
Class Fl^ 7 

Book_ /\^S -^gU- 

GopjTightN" , 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



• . THE . . 

iDlRONDACKS 

ILLUSTRATED. 



• • • CONTAINING • • • 

ESCRIPTION OF NOTABLE FEATURES OF THE REGION ; FORESTRY AND ITS 

FORESTS, THEIR CONDITION AND NEEDS ; HINTS CONCERNING FISH AND 

FISHING ; SUPPLIES AND GENERAL OUTFIT FOR CAMP AND TRAIL j 

COST AND MANNER OF REACHING THE VARIOUS RESORTS ; 

HOTEiS, WITH CAPACITY, PRICE OF BOARD, ETC.; TABLES 

OF ELEVATION AND DISTANCES ; MAPS, ETC., ETC. 

• • • BY ■ • . ^)^> 



S. R. STODDARD, 



AUTHOR OF 



TICONDEROGA," "LAKE GEORGE and LAKE CHAMPLAIN." 



TWENTY-THIRD EDITION. 
GLENS FALLS, N. Y. 



PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOrZ^/^^ 
Copyright, 1893, by S. R. Stoddard. . ^ 



5 



GREETING— 1893. 

Twenty years ago I made my first trip to the heart 
of the Adirondack Wilderness, covering in a series of 
loops its more noted sections and routes. The fol- 
lowing year was given in narrative form, the experi- 
ence and matter gathered in the round, and on this 
Narrative thread has been annually strung the 
changes of succeeding years. 

Changes? Wild grass grows on the old routes and 
the unknown places of then are now centres of a sum- 
mer population greater than the total of all Adiron- 
dack visitors of twenty years ago. 

So the old Narrative must go, and the space 
given to that which may be of more interest to the 
tourist generally, and all condensed into a more con- 
venient form. The " New Adirondacks" is the result. 
How do you like it? 

Railroads encircle the Adirondacks like the iron 
frame of a landing net, and from them lines penetrate 
the interior, crossing each other and branching in 
turn to reach important points, or losing themselves 
among the mountains or in the watery highways 
that are woven in a net-work all over the lake re- 
gion of the west. Let us consider the Wilderness as 
the face of a great clock with Mount Marcy the pivot 
on which the might}'- hands are turning. I have 
numbered the more important gathways to repre- 



vi GREETING — 1 893. 

sent the hours, according to position ; thus Platts- 
burgh fairly represents I o'clock, Port Kent II, 
Westport III, while the others follow in order as 

the hands go 
the familiar way 
around the dial. 
The several 
routes from im- 
portant points to 
Gateways will be 
found on pages 
236- 7-S. The 
route to i n- 
terior points is 
followed s e p a - 
rately from each 
Gateway in the 
following pages, 
for which see in- 
dex. The map 
on page 4 will give a clear idea of the location of the 
principal resorts. 

Hotels are referred to in special index (page X). 
For rates of board and particulars not found in the 
body of the book, see Appendix — indexed on page 
241. For mountains and table of elevations, see page 
XII. Lakes and ponds, altitude, page XI. Suggestions 
concerning camp and outfit will be found in Chapter 
II. For fishing and fishing outfit see Chapter XII. 
For particular points coiistilt the index. 




GREETING 1S93. 



The burning question of the hour is the preserva- 
tion of the forests — of great value as a whole — of vi- 
tal importance as regards the tributaries of the Hud- 
son River. Royal of birth though it be ; famed the 
norld o\er and beautiful be\ond compare, it is less 

known in its 
bnthplace than 
IS almost any 
other section of 
the wilderness. 
This region is 
threatened 
with destruc- 
tion. It should 
be under con- 
trol of the 
State. T.he 
giadual annual 
shrinkage in 
the water sup- 
ply of the Hud- 

[Light portion shows Hudson River drainage.] SOn, With itS 

sudden floods and as sudden drying-up of tributary 
streams, are warnings that should not be ignored. 
A Law should be enacted prohibiting the cutting of 
evergreen trees except with the approval of competent 
authority under the government, on all Adirondack 
lands lying i,8oo feet above tide. 




INDEX. 



GENERAL. 



Adirondacks p 

In General 

Advice 

Area 

Expenses 

HOW REACHFD FROM 

Bing'hamton 

Boston 

Montreal 

New York 

Niag-ara Falls 

Thousand Islands 

Washing'ton 

White Mountains 

Adirondack Leag-ue Club. 

Mountain Reserve 

Park 

Post-Office 

Ruined Village 

Sanitf\rium 

Advertisements, Index. 240- 

Appendix 

Arnold, Benedict 

Au Sable Chasm 

Au Sable River 

Au Sable Valley 

Bartlett Carry 

Battle of Plattsburgh 

Beaver Lake Country 

Bisby Club 

Bioomingdale 

Bog River Falls 

Brown, John 

Brown's, John, Grave 

Brown Tract 

Buntline, Ned 

Burlington 

Buttermilk Falls 

Catholic Summer School. . 

Cedar River 

Chateaugay Chasm 

Chestertown 

Childwold 

Child wold (Station) 

Clothing 

Cold River 

Crab Island 



Crown Point Ruins... 
Cumberland Head... 
Drowned Lands, The. 



PAGE 

. 29 



93 



Alvah 1Q7 



135 
37 
140 

228 
232 
233 
230 
232 
231 
232 



Dunninj 
Elizabethtown 

Essex 

Euba Dam 

Fishing 

Bait Fishing!. 

Buoy Fishing, 

Flies 

Lake Trout.., 

Tackle 

Trolling 

Fish, where found 234 

Forests, and Forestry. . 222 

Commission 220 

Destruction 225 

Natural Reservoirs 223 

Fort Frederick 31 

Fort Montgomery 59 

Fort Ticonderoga 26 

Gatevrays. 

1 Plattsburgh 60 

2 Port Kent 131 

3 Westport 135 

4 Port Henry 159 

5 Crown Point 159 

6 Ticonderoga 159 

7 Saratoga. . . 161 

8 Fonda 184 

9 Herkimer.. 211 

10 Lowville 217 

11 Carthage 218 

12 DeKalb Junction 219 

13 Potsdam 103 

14 Moira 98 

15 Malone 70 

16 Chateaugay 66 

Game La-ws 235 

General Divisions 3 

Guides Q 

Herkimer 211 

Hotels, Special Index., x 
Hunting 6 



PAGE 

Indian Carry 90 

Indian Pass 178 

Indian River 183 

Insect preparations 21 

Jav (Lower) 132 

jay (Upper) 132 

Keene Valley 140 

Guides 157 

Outfit, Camp 18 

Ladies'. ... 16 

Mens' 13 

Lakes, special Index.... xi 

Leavitt Stag^e Line 164 

Long- Lake Village 209 

Luzerne 161 

Lyon Mountain 62 

Malone 70 

Maps. 

Adirondack Park 220 

Adir(jnnack Wilderness. 4 

Au Sable Chasm 46 

Blue Mountain Lake 196 

Champlain, Lake 24 

Chateavjgay, Lake 62 

Cumberland Bay 57 

KHzabethtown.." 134 

Forked Lake 196 

Gateways 211 

Keene Valley 134 

Placid, Lake 107 

Raquette Lake iu6 

Saranac Lake (Lower.... 81 
Saranac Lake (Upper). .. 83 

Tupper Lake 04 

Marcy, I\It 130 

Marion River 194 

IMedicine Chest 21 

Mountains, index xii 

Ne-ha-sa-ne Park 

Newcoinb 

North Creek 1 74 

North Elba 106 

Old Forge 212 

Old Mountain Phelps 142 

Peasleville 133 

Phantom Falls 205 

Plattsburgh 57 



I Ponds, special index.... xi 

I Port Douglas 40 

I Port Henry 31 

I Port Kent 40 

Potsdam 102 

I Pottersville 164 

' Railroads. 

Ad'k & St. Lawrence 211 

All Sable Valley 132 

Carthage and Ad'k 218 

Central Vt 237 

Chateaugav. 60 

N. Y. C. & H. R 272 

Delaware & Hudson 54 

K., Au S. C. & L. C 40 

Northern Ad'k 98 

Saranac & Lake Placid,. 105 

Raquette Falls 91 

Raquette Lake 195 

Camps 202 

Raquette River 90 

Riverside 163 

Roaring Brook Falls 152 

Rock Dunder 38 



217 



Rogers' Station 

Rouse's Point 

Sageville 

Salmon River Valley 

Saranac Lake (village).. 
Schroon Lake (village).. 

Split Rock Falls 340 

Split Rock 36 

Sporting Outfit 22 

Stony Creek 90 

Sumner Park 204 

Sweeney Carry. 02 

Tahawds.. . 174 

Ticonderoga, Fort 27 

Tupper Lake (village) 97 

Valcour Island 55 

Vergennes 37 

Westport. 33) I ^5 

Whitehall 25 

Willsborough Point 37 

Wilmington Notch 133 

Wakelv Dam 185 

Woodhull Tract 213 



132 
59 
184 
133 

72 
69 



HOTELS. 

Adirondack Lodge 125 Leland House. 

Adirondack (North Creek) 174 
Ad irondack(Keene Valley) 144 

Algonquin 81 

American House 174 

Ames' Mountain View 122 

Ampersand 74 

Antlers 198 

Ayers' Hotel 71 

Baldwin Cottage 132 

Banner House 65 

Bay View House 40 

Berkeley House 75 

Blinn House 35 

lilue Mount n Lake House. 187 
Blue M't'n H. (Merwin's)., 189 
Brightside-on-Raquette. .. 202 

Burleigh House 28 

Cascade Lake House 123 

Castle Rustico 116 

Champlain, Hotel 5: 



Chester House 163 

Childwold Park Honse ico 

Coppins House 132 

Cranberry Lake House — 219 

Crystal Spring House 69 

Cumberland 58 

Estes House 144 

Flume Cottage 147 

Forest House 103 

Forge House 212 

Fort Ticonderoga Hotel.. 28 

Fouciuet House 58 

Fourth Lake House 215 

l--enton House 217 

Grand View House m 

Grove House 206 

Grove Point House 168 

Hemlocks 197 

Hiawatha 90 

Indian Point House 63 

Interlaken(Chateaugay L) 64 
Intel laken (Essex Co.). .. . 132 

Ladd's 71 

Lake House, Crown Pt 29 

Lake House, Schroon L — 172 

Lake House, Long L 209 

Lake Placid House 115 

Lake View House 41 



Lin wood Cottage 

Loon Lake House 

Mansion House 

Maple Grove Mt. House.. 

Maplewood Inn 

Meacham Lake House 

Merrill House 

Miller's Saranac Lake H,. 

Mirror Lake Hotel 

Moose River House 

M't'n View H., Essex Co. . 
M't'n View H., Franklin Co 

North River Hotel 

Ondawa 

Paul Smith's 

Pond View House 

Pottersville Hotel 

Prospect House 

Rainbow Inn 

Ralph's 

Raquette Falls Hotel 

Ray Brook House 

Redside Camp 

Richards House 

Riverside Inn 

Root's Hotel 

Ruisseaumont 

Rustic Lodge 

Sagamore 

Saranac Club House 

Saranac Inn . . 

Saranac Lake House 

St. Hubert's Cottage 

St. Hubert's Inn 

Stevens House 

Tahawus House « . 

Taylor House 

Tromblee's 

Tupper Lake House 

Under-Cliff 

Watch Rock Hotel 

Wawbeek Inn 

Wayside Inn 

Westport Inn 

White Face Inn 

Willey House 

Windsor, The 

W^itherill House 




LAKES AND PONDS. 



ELEV. PAGE 

Ampersand Pond 2,078 77 

Au>^ur Lake 132 

Au Sable Lake (L'w'r) 1,959 i55 
Au Sable Lake (Up'r) 1,093 i57 

Avalanche Lake 2,856 127 

Beaver Lake 1,435218 

Blue Mountain l.ake. .1,800 187 

Bonaparte 218 

Bog Lake 1,755 97 

Boreas Pond 2,046 139 

Calamity Pond 2,712 176 

Canada Lakes (West) 2,348 184 



.2,038 12'? 



Cascade Lakes. 

Catlin Lake 1,563 181 

Cedar Lakes 2,529 1S4 

Chain Lakes (Seven).. 183 

Champlain 99 23 

Chapel Pond ii55i 152 

Chateaugay Lake (L'r) 65 

Chateaugay Lake (U'r) 62 

Chazy Lake 1.500 61 

Clear Lake 2,159 '^5 

Colden, Lake 127 

Cranberry Lake i)54o 219 

Crooked L. (H'k'r Co)2,o22 

Eagle Lake i,8oo 192 

Elk Lake (Mud Pond). 1,981 158 

Forked Lake 

Forked Lake (Little).. 

Francis Lake 

Fulton Chain-First L. 
Fulton C'n-Eighth L. 

tieorge 34,^ i59 

Giant's Washbowl 2,233 ^33 

Harkness, Lake 

Henderson, Lake 1.874 17S 



i»753 204 
205 
1,457 2l8 
1,684 215 
1.80? 216 



KLEV. PAOK 

Indian Lake 1,705 183 

Ingraham Pond 71 

Jordan Lake 103 

Lewey Lake I1738 

I..ila, Lake , i»725 217 

Long Lake i)6i4 206 

Loon Lake (Fr'lin Co.) 66 

Luzerne Lake 162 

Massawepie Lake 99 

Meacham Lake 71 

Mirror Lake 1)856 106 

Moose Lake (Little).., 1, 78; 185 

Moose Lake (Big) 216 

Mud Lake 1,745 95 

Ne-ha-sa-ne Lake 1,704 217 

Paradox Lake 159 

Piseco Lake 185 

Placid, Lake 1,863 lo^ 

Pleasant, Lake 1,706 185 

Preston Ponds 2,206 178 

Ragged Lake 70 

Rainbow Lake 67 

Raquette Lake 1,774 195 

Raquette Pond 97 

St. Regis Lake I1623 70 

Sanford, Lake 1,800 175 

Saranac Lake (Low'r)i,539 81 
Saranac Lake (Mid'le)i,542 82 
Saranac Lake (,Upper)i,577 83 

Schroon Lake 830 165 

Stony Creek Ponds. . .1,642 90 

Tear of the Clouds 4,321 129 

Thirteenth Lake 1,953 183 

Tupper Lake (Big) .... 1,554 93 
Tupper Lake (Little). .1,728 07 
Utowana Lake 194 



MOUNTAINS. 
(Table of Elevations.) 



NAME. 

Amoersand 

Bartlett 

Basin 

Black 

Blue Mountain. 
Catamount Mt. 
Cobble Hill.... 

Colden 

Colvin 

Crane's 

Dix 

Giant 

Gothic 

Gray Peak 

Haystack 
Little Hayst'ck 
Hopkin's Peak. 

Hurricane 

Indian Face. .. 
Mount Jo 



ELEV. 


PAGE 


R.\NK 


.3i432 


77 


19 


31715 


156 




4<Q05 


ISO 


I 


2,661 


1.39 


2 


3,824 


190 


14 


3,128 






1,9^6 


139 




4i753 


120 




.4,142 


155 


13 


3,289 






4,916 


144 


16 


4.530 


152 




4.744 


156 


Is 


4,002 




18 


4,918 


156 


7 


4.766 






3,136 






3.763 


139 




2,536 


155 





NAMK. ELEV. : 

Lyon Mount'n... 3,809 

Macomb 4,371 

]\Iarcy(Tahawus)5,344 
Mclntire 5,' 



,684 
3,548 
3,758 
2,825 



-,6 



Nipple Top 
Noon-Mark 
North River 
Owl's Head. 
Redfield .. . 
Resagonia . . 

vSaddle 

vSt Regis .... 2,888 

Santanoni 4,644 

Seward 4,384 

Skylight 4,889 

Snowv 3,903 

Split Rock 

Tahawus 

Wallface 3,893 

Whileface 4,871 



61 
129 
126 
144 
141 



206 
158 
144 
36 
129 
179 




THE ADIRONDACKS 



CHAPTER I. 
In Genkral. 

ON \vint^s of thought swifter than the lightning's 
flash we sweep away across tlie drowsy earth, 
past smoke-polhited cities, sun-scorched meadows, 
burning plain and highways with their flaunting skirts 
of sand, nor rest until the fragrant odor of wild 
flowers and the dewy breath of forest trees conje like 
incense wafted to us from below. 

Come with me up into a high mountain. I cannot 
show you "all the kingdoms of the world," — but 
" the glory of them." Over a rippling ocean of for- 
ests first in long, swelling waves, now rising, now 
sinking down into deep hollows ; here in grand moun- 
tains, crested as with caps of foam, there tormented 
by counter currents into wildly dashing shapes, like 
ocean billows frozen by Divine command, their sum- 
mits glittering granite, their deep green troughs 
gleaming with threads of silver and bits of fallen sky. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Now the trees of the valley glide away behind us, 
now come dark spruce and pine and the sturdy balsam 
climbing the mountain-side, tall and graceful at first 
but as the mountains rise, growing smaller, gnarled 
and twisted, and scarce above the surface, sending 
their branches out close along the ground, their white 
tops bleached and ghastly, like dead roots of upturned 
trees ; now the hardy lichens ; now naked rock, and we 
stand on the wind-swept summit of " Tahawus," the 
cloud-piercer of the Indian. 

Around Tahawus cluster the other great mountains 
— east, west, north, south— limitless, numberless, a 
confused mass of peaks and ridges, crowding close 
up to the base of their chief, and receding in waves of 
green all down through the scale of color to its blue 
and purple edge. Pen can convey no idea of its sub- 
limity ; the pencil fails to even suggest the blended 
strength and delicacy of the scene. The rude laugh 
is hushed, the boisterous shout dies out on reverential 
lips, the body shrinks down feeling its own littleness, 
while the soul expands, and rising above the earth, 
claims kinship with its Creator, questioning not His 
existence. 
Westward from the mountains, in a broad semi- 
circle, at an average elevation of i,6oo feet 
above tide, is the Great Lake Region, 
where a multitude of lakes and ponds form 
the head-waters of streams that radiate 
to all points, finding their way south to 
the Hudson, or at the west and north into the great 




THE AKIKONDACKS. 3 

lakes and through the St. Lawrence into the sea. 
These western lakes and streams are so closely con- 
nected that almost every mile of that section may be 
traversed by boat, save for short carries from one 
water system into another, or to go around some rapid 
or waterfall. 

The term Adirondack, interpreted to mean " Bark- 
eater," was originally applied in derision by the In- 
dians of the south to tribes occupying the northern 
slope of the interior, and in time was used to desig- 
nate the mountains, until finally by common use it 
was extended to include the entire wilderness. The 
section is an irregular oval, covering about 90 miles 
east and west and a hundred or more north and south, 
with its eastern third cut off by Lake George and 
Lake Champlain. Out of this is to be taken a con- 
siderable section of cleared and cultivated land 
around the border and in old settled valle3^s, leaving 
an area of w^ilderness of between 7,000 to 8,000 square 
miles. In the interior are numerous small clearings 
amounting to considerable in the aggregate but, like 
the spots on the sun, small compared with the exist- 
ing wild section. 

The wilderness may be divided into three general 
divisions which, collectively, entertain the great bulk 
of visitors, namely the Lake Placid and the Saranac 
and St Regis waters of the northwest. The moun- 
tain region of Essex County which includes Eliza- 
bethtown and Keene Valley with entrance at West- 
port ; and the Blue Mountain, Raquette and Long 



^^^QW LOW eV tn^f ^^'^ 
^ _ , , ^ „ „ / , ^Ji^ V. A i\, ^ 'rS% ' ow 



DANNEMORA 



3(C0LT0« 












lOtii L. 



'^lim^ 









RAILROAD am; SI AGl-; 1U;UTES. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 5 

Lake waters of Hamilton County in the southwest. 
Each section while possessing something of the char- 
acteristics of the others, has its own special attractions, 
and while connected by natural highways over which 
the nomad often goes, still to a considerable extent, 
each preserves its own individuality, and is complete 
and sufficient unto itself. Smaller but notable are 
Childwold, Gale and Tupper Lake sections in St. 
Lawrence county and Fulton Chain and Beaver River 
in Herkimer county. 

Essex county is the most picturesque in high moun- 
tains and wild lakes, and is visited more than any 
other section by those who seek to delight the eye 
with beautiful scenes. The West is wildest in its 
tangle of woven lakes and streams that duplicate each 
other over and over again throughout its broad ex- 
panse. The North is the oldest, the best known and 
visited and is also the most fashionable. The South 
is the tamest and of least interest and enterprise. 

A pecuharityof the Adirondack region is its freedom 
from rough or vicious characters. Evil finds nothing 
congenial in its bright skies and pure atmosphere. 
Conventionalities that obtain at other resorts are not 
held binding here. The fact of actual presence is ac- 
cepted as guaranty of the possession of those mutual 
sympathies and qualifications which here, at least, 
make the whole world kin. Ladies travel without 
male escort from one end of the wilderness to the 
other, indeed, it is no uncommon thing for parties to 
make the totir of the woods, accompanied only by the 




5 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

necessary complement of guide to furnish motive 
power, spending day after day in their boat, and each 
night reaching one step farther in the extended sys- 
tem of hotels. 

Full dress is seldom seen, even at the most fashion- 
able resorts, and is exceeded in absurdity only by the 
conventional stage trapper, who occa- 
sionally bursts upon the astonished wild- 
erness in fringed buckskin, and is marked 
at once as a "fresh." Yotir right to 
enter the best society will not be ques 
tioned because of dress. Clothing ordi- 
narily worn is sufficient for all occasions, 
with perhaps the addition of a soft felt 
hat and roomy walking shoes or boots for boat or 
tramp. Camp and Sporting Outfit, clothing, supplies, 
etc. , are given in a special chapter, with various sug- 
gestions. 

Hunting is standard sport here and the great at- 
traction to a majority of Adirondack visitors. Game 
of the smaller variety such as partridges, squirrels, 
etc., can be found in the woods almost anywhere. 
Deer have increased in numbers within the past few 
years under the provisions of the law prohibiting 
their indiscriminate slaughter which the resident, from 
guide to hotel keeper, has learned was to his interest 
to see enforced. To the credit of the clubs, that get 
little but maledictions from the unattached sportsman 
generally for "fencing in " their land, be it said that 
these reservations under regulations which are held 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



binding on member and invited guest alike, are pro- 
lific nurseries for game that overflows into the sur- 
rounding forests and from which the casual sports- 
man derives unacknowledged benefit. The visitor 
should be lenient. Even the most bloated millionaire- 
club-member in existence has rights on this earth 
vvhich are entitled to thoughtful consideration. 

Trout are to be found in most Adirondack strearris, 
generally in proportion to the whipping they get al- 
though the fish seem to thrive in some sections better 

than in others, 
while a careful 
observance o f 
the law and 
j udicious re- 
st o c k i n g of 
streams has 
made certa in 
sections notable 
above others to 
lovers of the 
gentle art. 
Trout, their habits and peculiarities, with sug- 
gestions as to outfit, fishing, etc., is treated at length 
in a special chapter by A. N. Cheney, of Glens Falls, a 
recognized authority in the matter whereof he speaks. 
It gives, in readable shape, more solid information of 
use to the fisherman than a whole library of ordinary 
fishing romances of the day, with their sensations, 
impressions, tingles, thrills and frills. 




:he adirondacks. 



In the net-work of ways and their multitude of 
branches traversing the wilderness continuity of pro- 
gress may not be. A comprehensive glance will help 
in acquiring necessary details. Information gathered 
from all available sources, has been arranged in the 
following pages on a carefully considered system. 
Here is the key. As a whole the ways into the wilder- 
ness are considered under the head of "Gateways." 
(See index.) Following, each gateway is given sepa- 
rately, with lines leading to particular centres, with 
distances and fares to points named. 

Expenses cannot be fairly estimated, varying widely 
as they do with the habits and requirements of dif- 
ferent individuals. If you go in channels having 
public conveyances, traveling expenses may be fairly 
determined by referring to fares, etc. , found under 
their appropriate heading. If you go outside the 
public lines of travel you must have special convey- 
ance. If you travel by boat, or go into camp, you 
wdll require the service of a guide. 

Places of entertainment are scattered throughout 
the wilderness, ranging from the well appointed hotel 
to the log house of the interior and open camps where 
the guide is host and moves his whole establishment 
if necessary to suit his guests. The prices at the 
different houses range from one to four dollars a day 
and upward according to accommodations and service. 
Ordinarily the rates are very reasonable for standard 
accommodations, but you must not expect all the 
modern conveniences at a dollar a day. They can be 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 9 

had at many of the hotels, but it costs money to pro- 
vide them and the visitor must pay for it. When a 
hotel advertises board at so much "and upward" it 
means "and up- 







ward." Particulars 
concerning hotels, 
including price for 
board, accommoda- 
tions, etc., will be 
given in connection 
with the section 
where such hotels 
are located, unless for some reason particulars do not 
reach me in time for the annual revision. For names 
of hotels see special index. 

Guides ordinarily receive $3 per day, furnishing 
boat and necessary cooking and table utensils. In 
camp you furnish the supplies, the guide cooks and 
does other neces sary camp work. He rows and 
"backs" the boat over the carries where there are 
no other means provided ; (at carries where horses 
are kept the employer is expected to pay for trans- 
portation). One guide and boat is ordinarily suffi- 
• cient for two persons in traveling, but for independ- 
ence in fishing and hunting each sportsman should 
have his individual guide. If you employ a guide for 
any service at any hotel you are charged for his 
"keep" at one-half to two-thirds regular rates. 
There are two classes of guides, known respectively 
as "hotel" and " independent." The former are en- 




lO THE ADIRONDACKS. 

gaged for the season by hotel proprietors, who relet 
them to parties ; the latter must be dealt with per- 
sonally. There are good men in 
both classes, the nature of the 
surroundings usually determin- 
ing to which class they shall be- 
long, experience only can deter- 
mine their suitability for your 
peculiar wants. As a class they 
are a fine set of men. The best 
guides are often engaged for a 
year in advance, as some sportsmen would as soon 
think of going without his gun as without his favorite 
guide. 

If you go into camp and can afford the expense, 
take a trained cook along. Guides can as a rule, pre- 
pare an acceptable forest meal, and some are very 
skillful in that line, but the very qualities which con- 
tribute to make the successful guide — "the mighty 
hunter " — often renders him indifferent to the quality 
of his food, and incapable of understanding the crav- 
ings of a delicate appetite. At all events, carr}^ a 
cook book. Camp fare is apt to become monotonous 
after a time, and although familiar with a hundred 
dishes, when brought face to face with the appalling 
necessity of preparing a straight meal, your mind be- 
comes a blank and you drop weakly back to the same 
old stew of yesterday — and the day before — and life 
becomes a burden. You are presumably out for pleas- 
ure, do not, therefore, make severe labor of it. Have 




THK ADIRONUACKS. II 

paid help sufficient to do camp work, if, at any time, 
inclination tempt you to watch the zenith from some 
mossy vantage ground, or to drift 
idly among the still waters, absorb- '^••> 

ing with newly awakened instincts 
the subtle lessons 
taught by nature. 
The glor i o u s 1 y 
healthful a i r o f 
the wild e r n e s s 
will unquestion- 

ably give new life it\'^il^^*^l, . ■ ^ ^^ 

and vigor, but it ' "^' '^^'^"V/y///^^ 

labors at a disadvantage, if your bed of boughs afford 
no rest and sleep comes only with complete exhaus- 
tion, as often happens in the first few nights in camp. 
At such times the early morning finds you pitably 
weak and languid instead of refreshed and ready to 
move simply because motion is a relief to the poor 
bruised body and aching joints. "Roughing it" is 
grand in theory, and sounds well in after history, but 
is bad in practice and often impedes if it does not en- 
tirely defeat the object for which it is undertaken. 

Parties have "done" the Adirondacks with map, 
book and compass, without the aid of a regular guide ; 
but the way is full of hardships for such that may be 
avoided by those accustomed to the country, while if 
comfort, distance, and time lost in out-of-the-way 
places are taken into consideration such a course is 
attended with but little economv. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 




^^h^g^^ 



Bear in mind that this book is designed to give its 
readers in convenient shape information concerning 
points and places, roads and regions that can be 
visited over public ways ; matters of general interest 
to the ninety-and-nine, with hints and suggestions of 
the deeper mysteries of camp and trail to the hun- 
dredth one, that may pilot him to points w^here the 
intelligent guide becomes a necessity, and beyond 
■_ which, direc- 

■'■' ^^"- tion in b o o k 
form w o u 1 d 
confuse, rathei 
than instruct. 
For the sake 
of clearness, 
therefore, I Ijave omitted description of the multitude 
of smaller ponds, streams and trails which duplicate 
each other in many places, which no one should at- 
tempt to follow without an experienced guide. To 
those who would have a comprehensive idea of the 
whole region, it is hoped the map, designed to supple- 
ment the information contained herein, will be a 
welcome companion until it can be safely laid aside 
for the more specific knowledge of the guide, whose 
office neither book nor map can ever fill. 

A large portion of the great Adirondack region has 
never been surveyed with chain and rod, but the 
rapid development of portions and the growing im- 
portance of the whole as a summer resort seem to call 
for a map made specially to meet the requirements 
of tourist and sportsman. 



Til!-, ADIRONDAC'KS. I3 

In the construction of this map all available sources 
of information have been brought into requisition. 
Important points outside the wilderness proper were 
determined in accordance with official surve^-s, and 
connected with the mountains of the interior, whose 
principal peaks were accurately located by triangula- 
tion made expressly for this work. Access was had 
to important surveys made under State patronage and 
by private parties. In addition to this absolutely reli- 
able material, drawings on an extended scale of small 
sections, covering in the aggregate the entire region, 
were sent in duplicate to men familiar with the va- 
rious localities for correction, and were made as full 
and complete as possible — careful attention being 
given to proportion and distance — with wild trails, 
carries, ponds and streams. Reduced to an uniform 
scale by photography, the result, it is believed, ap- 
proaches perfection as nearly as can be, short of 
actual trigonometrical survey. It gives altitudes, the 
location of all hotels and principal .camps, with roads 
leading thereto ; shows distance in figures on roads, 
trails and streams, and indicates also the nature of 
the latter in important instances. All roads within 
its limits are carefully laid down, the leading ones 
distinguished from those less important by being in 
solid black line, and indicating by their number or 
absence, the cultivated or wilderness nature of that 
region. The map was completed in 1S79 and is issued 
annually revised and corrected to date to keep pace 
with changes of road and trail, camp and hotel in this 
rapidly changing section. 



M 



CHAPTER II. 
Outfit, Camp, Supplies, Suggestions, Etc. 

AKE out a complete list of articles that are con- 
sidered necessary or desirable in the proposed 
trip, each member for himself, in advance of the time 
of departure, then in committee of the whole decide 
on what is really necessary or suitable, taking into 
consideration the nature of the trip and means of 
reaching the appointed camping ground. If it be 
not over-difficult of access, carry anything which 
will contribute to your reasonable comfort, in the 
way of blankets, clothing, etc. 

For camp outfit and woods life the following is 
recommended. A complete change of underclothing ; 
two pairs of serviceable socks, but slightly heavier 
than 3'ou habitually wear at the season (soft wool is 
preferable) ; pair colored flannel shirts with wide col- 
lars, confined at the throat by a substantial silk hand- 
kerchief. (If the unaccustomed material chafes the 
neck the shirts may be put on outside the garment 
ordinarily worn in which case linen collars must not 
be forgotten.) The trowsers and vest should be of 
some strong woolen goods, the coat the same, cut 
rather short and to button close up to the neck. Have 
pockets, ample and numerous, with covers ; you will 
find use for them. Wear a soft felt hat 'with a 
reasonably wide brim. (By grasping it in a manner 
easily learned the rim forms a convenient drinking 
cup.) Do not commit the too common error of pro- 
curing new shoes or boots for the occasion. A pair 
of laced shoes, roomy, but not too loose, well broken 
to the foot, with broad soles and rather low heels, is 
best. The uppers should be of rather light grained 









A POSSIBILITY. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 5 

kip or water-proof leather. Have leather or canvas 
leggings, strapped under the instep and buttoning, or 
to lace at the side well up toward the knee. Boots 
may be used in place of shoes and leggings, if pre- 
ferred, but the evidence is largely in favor of the shoe. 
It is well to have a duplicate pair for alternates in 

w e t weather, 
Rubber boots, 
although con- 
V e n i e n t at 
times, are not 
suitable for 
general wear 
or for travel- 
ing. A light 
overcoat will 
be found very 
comfortable at 
times. Among 
the necessaries 
should be included rubber coat and overalls for use in 
rainy weather, for the best fishing is often found under 
dripping clouds. Have also a light rubber blanket 
to throw over the knees and feet when in boat, or 
to protect you, in sleeping, from moisture below or 
above. For lounging in camp take a pair of common 
canvas slippers and sew on them cloth tops to come 
up around the ankle, and tie outside the trowsers. 
For sleeping at night — if you have moral courage 
sufficient to stand before your fellows in such a gear — 
a single garment of any suitable material — (calico if 
)'ou like) — combining shirt, drawers and stockings 
without opening save the necessary one of entrance 
at the top, to button close about the neck, will be 
found wonderfully comforting while wandering ants 
and inquisitive though harmless bugs mav be mak- 
ing life miserable for those with only the ordinary 



i6 



TlIK ADIKONDACKS. 



garments. A further addition may be made in shape 
of a friar's hood attached at back of neck. A light 
cloth or silk cap will be found comfortable for night 
use if you don't take kindly to the above. 

Ladies' outfit contemplates a subject in which I 
would not presume to dictate ; I have learned better. 
I humbly submit, however, that it is your first duty 
to make yourself as attractive as possible, subject only 
to the requirements of place and season. I would 
suggest that, whatever may be allowable in the way 
of " fine " dressing, itis not con- ~ 

sidered necessary, or even in 
good taste. Often the sweetest 
girls that ever brightened the 
wilderness with their presence 
reign queens of the evening in 
the same bewitching costume in 
which they boated and climbed 
the mountains in the early morn- 
ing. Consult some lady friend 
who has spent a season in the 
woods as to what constitutes a 
suitable outfit. In absence of other infor- 
mation the following is suggested for boat, 
camp and tramp. . Underclothing, such as 
experience has shown best suited to the sea- 
son and your individual comfort, giving 
fine flannel the preference in all but the very warmest 
weather. Underskirts should generally be of dark 
flannel, although, if much walking is to be done, one 
of dark cotton will be found an agreeable substitute 
as less clinging than woolen. A becoming dress may 
be made of blue or gray ilannel or ladies' cloth. It 
may be pleated back and front, gathered at the 
waist, or fitting loosely to the form, but should in any 
case allow perfect freedom in the use of the arms. 
The skirt should be not overfull, and cut a finger 




HK ADIRONDACKS, 17 



shorter than the ordnary walking dress. Trim but 
little in shades of same color as body ; a cord at 
wrist collar and waist-band, with a knot of ribbon 
or a wild flower at the throat, is sufficient. A dainty 
bit of ruffling or old lace about the neck transforms 
the morning into an evening toilet. Wear a soft felt 
hat with wide brim ; trim with forest leaves. \\ ear 
a ladv's hat, if thev differ from a man s Don t 
ape masculinitv in dress. The average Adirondack 
sportsman does not admire it, although, if confronted 
bv the horrid fact he is often too much of a gentle- 
man to tell the truth. Wear dark serviceable hose 
and substantial roomv Balmoral boots, with broad 
soles and low, broad heels. Wear Lisle thread, cotton 
or doeskin gloves. They may be made with long 
wristlets to button or tie outside the dress sleeve, 
too-uard against possible attack of black fly or mos- 
quito. A chatelaine belt and pocket, with tin drmk- 
ino- cup, etc. , is convenient. A light sun umbrella of 
thS walking-stick pattern is a comfort in ram or shme. 
A shawl will often be found acceptable of an evening 
foUowing the warmest of days. Carry a rubber or 
waterproof circular with hood, a pair of light rubber 
overshoes and a piece of light rubber cloth to throw 
over the lap and feet if surprised m a boat by one ot 
those fast-moving Adirondack showers. 

In rough weather sit or lie low m the boat ; 7iever 
at such times, grasp the sides to support yourself .A 
skillful boatman will manage m safety one of those 
lio-ht Adirondack shells in the roughest of water, it 
allowed entire control of boat and load. Go fearlessly 
into the woods. It is stated on the highest authority 
that not a noxious plant or venomous serpent exists 
in the Adirondacks. . 

In selecting a camping place during ^^arm weather, 
choose an island or an exposed pomt f ree from under- 
brash where the wind will, to a great extent, free you 



i8 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



from the mosquito and fly. In cool weather, it is 
needless to say, choose the thicket ; in either case 
remember that a cold spring or brook and material 
for the camp-fire conveniently near adds very much 
to your comfort. A bar'k or bough camp will do in 
absence of anything better, but is nothing like as 
comfortable or convenient as a tent. An "A" tent 
seven by eight feet on the ground, affords comfort- 
able sleepmg room for four, and on occasion five or even 
SIX A rope, passing through lengthwise at the top 
and out at the ends, takes the place cf ridge pole 
and may be fastened to convenient trees or over 
crotched sticks cut the proper height, and tied to 

stakes. The ma- 
terial should be 
of cotton (water 
and mildew- 
proof), and com- 
plete, need not 
weigh more than 
nine to twelve 
poun ds. In 
pitching the 
tent, if on a side 
hill, dig a " A " 
shaped trench to 
lead running wa- 
ter on either 
siae ; if on the level, ditch all around. A wall tent 
is better than a circular or an " A " tent. If along 
stay is anticipated, it pays to build log sides on which 
to mount the tent, and cover with a "fly " to insure 
certain protection from rain. A sheet-iron camp- 
stove can be procured of the dealers, or may be easily 
made to answer every purpose, and pays if your stay 
in one place be long enough to warrant the trouble of 
transportation. In maicing your bed of boughs, re- 




THE ADIRONDACKS. ig 

member that solid wood, if fitted to the form, is as 
comfortable as a bed of down. Apply the fact by 
burrowing or hollowing out cavities to fit the project- 
ing points of hip and shoulder. Cover the boughs 
with a rubber blanket, in addition to which each mem- 
ber of the party should have a pair of heavy woolen 
blankets. A small bag, to be filled with leaves or 
moss is an improvement on a pair of boots when used 
as a pillow, but not all that nature craves ; and at 
the risk of exciting ridicule — from idiots — I am free 
to recommend a small, well-filled feather pillow. It 
pays for itself in a single night's use. A few yards 
of mosquito netting drawn across the front of the 
tent after a good smudge is a luxury which declares 
a big diurnal dividend. For long, forced marches, a 
hammock made of cotton duck with a cover of the 
same, but somewhat shorter, buttoned over at each 
side, and forming a sort of pocket, is, with the addi- 
tion of rubber blanket, bed and tent combined. A 
little ingenuity will suggest manner of arranging 
hoops over the face to c<jver with canvass or mosquito 
netting, as circumstances may require. 

Don't expect your guide to double 
carries habitually, rather reduce your 
baggage or get extra packmen for its 
transportation — or carry k_a part of the 
" duffle" yourself. 

A champaigne basket, covered with 
waterproof cloth and provided with 
shoulder loops for carrying, makes an 
admirable pack basket. A rubber, or 
waterproof bag, or an ordinary two- 
bushel grain bag, with carrying loops 
of webbing, may be used for extra cloth- 
ing, blankets, etc. Let your load rest well down on 
the back to carry. 

The camp kit may consist of a long-handled frying 




20 THE AniRONDACKS. 

pan, a deep stew pan with a cover, a nest of three or 
four covered tm pails, for water, tea, coffee, etc pint 
tm cups, tm plates, a wire toaster of the gridiron pat- 
tern, a ladle or large iron spoon, table and teaspoons 
knives and forks, and last but not least, soap dish 
cloths and towels. 

Carry a pocket compass with vou at all times— the 
best woodsmen are often temporarily at fault An 
ordinary lantern for camp use, candles, matches (a few 
wind-proof and water-proof), towels, tooth "brush 
comb, pocket mirror, pans, needles and thread a few 
extra buttons to match those M^orn, oil or tallow for 
your boots stamped envelopes, light hunting knife in 
sheath, light axe in sheath. Carry a supply of li^ht 
reading of the convenient Franklin Square or Lake- 
side pattern. Take no large boxes with sharp corners 
nor any article too heavy or unwieldy for one man to 
handle. 

Camp supplies may be had from hotels o-enerallv 
but many prefer to carry their own. Veterans need 
no advice, but to the novice the following sugo-estions 
are made. First, consult your cook book. See what 
IS needed m the preparation of proposed dishes and 
provide accordingly. The following list contains the 
staple articles : Wheat, Graham flour, corn and 
oat meal, beans, Boston and soda crackers, lemon 
biscuit, baking powder, self-raising flour, maple sugar 
loaf sugar, tea, coffee, condensed milk, bottled horse- 
radish, mustard, vinegar, pepper and salt in boxes 
with perforated covers, dried fruit, canned fruit, but- 
ter (packed m salt and enclosed in hermetically sealed 
cans, which can be anchored in spring holes or under 
cold runnmg water.) Bacon is extremely nice when 
sweet, as is also pork, unpoetical but palatable, and 
on occasion taking place of butter and all the 
seasonings. _ Dried beef is an important item • 
jerked venison, one of the best things imaginable 



THE ADIROXDACKS. 21 

to carry when setting out for a tramp ; (ask your guide 
to show you how it is prepared.) For relishes — 
shades of mighty trout and speckled beauties forgive 
us — take a box of red herring. Bermuda onions fill 
an aching void which nothing else can fill. Canned 
beef, pork and beans, corn, tomatoes, condensed soup, 
etc. , may be added. Fresh vegetables and potatoes 
can be had from the hotels. Carry no liquor ; if wet 
and cold, Jamaica ginger has all the heating proper- 
ties of whisky ; while strong black coffee is a better 
stimulant, with none of the evil ef- 
fects following. 

The Medicine Chest need not be 
extensive. It should, however, con- 
tain cathartic pills and a cholera 
medicine of some kind ; a small 
bottle of collodion (composed of 
equal parts of alcohol and either, 
with gun-cotton added) about the 
consistency of heavy varnish ; (applied to burns and 
small wounds, this collodion forms an artificial skin, 
impervious alike to air and water) ; ammonia (to allay 
irritation arising from bites of insects) ; cold cream or 
glycerine (for chapped face or hands) ; court-plaster, 
seidlitz powders, ointment and adhesive plasters, lint 
and bandages, to use in case of emergency. To stop 
the flow of blood from wounds, bind on equal parts 
of flour and common salt ; for burns, apply wheat 
flour or collodion. 

Insect preparation may be procured of the drug- 
gist, or compounded by 3'ourself. The most conven- 
ient, and effective perhaps as any, is six parts of mut- 
ton tallow to one of oil of pennyroyal, with a little 
camphor added. Tar ointment in the proportion of 
two ounces of sweet oil and one of oil of tar is good. 
("A coating of the grease from ham rinds, well 
rubbed on, is the best yet known," says George K. 




22 THE ADIROXDACKS. 

Holmes, of Great Barrington, Mass.) Anoint ex- 
posed portions of the person with any of the above 
then stand back and mark the frenzy of the baffled 
punkey. 

Do not rely on what books tell you about sporting 
outfit. If you know nothing about the subject place 
yourself under the direction of some one who does, and 
trust him until you can judge for yourself. The most 
enticing of fancy flies in the hands of a greenhorn 
will not yield much sport— except to outsiders— and 
the grandest achievement in modern iirearms re- 
quires some 



skill m using. 
If you have the 
requisite skill, 
carry a rifle ; if 
not, a fowling- 
piece is better. 
For light game, 
birds, etc., 
there is per- 
haps no more 
convenient o r 
serviceable arm 
to carry into 

camp than the "pocket" rifle, manufactured by the 
J. Stevens Arms and Tool Company of Chicopee 
Falls, Mass. A 12 to 15-inch barrel, 32-calibre is 
recommended. The weight is less than three pounds. 
A shot-gun barrel is also made to fit the same frame 
so that either may be used at will. 

Are you artistic ? Carry a camera of the Kodak 
pattern or with small plate. A plate large enough to 
make a lantern slide yields a larger percentage of com- 
fort compared with trouble than any other size made 




CHAPTER III. 

Lake Champlain and the Eastern Border 
Resorts 

SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN, a Frenchman, was the 
first white man known to have seen the Adiron- 
dacks when, in 1609, he accompanied a band of Indians 
from the St. Lawrence on an expedition against their 
southern enemies, and as graphically told by the ad- 
venturer himself ' ' encountered a war party of the 
Iroquois on the 29th of the month, about ten o'clock 
at night, at the point of a cape which puts out into the 
lake on the west side." A battle ensued in which 
Champlain astonished the enemy and proved the su- 
periority of fire-arms over savage spear and arrow. 
This happened the same year that Hendrick Hudson 
sailed up the river that now bears his name, and 
eleven years before the pilgrims landed on Plymouth 
Rock. Champlain wrote an account of the affair, call- 
ing the sheet of water explored by his own name — 
Lake Champlain. It may be worthy of note that 
exactly two centuries after Champlain' s passage in a 
canoe, and one'year after Fulton's steamboat went up 
the Hudson, the "first steamboat was launched on Lake 
Champlain. 

Lake Cbamplain is ver>" like a long, slim radish 
in shape, with long roots and outbranching river 
fibers. Whitehall is at the little (south) end of the 
radish ; at Burlington it is quite a respectable vege- 
table ; then come blotches of rock and islands, and 
beyond that, the leaves, spreading out on either side 
and toward the North overlapping the Canada line. 

On the east is Vermont, sweeping away in a broad, 
23 



24 



THE ADIROXI>ACKS. 



cnltivated plain that gradually ascends to the ridges 
of the Green Mountains. Along the southern and 
central portion of the lake the rocky, western shores 
come abruptly to the water's edge. Backward rising 
ridge on ridge, the highest, misty Math distance ar! 
the Adirondack mountains. Here and there are little 

bits of cultivated 
land and breaks in 
the mountains that 
are the gateways to 
the wilderness. "^Far- 
ther north the moun- 
tains fall away from 
the lake and a level, 
well-cultivated coun- 
try presents itself. 

The distance from 
Whitehall to Fort 
Montgomery, accord- 
ing to the United 
States coast survey, 
is 107X miles. Its 
greatest width, 
which is near the 
outlet of Ausable 
river, is i2ig miles. 
Measuring north 
into Missisquoi bay 
on the east side, 
(which extends down 
into Canada, and is 
separated from the 



f 0USESP01NT( 



PqATTSBURC 
BLUFF PT.c 

fo[?TJACKSo8l 
PORT KENT' 



PORTKENR> 
FTFREDERlCt 
ICROWN P0IK1 



^MAqUAM 
?STALBANS B. 



^oBURUMGTON 



^CEDAR BEACH 



iiCROVVN PT RUINS 



niCOKDEROGAlo'-Af^f^ABEES POIN^ 



MAP OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN 

Showing Steamboat Route. ..^......c:^ x.oni Lue 

outlet by Alburgh Tongue), the extreme length 01 
the lake is about iiS miles. Its elevation above tide 
IS 99 teet. Its greatest depth (at a point i}^ miles 
southeast of Essex landing) 399 feet. 

The principal islands are near the north end. The 
two largest are known respectively as North and South 



THE ADIRONUACKS. 25 

Hero, and collectively as Grand Isle, the two forming 
a county of Vermont. 

■Whitehall, at the head of Lake Champlain, is 
219 miles north of New York, and 78 from Albany. 




The *'D. & H/' Railroad extending along the 
west shore of Lake Champlain, is a link in the air line 
between New York and Montreal, and the main arter}^ 
of travel between the two great cities At various 
points, rail or stage routes diverge, leading into the 
wilderness. 

Steamboats, in which the traveling public may 
have an interest, belong to the Champlain Transporta- 
tion Company of which Captain George Rushlow is 
General ]\lanager, with office at Burlington, Vt. 

Steamer Vermont, Captain B. J. Holt, is a 
graceful vessel, designed specially for pleasure travel. 
It leaves Plattsburg at 7 a. m. , touches at intermediate 
landings and reaches Fort Ticonderoga about noon. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 27 

connecting there with trains for the south and for the 
steamer oil Lake George. Returning over the same 
route reaches Plattsburgh about 7 p. m. (See map 
page 24 ) Steamboat and railroad tickets are inter- 
changeable between Ticonderoga and Plattsburgh. 

Steamer Cnateaugay, Captam Baldwin leaves 
Westport at 7 a. m. daily, Sundays excepted, and 
touching at points (see map), reaches North Hero at 
12:15 ; returning, touches as above, and arrives at 

Fort'Ticonderoga* is 24 miles from Whitehall 
on a bold promontory between the outlet ot Lake 
Georo-e and the waters of Lake Champlain. Here 
were enacted the principal events in the play of the 
Lake where savage tribes contended for the country 
on e .her hand, and three great nations struggled for 
the prize of a continent. Here precious blood flowed 
Hke water for it was the key to the " gate of the coun- 
try " and by its position elected to become historic 
ground The name is the composite of over a dozen 
different attempts to convey in English the Indian 
sound of Tienderoga, Cheonderoga, or as we have it 
now—" Ticonderoga"— meaning the coming together 
or meeting of waters. . , , , . -u 

The old batterv on the bluff is said to have been the 
original Carillor.' built by the French in 1755. Back 
on the higher grov.-nd are the barrack walls, trenches, 
two bastions, and the best preserved portion ot the 
ruins— a bomb-proofroom, which some authorities say 
was the magazine, while others contend that it was the 
humble but equally necessary bakery. On the east, 
bv the side of the road, is the old fort well. Leading 
from the southeast corner of the parade toward this, 

^Entassnnt. For more extended description, and histori- 
cal matter see "LAKE GEORGE & Lakb; Champlain," Similar 
to this volume in price and size, and contammg a large map 
of the lakes. 



28 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



is the covered way, through which Ethan Allen went 
in the gray of the morning, in 1775. On the west is 
Mount Deliance. Between it and the fort the outlet 
of Lake George enters Lake Champlain. At the 
southeast, the lake is 
narrowed down by ^^<;:^^^^^^iGOND£i 
the near approach ■'<^<^y<^'-^ „„„„„„,,. 
of Mount Inde 
p e n d e n c 
which was 
also forti- 
fied while 
St. Claire 
lield coni- 
m a n d ; 
between 
the two 
points 
ran the 
chain, or 
fioat i n g, 
bridge. 
The lake 
here turns 
toward the 
north, thus ^ 
ing three sides of 

the promontory. _^.^^_„_ 

^ ^?^^^ accommodations may be found in the old 
i^ ort Ticonderoga Hotel in the locust grove east of 
the rmns at a moderate price. The Burleigh House 
at the village ot Ticonderoga, two miles west on the 
road to Lake George, is a house with modern im- 
pro^^ments and excellent fare. From Ticonderoga 
north the traveler can go by steamer leaving about 
1 :3o r. M., and touching at lake ports or bv train along 
the west shore, reaching Plattsburgh at night 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 29 

Crown Point is 1 1 miles north of Ticonderoga. 
Here are the furnaces of the Crown Point Iron Com- 
pany, and the terminus of a 
narrow-gauge railway, which 
extends back 13 miles to iron 
mines at Hammondville, 
1,300 feet above the lake. 

The Lake House is on a 
point north of the steamboat 
landing. M. Gilligan, propri- 
etor. Rates, $2 per day ; $8 to 
$12 per week. Free convey- 
ance to boats and trains. 
There are excellent roads for riding or driving and 
fine fishing, either in the lake or up the willowy creek 
that enters near by — delightful for rowing and a fa- 
vorite haunt of tlie voracious pickerel. The hotel 
sets a most wholesome table and is the hotel to be 
preferred here. 

Crown Point Ruins are six miles north of Crown 
Point landing. The lake is here narrowed down by 





APPROACHING CROWN POINT RUINS FROM THE SOUTH. 

1 Crown Point Light House ; 2 Port Henry ; 3 Chimney Point. 

the land extending from the west on which the imins 
stand, its easternmost point marked by a stone light- 
house. Chimney Point approaches from the east side. 
Beyond the light-house, at the narrowest place in the 
passage, are the scarcely visible remains of Fort St. 
Frederick, built by the French in 1731. Crown Point 



^^s^^fM , /^ ^. 




Fort Standing over toward the west was commenced 
by Amherst in 1759, and completed at an expense of 
o er ten milHon dollars. The extensive earth-works, 
and the walls of the barracks, still in a good state of 
p. eservation, 
indicate the 
strength and 
extent of the 
fortification— 
from which, 
however, n o 
gun was ever 
fired at an 
a p proaching 
foe. Dr. Bix- 
by designates 
the shores of 
the peninsula 
west of the 
ruins as the 
probable site 
of C h a m - 
plain's battle 
with the Iro- 
quois in 1609. 

Fort Frederick (landing) is just north of the 
light-house. A board walk extends from the dock 
back to the ruins. Refreshment rooms, a public pa- 
vilion, etc., have been built here by the Champlain 
Transportation Company, for accommodation and en- 
tertainment of excursion parties. 

Port Henry, two miles northwest of Crown Point 
Ruins, is exceedingly picturesque, with a number of 
elegant private residences, occupied by the iron mag- 
nates of that section. The Lake Champlain and Mo- 
riah R. R. is seven miles long, extending from Port 
Henry to the ore beds at Mineville, 1,300 feet above. 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 



The grade at one point is 256I2 feet to the mile. The 
average is 211 feet. It contains three " Y's," where 
the nature of the ascent renders a curve impracti- 
cable. Mineville is the centre of the mining opera- 
tions of the region, and is a wonderful revelation to 
the novice in mining scenes. 

The Chever Ore Bed is two miles north of Port 
Henry, near the lake shore. 

The Y. M. C. A. of Albany has a small camp on 
No-Man's Island about a mile south of the Barber 
Point Light House — the summer rendezvous of a 
large number of Association men and boys, who 
" rough it " in the most approved style under the su- 
pervision of the General Secretary. They are a jolly 
lot, and welcome visitors with right good will. 

Westport is a pretty little village, on a deep bay, 

setting into the 
western shore, 50 
miles north of 
Whitehall. It is the 
natural gateway 
into the mountains 
via Elizabethtown 
and Keene Valley 
(see index), and 
possesses a 1 1 r a c - 
tions of its own that 
recommend it 
strongly to the 
summer visitor. 

The Westport 
Inn stands on the 
brow of an ab- 
rupt eminence a hundred feet above the lake and 
overlooks a tennis lawn shaded by fine elms, the 
picturesque steamboat landing, the great sweeping 
amphitheatre of hillside leading away to right and 




3-1 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 




left, the circling shore of the bay and the beautiful 
chain of the Green Mountains across in A^ermont. 
The house has broad piazzas and is neat and well 
furnished from basement to belvedere. It has cozy 
parlors and dining-room, with large open fire-places. 
The table is superior and the service most efficient. 
There are bath rooms and perfect drainage. Water 
.comes from a wonderful mountain spring 500 feet 

a l3 o V e the 
lake. A 
num b e r of 
detached 
cottages 
add to the 
attractio n s, 
furnish i n g 
altogether 
a c c o m m o- 
dations f o r 

150 guests. A livery stable under the patronage of 
the house in combination with picturesque drives of- 
fer amusement in variety. If this is not enough, good 
boating and fishing facihties and bathmg places 
with fine bottom, and convenient bath houses, are 
here. A circulating hbrarv. Post Office and tele- 
graph office are near by. Mrs. O. C. Darnell, assisted 
by Mrs. H. C. Lyon, is in management. Rates $3 to 
$4 per day. By the week from $10 to $21. Open 
May m. , .1 

Ricliards House, is situated at the northern 
border of the village overlooking the picturesque 
shore that circles toward the east. M. A. Clarke, 
proprietor. Post-office address, Westport, capacity 75, 
rates $2 per day, $8 to $12 per week. Free bus to and 
from boats and trains, open all the year. The house 
stands on high ground ; its immediate surround- 
ings are pleasant, the village street leading away 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 35 

down into the open country at the north, picturesque. 
It was of old a noted hostelry in this section. It was 
later remodeled to keep pace with the requirements of 
later times and is inviting and homelike. A large 
annex, designed more especially for the accommoda- 
tion of summer visitors stands close by, the two con- 
nected by a platform, an extension of the piazza which 
continues along both buildings giving 150 feet of 
covered promenade. This newer building contams 
desirable sleeping quarters for those who may wish 
to withdraw from the bustle of the hotel, which is a 
point that prospective guests may think worth con- 
sidering in arranging for accommodations. The main 
part of the hotel is kept open during winter, afford- 
ing desirable quarters for commercial travel which 
constitutes so large a share of the winter business of 
northern hotels. The proprietor is one of the most 
genial fellows, obliging and pleasant under the most 
trying circumstances. The hotel livery furnishes 
light or heavy mountain rigs suitable for long drives. 
Those who contemplate a trip into the woods from 
this direction are advised to see Mr. Clark and ar- 
range for transportation. It is possible more style 
may be found in fancy livery establishments, but 
"handsome is as handsome does " and the amount 
of "go" developed by the Richards House stock has 
made it notable among long distance drivers. 

The Gibbs House is near the Richards. N. J. 
Gibbs, proprietor. Capacity 40. Rates $2 per day ; 
$8 to $14 per week. Open all the 3^ear. 

The Bhnn House, at the depot, affords accommo- 
dations for 30. Rates $2 per day ; $8 to $10 per week. 
The " Water Lily," a small propeller, runs from 
Westport to Vergennes daily, on arrival of the steamer 
Vermont from the south, returning in the morning to 
connect with the south bound boat. The Water Lily 
is notable among steamboats as having a woman at 



36 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



the wheel, in the person of Mrs. Captain Daniels, 
Avho is said to be the tirst and only regularly licensed 
woman pilot in the United States. 

Calamity Point is about two miles north of 
AVestport. Here the steamer Champlain was wrecked 
in 1875 while running north on her regular night trip. 
The immediate cause of the disaster has never been 
explained, as the night was no more than ordinarily 
dark, but since that time, day or night, when running, 
the pilot-houses of the sister boats invariably contain 
two competent men. Captain Rushlow, now general 
manager, was then in command of the Champlain, 
and it was due to his cool self-possession that no panic 
ensued to lead to loss of life. 
1 2 3 



^^^2 



"-^^ 



SPLIT ROCK FROM THE NORTH. 

I Grand View Mt., Vt.; 2 Split Rock Light; 3 Split Rock. 

Split Rock Mountain extends along the west 

shore, terminating in a sharp point 8 miles north of 
Westport. Barn Rock (a corruption probably of Bar- 
ren Rock) shows the upturned edges of strata lying at 
a sharp angle ^vith the surface in a bold point enclos- 
ing a deep harbor. " The Palisades," a little way 
north, are grand perpendicular cliffs. Rock Harbor, 
a mile further north, shows an "effort," where Goth- 
am's one time Boss, Tweed, tried his hand at digging 
ore. Grog Harbor — a charming little cove despite 
its name — is near the northern end of the mountain. 
Split Rock is at the northern termination of the 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 37 

mountain bearing the same name. In the uncertain 
records of old Indian treaties, it is claimed that this 
rock marked the boundary line between the tribes of 
the St. Lawrence and those of the Mohawk Valley. 

Otter Creek enters the lake from the east some- 
thing over five miles north of Westport. This is the 
longest river in Vermont and is navigable to Vergen- 
nes whose "Spires maybe seen some distance inland. 
Fort Cassin stood at the mouth of Otter Creek. Bits 
of the ruins are still visible. Within the creek a portion 
of the American squadron was fitted out in 1S14, 
which, under Commodore McDonough defeated the 
British Commodore Downie, at Plat'tsburgh, in Sep- 
tember of that year. 

Vergennes is eight miles back from the lake as 
Otter Creek runs, although in an air line but little more 
than half that distance. It is one of the oldest cities 
in New England, chartered in 178S. It is also the 
smallest incorporated city in the country. The city 
limits include an area of i%yii}4, miles. 

Essex, a small village on the west shore, is 10 
miles north of Westport. The Boquet river empties 
into the lake four miles north of Es- 
sex landing. It is navigable for about 
a mile. It was a rendezvous of Bur- 
goyne's flotilla in the advance on 
Ticonderoga, in 1777, and in 1 812 was 
entered by British gunboats to work 
the destruction of the little village 
of Willsborough, a mile inland. 

Willsborough Point, a low 

peninsula about four miles long by 

one wide, separates Willsborough 

Bay from the main lake. Railroad 

station is Willsborough, five miles distant at the 

south. 

The Four Brothers are near the middle of the 




38 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

lake, east of Willsborough Point. Here occurred the 
running engagement between Benedict Arnold anc 
Captain Pringle, in 1776, in which the English were 
victorious. Juniper Island is northeast of the 
Brothers with high, almost vertical walls, surmountec 
by a lighthouse. 

After leaving Essex Landing the boat passes ou 
into the broadening lake, gradually nearing the Ver 
mont side in the approach to Burlington. Back in 
land are the two highest peaks of the Green Moun 
tains — Mansfield, 4,360 feet above the tide, anc 
Camel's Hump, the Leon Couchant of the French. 

Shelburne Farm, the summer place of Dr. W. Sew 
ard Webb, is on the east shore. North extends Shel 
burne peninsula terminating at Pottier's Point. 

Shelburne Harbor is east of Pottier's Point 
Here are the shipyards of the Champlain Transporta 
tion Company. It is worthy of note that but one yea 
after Robert Fulton's steamboat was launched on tin 
Hudson River a steamboat w^as launched at Burling 
ton. It could run five miles an hour without heatinj 
the shaft ! 

La Plotte river empties into Shelburne Harbor 
Its name is of Revolutionary origin. A party of In 
dians left their canoes unguarded on the Ijanks whiL 
making a raid on the scattered settlement beyond 
They were driven back by the whites and took t 
their canoes for safety. But the canoes had been dis 
covered and riddled with holes by some prying settler 
who now proceeded to riddle the savages also. Th 
Green Mountain Boys were very artistic in thes 
little affairs. 

Rock Dunder is a promment object, as we nea 
Burlington. It is a sharp cone 20 feet high, abov 
water, believed by Winslow C. Watson, the historiar 
to be the famous " Rock Regio " so frequently mer 
tioned m colonial records. 



THE ADIRDNDACKS. ^^f 

Burlington is a city of nearly 15,000 inhabitants, 
So miles north of Whitehall. It is one of the largest 
umber marts in the country, standing fourth in the 
)rder of business. The tirms represent a capital of 
^4,000,000. 150,000,000 feet of lumiber are sold an- 
lually from the markets. Three railroads centre 
lere — the Central Vermont, the Burlington & La- 
noille, and the Rutland & Burlington. 

The Champlain Transportation Company 
las its general ofhce here, Captain George Rushlow, 
General manager. Its steamers run to connect with 
the I). & H. trains on the west shore, and to Adiron- 
dack points. The Lake Champlain Yacht Club has 
an elegant club house a little way north of the steam- 
boat landing. 

The University of A'ermont is located here, crown- 
ing the hill, on the western slope of M'hich the prin- 
cipal part of the city lies. Among other .public build- 
ings of interest are the Medical College, Billings Li- 
brary building, Vermont Episcopal Institute, St. Jo- 
seph's College, Park Gallery of Art, Fletcher Free 
Library, the Mary Fletcher Hospital, and the Young 
Men's Christian' Association building. 

On the high land, back of the city, overlooking 
Wmooski Valley, is the Green INIountain Cemetery, 
where lies the body of Vermont's famous son, Ethan 
Allen. A men anient of Barre granite, 50 feet in 
height, surmounted by a statue of Allen, marks the 
spot, and is a shrine often visited by admirers of the 
Hero of Ticonderoga. 

Hotels. Van Ness, American and Hotel Burling- 
ton are the best. 

Colchester Point reaches out half way across the 
broad lake north of Burlington, and still further west 
are Colchester reef and light-house —a blood-red light 
marking the outermost rock at night. 

Schuyler Island is a large cultivated island lying 



40 



THE ADIRONDACKS, 



near the west shore. Trembleau Mountain is beyond, 
terminating at Trembleau Point. 

Port Douglas is the deepest curve of Corlears 
Bay, west of Schuyler Island, at the south of Trem- 
bleau Mountain. The section is wild and picturesque 
and but little developed. Some enthusiastic admirei 
has called it the Naples of Lake Champlain. Certair 
trains on the D. & H. will stop during the season, foi 
which see time-tables. Bay View House, John L. 
Mock, manager, is here overlooking the lake. Ca- 
pacity 50. Rates $2 per day ; $8 to $15 per week. 
Open June ist. Post-office address, Douglas. 

Port Kent is 10 miles from Burlington. Below, 

the town is nol 
attractive, b u 1 
above, along 
the brow of the 
hill are several 
very pleasant, 
com f ortabl e 
looking houses, 
among them the 
old home of El- 
kanah Watson, 
the historian. 
Trembleau Hall 
a boarding 
house, will ac- 
commod ate 

about 20 guests. 

Farrell 8z Ad gate, proprietors. Rates unknown. 

Tne K., AuS. C. &L. C. R. R., runs from Port Kent 
to Keeseville, passing over //if chasm a short distance 
below Rainbow Falls. The road is five miles long 
and was built primarily in the interest of the Au Sable 
Horse Nail works at Keeseville. It will be extended 
up the Au Sable River to Au Sable Forks, through 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 41 

Jay to Keene Valley, thence via Johns Brook Pass 
over to Lake Placid. The surv^ey has been made and 
in is expected the road will be in operation in 1894. 

Tlie Lake View House from its commanding 
position overlooks the long slope down to the shores 
of Lake Cbamplain toward the east, and at the west, 
the valley through which comes the Kw Sable river, 
the little hamlet of Au Sable Chasm, and the head of 
the Gorge into which the river plunges in spray- 
draped Rainbow Falls. The accommodations in 
house and cottages are sufficient for a hundred guests 
but the dining capacity is jDractically unlimited. 
Rates $2.50 per day, with special terms for the week 
or season. Open June i to October 15. Stop-over 
privileges are given passengers by rail and boat at 
Port Kent. The hotel carriage conveys guests to and 
from the Chasm station for 25 cents the round trip. 
W. H. Tracy, proprietor. The hotel and Chasm are 
under one management and Mr. Tracy may be ad- 
dressed for particulars relating to either. 

Au Sable Cbasm is the Yosemite in miniature ! 
Here the impetuous Au Sable, coming out from the 
mountains of the south, breaks, after many a rush 
and tumble, over the rocks in beautiful Rainbow 
Falls, then hurrying downward through devious ways, 
under towering cliffs and through dark places where 
the sun never shines, linally emerges into the broader, 
willowy way, to mingle after many a twist and turn 
with the quiet waters of Lake Cham plain. The walls 
that now stand apart, were united and solid in the 
past ; projections on the one side are faced by corres- 
ponding depressions on the other ; strata broken off 
here are continued over there. Low down are found 
petrified specimens of the first orders of animal life, 
and ripple marks made when the rock, in its plastic 
state, was the bed of some lake or ocean ; above in 
cuccessive layers, are nearly a hundred feet of solid 
rock. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 43 

Who can say what ages have passed away since 
the restless sea beat upon this unknown shore and 
left the marks of its wavelets for us to wonder at ? 
Thought is lost away back in the eternity of " Th^ 
Beginning" when darkness was upon the face of the 
deep. Later, with the dawn of Creation, and in its 
full light, the lowest of animal creatures lived their 
brief day and added their mite to old Ocean's bot- 
tom. Long ages passed away. Floods swept across 
the uneasy earth that reeled and staggered with the 
pulsations" of its mighty heart of fire. Its thin shell 
bubbled up into inountain ridges, and broke like 
crackle glass, then, cooling, left its lines in ragged 
heights and fearfid depths, over which great glaciers 
came grinding uplifted points, polishing, leveling and 
filling up. Then the ice retreated to its northern 
home. The rains descended, the floods came out of 
the mountains filled with great rocks and sharp flint 
and grinding quartz, to gnaw its way deeper and 
deeper into the soft rock until in the fullness of our 
day is revealed the wonderland of ' ' The Walled 
Banks of the Au Sable." 

Admission to the Chasm is gained through 
" The Lodge," a picturesque bviilding, octagonal in 
form, pagoda-like, unique and attractive. Within, 
will be found photographs, books and curios pertain- 
ing to the place. Before descending, note the queer 
eftect that the stained glass in the lodge windows 
gives to objects seen through them, wh^re the blue 
makes frosty winter, and the red the most insufferable 
of summers of the same object. 

Entrance fee of 75 cents is charged. The boat 
ride is 50 cents additional, including carriage back to 
the hotel. Large parties are admitted at reduced 
rates. Permanent guests of the Lake View have free 
access. Guides are unnecessary, as once in the 
Chasm, the course is plain, guide boards and signs 




LVyl^ 



MORSIi:SHOE FALLS. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 45 

pointing the way and calling attention to notable 
places until Table Rock is reached where boats are 
entered for the remainder of the trip. The boats are 
in charge of experienced men, and although the ride is 
exciting, it is attended with no danger, and the most 
timid need not hesitate in going. 

Rainbow Falls, at the head of the Chasm, flings 
its mass of water from nearly 70 feet above into the 
gulf below. Horse Shoe Falls is nearly opposite 
the entrance. Note its suggestive shape from the 
lookout before descending the stairs. 

Pulpit Rock faces us as we approach the Elbow, 
which is the first turn below the entrance. Split Rock 
shows on the left at the farthest point visible as you 
turn around the elbow. The rock which stands at the 
left of the opening made by the splitting off of a 
large fallen mass is called the Elepliant's Head 
and with the morning sun lighting up the massive 
front, the name does not seem inappropriate. Stop 
when 3^ou reach the end of the" bridge that crosses 
here. ' Tlie Devil's Oven is in the wall which shuts 
off our farther advance on the right of the stream. 
"Why "Oven" is not so clear, for if you climb the 
rough rocks and enter its 30 feet of depth, you will 
not find it the superheated place suggested, but rather 
the reverse. The same tropical imagination that con- 
ceived of this and some of the other names applied 
to places here, gave to the narrow passage-way at our 
feet the name of Hell Gate, and looking, one does 
not really wonder at the fancy. From Hell Gate, 
rising in a great sweep heavenward, away from the 
rushing water, is Jacob's Liadder. Across the 
bridge we go, around the rocky abutment toward the 
left, clinging perhaps to the iron railing which pre- 
vents our sliding into the water below ; beneath 
overhanging rocks, over the seething water, across 
the bridge which spans the Devil's Puncli-Bo"wl — 




70 KESVILCE 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



47 



pausing, perhaps, to 
glance into the green 
depths of the Fernery at 
our left — down across the 
worn rocks, then zig-zag 
up the side to a higher 
level to glaze into one of 
the most remarkable 
specimens of rock boring 
in the world, called Ja- 
cob's Well, showing 
where some vagrant 
stone, caught perhaps in 
an eddy when the stream 
ran at this high level and 
whirled about by the cur- 
rent ground its way down 
through the strata of soft 
rock, tuitil worn out in 
vain beatings against its 
prison walls. Here a bridge crosses Mystic Gorge^ 
to the Long Gallery beyond, which, descending, we 
come to Point of Rocks. Note, high up the sides 
of these rocks the segment of a large bowl similar 
to Jacob's Well. Backward, the rapids, seen from 
this point in the sunshine at noon, are very beauti- 
ful. Opposite is Hyde's Cave, named after a ven- 
turesome individual who, in 1S71, let himself down 
by a rope from the rocks above and was the first to 
reach its dual entrance. Below the bridge, which 
leads to Hyde's Cave, on the same side of the stream, 
is Bixby's Grotto. 

Smuggler's Pass is on the north shore, directly 
opposite the Grotto. You may follow along the ledge 
if you like and lose yourself from sight where, back 
from the river, this passage widens into quite a large 
chamber. More stairways are found as we proceed. 









THE SENTINEL 



THE ADIRCNDACKS. 49 

then comes the Post Office which although it has 
neither Post Master nor distinguishing name m the 
postat department, nevertheless does a larg-e bus - 
Sess peculiarly its own, as the observant visitor amU 
Notice No charge is made here for drop- etter oi 
card, and many alail themselves of the privilege. 

Cing^ng close to the rocks protected by the iron rail- 
in^ we pai along high up at this point, then through 

Anvilfs before you, partially hidden perhaps, by the 
nistlc clnopy which has been built against it to afford 
shade fo?such as mav care to take advantage of it 
when for the two or three hours m the middle 

ot ?h; dav the sun pours its beams down into this open 
snace Back of the^Anvil Catnedral Rocks rise a 
hundred feet above the level floor, suggesting m their 
broken lines some vast cathedral's ruined towers and 
aSes - Tne sentinel" stands guard at the outer 
corner of Cathedral Rocks. 

Throue-h a cleft in the lower edge of Table Kock ^^ e 

hmes and in charge of stalwart boatmen who will 
gude unsafely through the exciting passage beUnv^ 
Tiif- Grand Flume reaches from Table koclcioami 
7o tL W Here the water runs straight away, shut 
in bv wSls thafrise perpendicularly up for more than 
inb> ^^^^^^™;"\-L the dip of the rock-strata on 
:ittfSt gW^s'onethequerr sensation of runmng 
down qu?te Isteephill. Here, atthe narrowest place, 



50 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



the cliffs are scarcely ten feet apart and the sky above 
s :ems but a narrow ribbon of blue. The water seems 
to round up in the middle and 
actually to run on edge. Over 
this spot the main road crossed 
years ago and the place is 
spoken of now by the older in- 
habitants as *' High Bridge,'* 
A story is told to the effect 
that when after a time the bridge 
was condemned and the plank 
taken off leaving only the naked 
log stringers stretched across, a 
horseman went over one dark 
and stormy night, unconscious 
of his danger at the time, al- 
though remembering afterward 
that as ne approached in the 
intense darkness, his horse had 
hesitated and when urged, 
moved forward in fear and 
trembling. 

The Lower Gate- Way ends the Grand Flume 
and ushers us into the Pool. The Sentry Box is 
at the right as we emerge into the open space. On 
the left there is a larger crevasse 
in \^'hich, leaning, stands the Bro- 
ken Needle At the Pool the 
turns river sharply to the left and ^^^ 
leads downward over dancing rapids ^^* 
where we go until, rounding to ^^^ 
the right, we enter quiet water ■■hfp"^: 
once more and finally pass out 
into the Basin where, at the ^;^.::^_7o^^ 
landing, carriages are taken to ^^^r'^i^K 
convey us back to the hotel. V::^'5j,^it 

It is well to have passed '-'''" '^-r* 
through Au Sable Chasm once, in a life-time. Such 





THE ADIRONDACKS. 5 1 

scenes make a man realize the puny creature that 
he is, for — in the somewhat stalwart language of 
Will Carleton : 

" To appreciate Heaven well 

It is good for man to have some fifteen minutes of Hell." 

Photographs of the Chasm may he procured at the 
Lake \''iew Hcmse, where large books, showing the 
series, are on exhibition. 

******* 

Returning to the steamer, we see, three miles north 
of the landing at Port Kent, the sandy mouth of the 
Au Sable River. " Au Sable" means "a river of 
sand." A wooded depression in the ground above 
shows the course of the river. Across from this is the 
widest uninterrupted portion of the lake, the distance 
being nearly eleven miles. IMeasuring into Mallett's 
Bay, the distance is nearly thirteen miles. 

Valcour Island is about six miles north of Port 
Kent, the steamer passing between it and the main 
land on the west. Here, (^ct. ii, 1776, the first naval 
engagement of the Revolution occurred, between the 
British, under command of Captain Thomas Pringle, 
and the Americans under Benedict Arnold. The 
British command was victorious ; the American fleet 
destroyed. The wreck of the "Royal Savage" lies 
under water at the south end of Valcour Island. In 
this engagement, although defeated, Arnold acquitted 
himself in such a manner as to win the admiration of 
his enemies and the approval of his superior officers. 
He was born in Norwich, Conn., Jan. 3d, 1741, and 
died in London, June 14, iSoi. As a youth, turbulent ; 
as a soldier he was ambitious and bold to rashness. 
Jealous of his fellow offcers, the transition from dis- 
contented rebel to infamous traitor was easy. A 
brilliant commander — his fall was like that of Lucifer.* 



* For a full account of this engagement see " Lake George 
AND Lake Chamflain." 



'IHE ADIRONDACK S. Ky 

Hotel Champlain, the superb, is seen on the 
bold headland that puts out from the west shore just 
north of Valcour Island. It does not come upon you 
suddenly, as a revelation. You have seen it over the 
lake for miles back on your course, before the steamer 
had touched at Burlington, perhaps, or from the car 
window as the reeling train swung around Trembleau 
Mountain nearly ten miles away and at intervals ever 
since as the road wound in and out along the shore. 
Now, as you approach, its magnificent proportions 
come out in grand relief against the sk}-. 

" Commanding" is not misapplied here. The hotel 
stands on a height that breaks away abruptly in all 
directions for a space, then in gentler slope reaches 
the level of the lower shores north and south, the 
water on the east, and the valley toward the west 
where the trains of the D. & H. flash like gleaming 
shuttle through the vari-tinted web of cultivated fields 
and cross-line country roads. Long colonades ; broad 
piazzas conforming to the swelling contour of facing, 
east, south and west ; breezy porticos, and balconies 
hung along its sides or perched high up on tower and 
sharply sloping roof — give grace and lightness to the 
structure that rises above the tops of tne trees crown- 
ing the rugged bluff. Distance gives to it the light- 
ness of a castle built of straws — the closer view reveals 
it solid and substantial as the most realistic cou^^l 
wish. 

At a moderate elevation it commands in an un- 
broken cn^cuit a panorama that for picturesque varie- 
ty and beauty is equalled perhaps nowhere in the 
country. Having no near mountain heights to dwarf 
its own strong setting, it looks out over land and 
water diversified and changeful. The surrounding- 
scenery is restful, rather than overpowering with great 
heights and depths. Right and left runs the lower 
plain with checker-board of field and woodland with 



THE ADIRONDACKS. SS 

network Of roads, and quaint farm buildings gathered 
here and there in httle knots that form hamlets 
^ndviUates while beyond are hills nsmg nito the 
the range^'of the Adnondaeks that stretch across 
the J^^?ff^^._„^^ls with the grander mountam peaks. 
R^"^" .1 the elst a wide s^ath has Deen cut out 
Sh the' green trees down to the water s edge, 
where^busy life attends as the steamers come and ^o 
He?e gleams the beach of "The Smging Sands cir- 
clhrgfn a broad belt toward the south between the 
restfess water and the thick growmg cedars. _ Toward 
Se north are perpendicular cliiTs that attam qmte a 
l.tcrht the bluffs which undoubtedly gaye to the 
height— tne oiunb w asunder at one place 

WKsmm 

mmmmm 



5^ THE ADIRONDACKS. 

be confidently expected, for that prince of hotel-keep. 
Flori'^a^sturrhead.'^'^"^^ ''^ ^^°-^' «'• ^"g-«-. 

T„°u ^^"''f '''■°" '^''^'' Y°* i'' 308 miles ; fare, $8 os 
To Montreal, 77 miles ; fare, $2.71, Quick and con 
ven.ent tram service will be mainiaiSld throughout 

r^^dTCe t'tnntr^'^^^ ^^ "^« ChateauraV'/ail^ 
The Catholic Summer School of America 

has acquired necessary land on the lakf^eTween 
Plattsbm^h and Bluff Point and will erect build^nS 
suitable for Its service. The course of '03 wi 11 col- 
sist principally of lectures on scientific, historical and 
rehgious subjects, continuing from July 15 toAuTust6 
Crab Island, some disfance north of Valdur t 
the burial place of the common sailors and marines 
who fell in the battle of Plattsburgh. North^f tfis 
and projecting well out across thi lake, is Cumbe?: 
land Head, from which the shore recedes towarTl the 
north and west then comes back in a wide sweep 
embracing Cumberland Bay. ^' 

^Jf^^^f^^^^S'^^^^^tt^^^vsh took place here in 

hlllC ^. "^J'n^ ""^ ^^.^^^^' ^^^ ^^^o^^t of this decisive 
battle IS as follows : On Sabbath morning Septem- 

McCoS'b''^'^^ '?if ^i"^"^"^ ^^^^^ *'--« nncfer aTner'l 
McComb, and the American fleet under Commodore 
Macdonough, were simultaneously attacted by the 
British land and water forces, under General Sir 
George Provost and Commodore Downie. The en 
gagement resulted in acomplete victory for the form- 
er, only a few small boats of the enemy effecting a 
successful retreat. The British also lost irSr^else 
^^Q^^^' which were abandoned in their retreat-which 

-See "Lake George and Lake Champlain." 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



57 



served them right for breaking the Sabbath. This is 
a regular U. S. army post. The barracks, about a 
mile south of the village, near the lake shore, built in 
1838, are occupied by a company of soldiers belong- 
ing to the regular army. 

Plattsburgn on the west shore of this bay, is a 
thriving village of 8,000 inhabitants. It is of con- 
siderable commercial importance, being on the direct 
hne between New York and Montreal, 311 miles from 
the former and 74 from the latter. It is the northern 
terminus of the Au Sable (Branch) Railroad, and 
from it the Chateaugay Railroad penetrates the 
mountains toward the west. Plattsburgh is thor- 
oughly cos- 
mopoliltan, 
with an 
opinion t o 
offer on 
every ques- 
tion of the 
day, exert- 
ing no mean 
influence 
through its 
wide-awake 
newspapers 
the Daily 
Telegram , 
andihe Sen- 
tinel and 
Republican 
— the latter 
instituted in 
181 1, and 

notwithstand its age, one of the most reliable and 
ably conducted democratic weeklies in the state. 
The first settler in this region was Count Charles de 




5>'5 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Fredenburgh, a captain in the English army. The 
warrant conveying the land to him bore date June ii, 
1769. The property reverting to the state after the 
Revolution, was granted, in 1784, to Zephaniari Piatt 
and others, and incorporated into the town of Platts- 
burgh, April 4, 1785. A company was then or- 
ganized which, in June of the same year, erected 
a mill at Fredenburgh Falls. The estimate of ex- 
pense contained, among other items, the following : 
" For bread, $65 ; for rum $80." They used a great 
deal of bread in those days. In the year 1800 Platts- 
burgh possessed a population of less than 300. Within 
the county limits were owned at this time 58 slaves. 

Hotels. The Fouquet House at the depot, affords 
a convenient stopping place for parties arriving late 
or desiring to take an early train out. The Witherill 
House is near the post-office. It is elegant in its ap- 
pointments, its pictures and decorations displaying 
a high degree of artistic taste. The Cumberland 
stands at the corner of Trinity Square. 

The Cumberland is one of the oldest hotels but 
has renewed its youth, and is in splendid condition 
under its new management. Rates, $2. 50 per day ; 
$10 to $15 per week. Charles F. Beck, late of the 
Florida House, St. Augustine, Florida, and of Hotel 
Champlain, Rouse's Point, is manager. A free 'bus 
runs to trains and boats, and ample time is given for 
breakfast here between the arrival of morning train 
from the south and departure of train for the interior. 
A view from the observatory on the roof enables one 
to ffx the topography of the country in mind in plan- 
ning excursions, or suffices for an hour in the mere 
pleasure of looking on surrounding land and water. 

Cumberland Head, near which occurred the na- 
val battle of 1 8 14, is three miles from Plattsburgh. 
Continuing northward the west shore is low but pic- 
turesque in its irregular line of deep bays and pro- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 59 

important port of f»"y °V^ *i^", leading to New 
roads centre here. v.. , *\^g„^l,"rk and the Thou- 
York, the O. & L. C, '" i?Sden „ ^jS ^ p^^^_ 

sand Islands, the Grand Trunk o ^ °^ ;^ ^„^ ^^^ 
land & Ogdensburg t°*^„^^^^^'?he southeast. 

Central Vermont *" B°^°" '^'J^t" wav north of the 
Fort Montgomery- a ittt e w a> ^^^ 

long bridge .s an .nte-sUng ^^'^^'""gi, | ^elt of 

L-^dfanr^^rkftr boundary hne between the 

United States and Canada. ^ * * 

ways in their numerical order nor >eti ^^ ^^^ 

importance, but rather ^ g^ps t^^^^^^^,^,, L^ke 
k\lt.n-vS 0a;::^^i2 S^cona^^^^^ Central 



CHAPTER IV. 

Into the Northwest Lake Region via the 
Chateaugay Railroad. 

P ATEWAY No. i leads from Plattsburgh into the 
VJ Great Northwest Lake Region over the Chateau- 
gay Railroad, dividing the patronage of the central 
and westerly resorts with 
Gateway No. 9. 

The first section of the 
railroad was built by the 
State from Plattsburgh to 
Chnton Prison, at Danne- 
mora, 17 miles. In 1880 
the road was extended to 
Lyon Mountain, 17 miles 
further; but the influx of 
, , Adirondack tourists was 

increasing, and the road that climbed an altitude of 
2,000 feet to reach the iron mines of Lyon Mountain 
must go farther into the wilderness. So it was 

tfr^^^u -^^ •^''^?' ^^^^- I" 1888, 19 miles were 
added, bringing it to Saranac Lake, distributing its 
passengers by various stage routes that branch from 
iLolf P^'"''^ ""n^T ""^ s^^^^er hotels. By it tourists 
reach Chazy, Chateaugay, Loon, Rainbow, St. Regis 
and Upper and Lower Saranac Lakes, Ray Brook Ind 
Lake Placid, going to Cascade Lakes and Adirondack 
r?«Sr^fl^l; ^ Wagner sleeping car leaves 
Grand Central Station, New York, daily the year 
round for Plattsburgh, where passengers are given 
time for breakfast before leaving for the intfrlor 
r ^Ji¥r f P^f.^^^^^ season, passengers can leave 
Grand Central Station 7:30 r. m. connecting with trains 




THE ADIRUNDACKS. 6l 

leaving Plattsburgh 7:30 a. m., and reach the various 
resorts in time for dinner. Passengers can leave New 
York at 6 p. m. by Hudson River night boats and by 
the Adirondack special from Albany or Troy, reach 
Plattsburgh at 12:20 and Saranac Lake 4:30 p. m. the 
following day. This enables passengers to take the 
stage ride from the railroad to the various hotels in 
the cool of the day. Drawing-room cars are run on 
all trains. Sleeping and drawing-room car accommo- 
dations can be secured in advance at any of the sta- 
tions. A Sunday train each way will run during July 
and August. On and after July 15 trains will run 
through to Lake Placid over the new road. 

Dannemora is 1 7 miles from, and i , 300 feet above, 
Platts])urgh. Clinton Prison is situated here, and af- 
fords a quiet home for a number of people of leisure, 
who pass their time in meditation, making clothing, 
and other congenial pursuits. From Dannemora, the 
road swings westerly, around the south side of John- 
son ]\Iountain, then north, near the west shore of 
Chazy Lake, then, west and southerly to the mines 
at Lyon Mountain, running 17 miles to reach a point 
nine miles distant in a straight line. 

Chazy Lake is nearly foin- miles long and a mile 
wide. Chazy Lake House has an advertised capacity 
for 50 to 60 guests. It stands near the north end of 
the lake, and may be reached by rowboat from Chazy 
Station or In- carriage from Dannemora. 

Lyon Mountain is the centre of extensive mining 
operations of the Chateangay Ore and Iron Company, 
and exists at the pleasure of that corporation. In 1S78 
it C(nitained only a few scattered houses ; now it has 
a hotel, stores, and churches, with about 2,000 inhabi- 
tants. The houses are mostly of logs and of uniform 
size. A day can be spent here profitably inspecting 
the mines and miners at work, the crushers, separa- 
tors, etc., although ordinarily it is not a pleasure 



62 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



-h^^? OF — 



seeker's resort. It is peculiarly a mining town in ap- 
pearance ; lacking, however, the usual accompaniment 
of gambler and rumseller, for people of that ilk are 
not tolerated here. The attention of all good people, 
who believe evil should be licensed, ' ' because prohi- 
bition can never prohibit you know," is respectfully 
called to this spot. 

Upper Chateaugay Lake is about four miles 
in length and one broad. It empties at the north into 
the Lower Lake, which 
is somewhat smaller 
than the upper. It is 
picturesque with sur- 
rounding mountains 
and rugged shores. It 
is reached by stage from 
Lyon Mountain, 4 miles, 
and from Chateaugay 
Station on the O. & L. 
C. R. R. by a 7-mile 
stage ride and by con- 
necting boat through 
the lower lake and nar- 
rows. It has a number 
of summer hotels and 
cottage-camps on its 
shores. The smaller game birds and water fowl are 
here in their season, squirrels and foxes abound, and 
deer and bear are not uncommon additions to the list 
of the killed. A Small Steamboat runs through 
the lower and upper lakes, landing at all camps 
and hotels. Fare 50 cents. An excursion down the 
winding stream that connects the two lakes brings to 
view at intervals a section of country that has been 
long settled. 

Ralph's is on the east shore (see map) 3'^ miles 
from Lyon Mountain (stage fare 50 cents). Capacity 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 63 

for about loo guests. Open from June 15th to Octo- 
ber. Rates, $3 per day; $12.50 to $17.50 per week. 
J. W. Hutton, proprietor. This house is specially at- 
tractive with an air of neatness that extends from of- 
fice to kitchen. The beds are of the best and the table 



equaled by few of the most famous. There is a tele- 
graph office here and two mails daily. It is one of the 
places where you realize that there is consideration 
for you not limited by the length of your purse, where, 
with a degree of comfort not often met with, you are 
surrounded by a primitive environment that goes to • 
make the ideal summer's outing. Here will be found 
tennis, billiards and bowling, for lovers of such amuse- 
ments, and boats, guides and camp supplies for sports- 
man and fisherman. The proprietor is thorough and 
efficient. During the season he may be found here — 
a genial boniface always at his- post — when winter 
comes he is off with the birds to Florida, where, as 
proprietor of the Cocoanut Grove House at Palm 
Beach, he welcomes his patrons ,;from the north in a 
like cheery and acceptable manner. 

Ttie Indian Point House is on the west side of 
the lake near the south end ; capacity about 40 guests. 
Rates, $1.50 per day, $8 to $10 per week. R. M. 



64 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Shutts, proprietor. Post-office address, "Merrill's, 
N. Y." The accommodations are in a group of build- 









ings that have grown to meet the increasing demand 
of visitors, and the equipment consists of some of the 
best beds made and furniture comfortable enough for 
all reasonable desires. It is strictly a temperance 
house, no liquor being sold on the premises. The 
steamboat runs regularly to connect with the stage 
for railroad at Lyon Mountam. Fare to railroad, $1. 
Mr. Shutts is a veteran hunter and fisherman, and his 
house is admirably located for lovers of wildwood 
sports. Some of the best fi.shing grounds of the lake 
are close by the housQ. At the back is a dense forest 
that reaches out into the wild section, through which 
trails run to smaller sheets of water that are little 
known except to the local hunter and fisherman. All 
requisites for sport are supplied when wanted. 

Hotel Interlaken. Capacity 75. Board $2.50 
per day ; $10 to S14 per week. Open May i to No- 
vember I. Telegraph in the house. W. P. Merrill 
proprietor. Post office " Merrill." Stage to R. R. at 
Lyon Mountain (4 miles), 50 cents. This is a new 
house at the north end of the Upper Chateaugay, on 
a bit of high ground that commands the entire lake 
and surrounding mountains closing it in. (See map.) 
Outfit and supplies are furnished for hunter or fish- 



THE ADIRUNDACKS. 65 

erman here with guides and camp necessaries. While 
it has the ordinary hunting facilities, Merrill's is a re- 
sort for all kinds of weather because of its position 
near the outlet which gives choice of lake or river 
fishing according to the time or season. Boats cost 
to hire 50 cents per day, $3 per week ; boats and guides 
from $2.50 to $3 per day. The proprietors suggest 
that the best time for trout fishing is as soon as the 
lake is free from ice and thence on to the first of Au- 
gust. The best deer-hounding is from the 20th of Sep- 
tember to the 20th of October. Partridge shooting is 
best after the leaves fall ; duck shooting during the 
latter part of October and November. August may 
be called the fashionable season as during that month 
one is more inclined to admire the views from the 
broad piazza or to stroll about in the shadow of the 
surrounding grove. 

The Merrill House. Capacity 50. Rates $10 to 
$14 per week. Special rates to families or for a pro- 
tracted stay. Oliver Young, proprietor. Post office 
(Merrill's) and telegraph office in the house. Stage 
to trains at Lyon mountain (4 miles), 50 cents. 
This house is long established and highly approved. 
It is quaint, homelike and attractive in many respects. 
Its location is convenient (see map) for lake and river 
hunting or fishing alike. The house stands on rising 
ground about 60 feet back from the lake where the 
little steamer lands on regular trips. 

Lower Chateaugay Lake is about 23^ miles 
in length, and less than a mile in width, with nice 
shores and sloping hills on either side. It is reached 
from the Upper Lake by a winding stream about two 
mile's in length, through which the little steamer runs, 
affording a pleasant excursion in its round to the dif- 
ferent landings. 

The Banner House on the east side near the 
north end of the lake, will provide for 75 guests in 



66 THE AUIRONDACKS. 

house and adjoining cottages. Rates $1.50 and $2 
per day ; $10 to $14 per weelc. Open June to Septem- 
ber 15. J. S. Kirby, proprietor. Post office Chateau- 
gay Lake. Stage to Chateaugay Station 50 cents. 
By boat and stage to Lyons Mountain $1. The 
place is suggestive of quiet comfort and vacation rest. 

Cliateaugliay (gateway No. 16, station on the 
O. & L. C. R. R. 45 miles west of Rouse's Point), is 8 
miles north of Lower Chateaugay Lake on the river 
of the same name, which continues northward to the 
St. Lawrence. It is a somewhat thriving country vill- 
age of^about 700 population, with two hotels, stores, 
etc. 

Cliateaugay Chasm, 1% miles, north of the 
station, rivals Au Sable Chasm in many respects, and 
deserves to rank among the wonders of the Adiron- 
dack region. It is a half mile in length, walled in by 
perpendicular cliffs, through which the river runs, 
descending in its first leap a distance of 50 feet ; 
thence by numerous broken steps, throughout its en- 
tire length. It is rendered accessible to the public by 
means of stairwavs, galleries, etc. The Cliasiu 
House standing at the entrance, is much resorted to 
by local picnic parties and by wonder-seekers from a 
distance. 

* * * * * -» * 

Returning to Lyon'Mountain we swing around 
its west side getting a beautiful and extended view 
of Chateaugay Lake at one point where the woods 
have been cut away for that purpose. Then come 
forge and coal-kilns, beyond which, winding west and 
south, the road penetrates a wild and interesting sec- 
tion of wilderness, until Loon Lake is reached. 

Lioon Lake extends south from the station, and is 
about two and a half miles long. It is an extremely 
pretty sheet, with high banks and irregular shores. 
The Loon Lake House stands on the high ridge at 



TKi; ADIRONDACKS. 7 

its south end which, like the rim of some wide-mouthed 
volcano, holds the lake within its circling Avails, while 
beyond, the land drops rapidly down into the deep 
valley of the Saranac. The house is roomy, well fur- 
nished, and, together with the ccttages, has capacity 
for about 350 guests. Price for board, !: 4 per day; 
$17.50 to $35 per week. Ferd. W. Chase, proprie- 
tor. Post Office, Loon Lake. Stages meet all trains 
at Loon Lake Station; fare 75 cents. Open June to 
October. At Loon Lake Station the A. & St. L. 
Railroad from Malone joins the Chateaugay, the two 
running parallel for some distance south, then grad- 
ually drawing apart as Rainbow Lake is approached. 

Rainbow Lake is noted fishing ground and claims 
the proud distinction of yielding the largest lake trout 
on record, one having a weight of 52 pounds. Numer- 
ous small ponds in this vicinity yield excellent fishing 
while Wardner Pond (which comes close up to Rain- 
bow Inn) with adjacent waters, have been stocked 
with trout fr}'-, affording rare sport and sometimes as- 
tonishmg results, to even the unpracticed fisherman. 

Rainbow Inn will provide for 50 guests. Rates 
$2. 50 per day ; $10 to $15 per week. James M. Ward- 
ner, proprietor. Post Office (" Rainbow") and tele- 
graph office in the house. Open all the year. Station 
on the A. & St. L. Railroad about 50 rods from the 
house. Station on the Chateaugay three miles east, to 
which special conveyance runs if notice be sent in ad- 
vance. Passengers leaving New York City at 7 p. m. , 
reach Rainbow, via the A. & St. L. in time for break- 
fast. The house is finished in a most substantial man- 
ner \vith native woods, and arranged to be warmed 
comfortably throughout in case of a sudden lowering 
of the temperature, such as may be expected here by 
the early fishermen or the hunter who tarries for late 
shooting. The large farm connected with the house 
insures a supply of farm products, fresh and health- 








>^v,^^ ^\^ ^ 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 69 

ful. The place has more than the usual number 
3f attractions for the hunter or fisherman, as might 
be expected where the proprietor himself is an ardent 
[over of sport and combines with hearty good-fellow- 
ship a knowledge of the habits and haunts of \^nld 
^ame possessed by but few. He is also cordially sec- 
onded in all his undertakings by an efficient help- 
neet, who counts among her accomplishments that of 
I taxidermist and gives practical evidence of her work 
3y filling every corner of the house with native speci- 
nens of the art. 

Blooxaingdale (Bloomingdale Station, on the 
3hateaugay Railroad, 13^2 miles distant, 66 miles from 
Plattsburgh,) a little hamlet with Methodist, Episco- 
pal and R. C. Churches, several stores, express and 
lelegraph offices. Hotels : Mountain View House, 
capacity 50. Rates, $8 to $12 per week. Open all the 
^ear. Free carriage to the Chateaugay Railroad ; fare 
;o A. & St. L. Railroad, $1. C. H. Wardner, proprie- 
;or. Crystal Spring House ; capacity 50. Rates, 
^2. 50 per day ; $10 to $17.50 per week. Open all the 
>^ear. Robeson & Sharland, proprietors. Carriage to 
station, 25 cents. 

Paul Smitli's is on Lower St. Regis Lake, 7 miles 
,vest of Bloomingdale Station on the Chataugay, and 
[ miles from Paul Smith's Station on the A. & St, L. 
R.ailroad. (Stage 75 cents ; for private conveyance ad- 
vise by mail or telegraph). Capacity 500. Rates $4 to 
)5 per day; $21 to $30 per week. Open May ist to 
October 15th. Paul Smith's Hotel Company, proprie- 
ors. P. O., Paul Smith's. Paul Smith came here 
n 1 861 and built a small house for the accommodation 
)f sportsmen. It soon became a favorite fishing and 
muting resort, and grew rapidly in bulk and popular- 
ty. It is still much visited for sport and leads as a 
'ashionable resort. Parlor and Sleeping cars run 
hrough to New York over the A. & St. L. R. R. 



70 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Lower St. Re^s Lake is about two miles long 
by one broad, and discharges west through the mid- 
dle branch of the St. Regis River. It is about i,6oo 
feet above tide. The only elevation of note in this 
section is St. Re^is Mountain, 1,265 feet above 
the lake. From its summit a beautiful view of the 
lake district is obtainable, showing over fifty different 
bodies of water. 

North of Paul Smith's is a territory, not grand but 
remaining rough and wild, albeit attempts have been 
made for years to subject it to civilization and culti- 
vation. Many parts are noted for game, although not 
so w^ell known to the great public as other sections 
that are, perhaps, dominated by more enterprise than 
this. It is reached past Paul Smith's or from the 
northern gateways 

Malone (Gateway 15) is 57 miles west of Rouse's 
Point. It is the County seat of Franklin County, a 
flourishing, wide-awake village and one of the im- 
portant towns of the State. Hotel Flanagan is the 
leading house, and a good one. Rates $2 to $3 per 
day. Here the A. & St. L. Railroad connects wnth 
road into Canada which, branching after crossing the 
St. Lawrence, gives unbroken tram service to Ottawa 
and Montreal. South, the road pierces the wildest 
section of the west lake region through which it 
winds to its junction with the N. Y. Central at Herki- 
mer. 

Mountain View (State dam of old) is 13 miles 
south of Malone. The Mountain View House 
is near the station; capacity 80. Rates $2.50 to $3 
per day; $10 to $17 per week. Open all the year. R. 
G. Low, proprietor. P. O., Mountain View. 

Indian Lake is one-third of a mile north, and out- 
lets into the river above the State dam. From it a 
trail leads north to the road running east to Ragg^ed 
Lake (43^ miles long, including the " Figure Eight "). 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 7I 

The two are connected by a short stream and one- 
third mile carry. The name of each is descriptive 
enough. Ingraham Pond is about i% miles west 
of the head of Ragged Lake. Across from the shore 
opposite the Ragged Lake House, a trail leads east i 
mile to Mountain Pond ; thence northeast 4 miles to 
the outlet of Chateaugay Lake. Ladd's, capacity 
25. Rates $1.50 to $2.50 per day; $7 to $12 per week; 
open all the year. R. A. Ladd, proprietor. Post 
Office, Duane. This is in a region quite noted for 
game, and the proprietor in his modest way offers at- 
tractive accommodations and wholesome fare at 
a moderate price. It is 16 miles south of Malone, 8 
rniles from the railroad station, (A. & St. L. R. R. at 
Mountain View), and 7 miles north of A. R. Fuller's 
noted place at Meacham Lake. The house is compar- 
atively new, having been built in iSgi, on the site of 
the old house, destroyed by fire. It has a telegraph 
and post office in the house. This was, of old, quite 
noted hunting ground ; it has not lost its popularity of 
late, for the increase of deer under existing laws is no- 
ticeable here as in many other portions of the Adiron- 
dacks, and the fashionable crowds have not come to 
crowd out those who delight in the chase. Guides 
can be engaged with boats and camp supplies if re- 
quired, to which end the proprietor invites correspond- 
ence. Hotel Ayers is on the north end of Lake 
Duane, 11 miles south of Malone. Capacity 100. 
Rates $3 to $4 per day; $12 to $21 per week. Open 
May ist to November. W. J. Ayers & Son, pro- 
prietors. P. O., Duane, N. Y. Meacham Lake 
House is 25 miles from Malone, and 12 miles from Paul 
Smith's Station on the N. A. Railroad. Will accom- 
modate 75. Rates, Sio to $17.50 per week; $2 to $3 
per day. A. R. Fuller, proprietor. Meacham Lake 
is about 2I.2 miles long. Its outlet is the east branch 
of the St Regis River. 



'J2 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Saranac Lake (village) is 73 miles from Platts- 
burgh, a picturesque town of about 1,000 native in- 
habitants, lying low in the valley ; busy and full ot 
enterprise. Around it are protecting hills, and far- 
ther back the mountains. Between the hills run val- 
leys from north, east and south, uniting here so that 
it is approched by level roads, winding through the 
lowlands, from either side. It shows a picturesque 
blending of the primitive forms of old times with the 
sweU structures of prosperous later days, since it went 
forth that here was the health centre of the wilder- 
ness. It has four churches, a graded school, water 
supply for street and dwellings, stores and hotels, 
and telegraphic and telephonic communications with 
summer hotels of the lake region and the outer world. 

This has excellent railroad service by both the Cha- 
teaugay and A. & St. L. railroads. Trains leaving in 
the morning reach New York early in the evening. 
Afternoon trains connect at Plattsburgh with sleeper 
for New York. By the A. & St. L. Railroad is has 
through train service to and from New York via the 
west side of the wilderness. Stages run to and from 
the various hotels of Saranac Lake on arrival and de- 
parture of all trains. 

Tlie Adirondack Sanitarium is a practical 
application of the good to be had here. It is a mile 
below (north of) the village, on a bluff, commanding a 
grand mountain view toward the north and east, 
and well protected from the prevailing western wind. 
Dr. Alfred L. Loomis, of New York, is examining 
physician. The institution is under the immediate 
supervision of Dr. E. L. Trudeau, assisted by Dr. C. 
T. Wicker. Applicants must be examined either by 
Dr. Loomis, in New York, or Dr. Trudeau, at Sara- 
nac Lake. It is not intended as an asylum for hope- 
less cases ; but to put within reach of sufferers from 
incipient pulmonary complaints, whose means are 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 73 

limited, the advantage to be derived from the Adiron- 
dacks climate, a simple, out-of-doors life, and good 
hygienic surroundings, with suitable medical treat- 
ment. There is a handsome central building, con- 
taining dining-room, offices, etc. , and outlaying cot- 
tages, accommodating two to four patients each. The 
Sanitarium accommodates about sixty patients. A 
charge of $5.00 per week is made for each. This is be 
low actual cost pro 7' at a, but the deficiency is made up 
by annual subscriptions. Dr. Trudeau's experience has 
made him a strong advocate of the systematic open- 
air treatment of consumptives which is carried out at 
the institution in most cases. A characteristic scene 
in mid-winter is that of a dozen or more patients 
swathed in wrappers of wool and fur, ranged, sardine- 
like, side by side on the piazza in comfortable steamer 
chairs, chatting or reading, or engaged in such light 
occupation as may be possible with thickly gloved 
fingers ; often remaining out in what may be called 
bad weather even, from nine o'clock in the morning 
until sun-set, except during the intervals taken for 
dinner. Others drive, muffled in furs, or where 
strength permits — thickly clad and well protected 
from the cold — indulge in long tramps through the 
w^oods or over the hills on snow shoes. 

The Hotels at the village are good and are supple- 
mented by numerous private boarding houses open 
to meet every extraordinary demand. ' ' Linwood 
Cottage," Frank A. Mantz, manager, is on the main 
street. Capacity 25. Rates, $10 to $15 per week. 
Open all the year. " Riverside Inn," will accommo- 
date 75. Rates, $3 per day ; $14 to $21 per week. 
This house has electric light and steam heat. A free 
carriage runs to trains. Open all the year. Wallace 
Murray, proprietor. "Martin's" is on high ground, 
on the road to the lake. The late proprietor, Wm. F. 
Martin, founder of the famous old Saranac Lake 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 75 

House, died October 3d of last year, and at present 
the opening of the house is uncertain. 
Ttie New Berkeley will accommodate 100. 

Rates, $3 to $4 per day ; $15 to $21 per week. Open 
the year round. Streeter & Dennison, proprietors. 
This house has been noted for some years for its table 
and as a specially neat place, much too small to ac- 
2cmmo ate us would-be guests. Now, with increased 
:apaci y and add id conveniences it is the desirable 
house of the village. It has steam heat and open 
tirepla es both — a most satisfactory combination, as 
it nisares warmth with ventilation — electric bells, 
baths and other modern improvements. A free car- 
riage runs to all trains at the stations. 

Hotel Ampersand and cottages stand at the ex- 
treme northerly end of lower Saranac Lake, abaut ij^ 
miles east of the village. Transient rates $4 and 
upwards per day ; !^2i and upwards per week. For 
special rates address the Saranac Lake Hotel Com- 
pany, Amp_^rsand, N. Y., Eaton & Young, managers. 
The Ampersand was built by the Saranac Lake Hotel 
Company. It is roomy, rambling and artistic — full of 
unsuspected corners and pleasant surprises. The 
main office is a large room with two large fire places. 
It opens on one side into the spacious dining hall, 
smoking room and gentlemen's reading and writing 
room, and on the other into a reception room, ladies' 
Dilliard, reading and writing rooms and parlor. The 
lotel contains 146 bed-rooms, 68 of which have fire- 
Dlaces. An elevator makes all floors almost equally 
iesirable. It is heated throughout with steam and 
ighted with gas. Public and private bath-rooms are 
3n every floor. The piazzas are broad, extending 
along the entire front and east side of the house. The 
Post-office "Ampersand" and telegraph, telephone 
and general store are in the hotel. Tennis court, 
base-ball field, walks and drives afford opportunity 
for outdoor sports for everyone. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 77 



'In choosing a name for the hotel, "Ampersand" 
was deemed fitting and appropriate from the vicinage 
of the shapely mountain that looms up beyond the 
lake at the south, and at whose base nestles a pretty 
pond bearing the same name, with its outlet in a 
little stream that finds its devious way at last into 
Raquette River. It is picturesque in its commanding 
position on a slight eminence, surrounded by pines, 
hemlocks and balsams, with white birches gleammg 
here and there among their more sombre neighbors. 
The accompanying cuts show glimpses of the hotel 
and a view of the lake but do neither justice. 

C. M. Eaton and W. G. Young, the managers, rep- 
resent energy and enterprise and a knowledge of the 
minutia of hotel service that ensures good manage- 
ment and smooth working throughout. At the be- 
ginning, the Ampersand took position as a popular fa- 
vorite. With a generous freedom of management 
not often equalled it has continued so. _ It is a house 
about which little can be found to criticize. 

Miller's Saranac Lake House. Capacity 250. 
Rates $3 to $4 per dav ; $14 to $21 per week. M. B. 
Miller, owner and proprietor. H. H. Tousley, gen- 
eral manager. This house is spoken of generally as 
" Miller's " rather than by its proper name. It stands 
near the north end of the lake, about one and a half 
miles from the village, on the spot formerly occupied 
by Martin's old house, which was first among famous 
Adirondack resorts, having been built in 1859 (re- 
sembling, however, but slightly, the house that now 
occupies the ground.) Architecturally it suggests 
service and comfort rather than display, while at the 
same time offering an attractive front and outline. 
The interior is arranged with a view to comfort and 
convenience ; the public rooms unconventional but 
cozy withall. Large fire-places have been built m 
many of the rooms, and the entire establishment 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 79 

furnished with necessary conveniences. Many of_the 
sleeping apartments are large, well lighted and venti- 
lated, and arranged in suits of from two to six com- 
municating rooms. The piazza, fronting the lake, 
affords a pleasant, covered promenade. The parlors 
look out on one of the loveliest of quiet Adirondack 
scenes. Across the bay the shore rises abruptly to a 
considerable height. At the left, near by, is a dense 
grove of cedar, balsam and tamarack, with shady 
walks, sheltered nooks and seats, and lovely vistas of 
wood giving glimpses of the water. Beyond is the 
broad lake with its islands and distant mountains. 
Telegraph, telephone and a branch post office is in the 
hotel. New York morning papers arrive on the after- 
noon trains. Sunday papers come Monday noon. 
Parties can leave New York at 7:30 a. m. and arrive 
in time for dinner. Returning by morning train reach 
New York at 7 r. m. Tally-ho stages run to meet all 
trains at the station, fare 50 cents. 

A general store connected with the hotel, will sup- 
ply necessaries for camp or tramp, and some of the 
luxuries too, and those who may not have provided 
themselves wnth proper fishing tackle or hunting out- 
fit can find such articles here, or at command after 
due notice at office or store. Further particulars can 
be had by addressing the proprietor at Saranac Lake. 

The house is democratic in tendency, breez}^ and 
delightful with its changing patronage of many tran- 
sients as the hunter and fisherman come and go. 
Mr. Miller gives personal attention to the manage- 
ment of the house during the season, and under him 
it has gained a position among Adirondack hotels 
equalled by but few. H. H. Tousley, efficient, watch- 
ful and obliging as ever, will have charge of the 
office again this year, winning friends to the house by 
his uniform courtesy and tact, and contributing much 
toward the comfort of its guests. Truly "Miller's" 
is one of the desirable houses of the wilderness. 



THE ADIROKDACKS. 



8l 



The Algonquin is on high ground a half mile 
south of xMmefs John Harding, proprietor. Stages 
connect with all trains, fare 50 cents. The proprietor is 
a graduate of Paul Smith's famous hostelry and at 
one time associate manager of Hotel Ampersand 
The house has modern conveniences, telegraph ana 
Dost-othce. The grounds are spacious, having % ot a 
mile of lake front ; the view is comprehensive, includ- 
ing the greater extent of the Lake and its islands. 
For rates see appendix. ,. , , xi_ c 

Lower Saranac Lake is a little less thanfive 
miles long by one and a quarter wide. It is longest 



-/v\/\p OF- 

•L0W[R-5ARANACvLAK[ 
.j{]x. 1540 rt 

SCAtE OF Mil£5 




from Ampersand in a south-westerly course to the 
inlet, s/mmetrical as a whole, it is separated into 
several natural divisions by outspreadmg peninsulas 
and chain-like groups of islands ; there being of the 
latter (counting as such several huge rocks) one for 
every week in the year. 



^^ THE ADIRONDACKS. 

passes through the village of S^aranae lIS ' ' 
xne Inlet is a wmdinp-, lilv-fleckeH ^.trAot^ oK ^ 

AtTeR^ '"h«^' ^^'"S-g^he w^er fromtou"d Lake' 

At the Rapids, midway between the IflVf^Q fJJo 7 

wuhhfgT;;:t\r^''^^^""^"^^^^^^ 

is^a?1hfT>ot''f? ^^"1^ ^'^^^^ (formerly Bartlett's) 
Round T.kr^?!-'' fortcarrya half mile above 
Kound i^ake. This place is reached in summer o-pti 
era lybywater, although possible to reaTft b? a 
road through the woods on the east side. It is owned 
by a company known as the " Saranac Club '^ with 

Th'e^dub a'^r^'^^^'P-i^'r- 'T^^ sta?ed ob^ectr of 
the club are, primarily, the health, happiness and 

fcT.i.^^'^" ^^^^^^«' b^t while the ^a^ccommoda 

i "n bf keoTon "^'^ ^^ If ?f ^ ^^^^^-^^ forThe du'b 
II ^\ 111 De kept open as a hotel and the public accom- 



THE AOIRONDACKS. 83 

Bartlett Carry extends from the club house, 
something less than a half mile, into the Upper Sara- 

nac. Boat and duffle 
(in the Adirondacks 
everything in the way 
of baggage is ' 'duffle ") 
are carried over on a 
cart, for which the em- 
ployer pays 50 cents. 
Upper Saranac 
Lake is 1,577 feet 
above tide. It is eight 
miles long, measuring 
north and south and 
nearly two miles wide 
at its broadest. 1 1 
discharges toward the 
east from its south end, 
making a rapid de- 
scent of about 35 feet 
in 100 rods, to Bart- 
lett' s. It contains a 
number of islands ; 
those at the south be- 
ing rounded or level; 
those at the north, 
bold and rocky. The 
shores partake of the 
nature of the islands ; 
are thickly wooded, 
and rise into hills, 
which can hardly lay 
claim to the title of 
mountains, but which 
are picturesque and 
attractive. In the dis- 

MAP OF UPPER SARANAC LAKE. 4.„„oo of fh<^ north IS 

(Surveyed by Dr. S. B. Ward.) tance, at the nortn, IS 





.iJ^- 



.M\ 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



85 



St Reds Mountains; away at the east Whitef ace . 
toward the southwest, Ampersand and Seward. Of 
old the route to this lake was generally "^J^fY?^ 
the Lower Scxanac as above described, and it still 
remains a delightful way, but with the opening of the 
A & St L. Railroad the mass of visitors come to 
Saranac Inn Station, thence by stage to the head of 
the lake, and by steamer to the various points on its 

'^'saranac Inn is at the head (north end) of Upper 
Saraifa^ Lake. It will accommodate 125 guests. 
DAV Riddle, manager. P. O. Saranae Inn 
N Y A loop of the telegraph extends to this point 
with office in the hotel. A general ^^VPh^ ^^^^J^'l 
nishes all the necessaries for camp or sport. Guides 
can be engaged th-ough the management. The inn 
is two iSIs from Saranac Inn Station. Stage fare 50 
cents The road runs through a picturesque section 
of the woods, which here in places exist m their 

primeval condition. All the -'^y-^-^^PV^'InTt'he 
wet weather-the road is m good condition and the 
ride a delightful one. By water from Saranac Inn to 
Miller's is 20 miles; to Paul Smith's 10^ miles. 

The house stands on a point extending out mto the 
lake from the north, and commands a broad expanse 
S water with distant mountains, the view equal ed 
nowhere in the Adirondacks, ex^fP^ f^??!^^^^^ %f^ 
land between Mirror Lake and Lake Placid. The 
soil is dry and porous, the peninsula on which the 
house stLds, level, and the forest -hich forms ^^ 
pleasant feature in its surroundings, are grovel ke, 
Resembling a cultivated park m their shadowy depths 
uXritsfresent management the Inn has gained the 
highest praise. The table is exceptionally nice. 

ThTs section is specially attractive to the fisherman, 
belauseTf the muFtitude'of small ponds and s^^-- 
adiacent, there being within a circuit of three miles 



S6 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



?JZ }I-^^^^ ^'^ recognized as among the best 
trout yielding watersof the Adirondacks. For obvious 
reasons the hunter with limited time, will find tWs 
available ground. It is easily reached. An excelW 
house renders the isolated position comfortaWe Jt 
IS well out m that wilderness where, north west and 
south, streams and ponds cover the tract like crvstal 
beads on a net-work of silver. Into this labvrinth 
come the deer wh o delight in still water and thlten^ 

der food grow- 
ing at its edge. 
With them it 
is a favor- 
ite feeding 
groundand 
they find none 
better even in 
the far west. 
This house 
is a favorite 
with Presi- 
dent and Mrs, 
Cleveland, 
and head- 
quarters dur- 
ing their visit 

?o\t I '^^^.f ■' f Alb^^i^riTTT^ii^ar^ -sftor^^^^^^^^^ 
to him the publisher is indebted for a copy of the man 
incorporated in the large map of the wSderness and 

PoirirnS ''■ ?'■ ^^^^'^ ^^-P on MShTm 
lorettvlftfl if ^IP^'^^u'"^''!^^ ^^^ comfortable. A 
n T ^\^= " ""^""'f '''' ^^^'^'^^ b^^k «f the hotel, erected 
m 1885, is open for service during the summer A 

weSoTth'">f'^P''"^P^^^^^^ ^^-P^ are onTebav 
west of the house^, and at various points south. ' 

Steamers " baranac " and " Loon " run (connect- 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 87 

ing with trains) from Saranac Inn to Wawbeek, In- 
dian Carry and Saranac Club dock (Bartlett's) at the 
outlet. 

Hotel "Wawbeek is on the west side of the Upper 
Saranac near its south end. Capacity about 200. 
By stage and boat from Saranac Inn Station, $1.25. 
Harlow H. Chandler, manager. Post Office address, 
Wawbeek, N. Y. ' ' Wawbeek " is Indian for big rock, 
suggested by the huge bowlder lying on the hillside 
there. Hiawatha 
" Sees the masses of the wawbeek lying still in every valley," 

but the weary traveler who sees this Wawbeek finds 
something more satisfying than cold stone to look 
upon. It is of commanding proportions, unique in 
design and pleasing in finish. The public apartments 
are attractive, cosy and ample for all occasions. It 
has telegraph office in the house, electric bells, public 
and private baths, etc. The sleeping rooms are spa- 
cious and with plenty of large windows, lookmg three 
ways and still finding the lake. Its shape is that of a 
Greek cross with the office centrally placed. It is 
nearly surrounded by verandas, presenting sunny 
nooks or cooling shade, according as conditions favor 
or inclination suggests. An immense fire-place in the 
office and smaller ones in other public rooms and in a 
number of the sleeping rooms, insure means of warmth 
in time of frost. Pure water is there, brought into 
the house from a distant spring. Ventilation and per- 
fect drainage gives the best of sanitary conditions. 
A feature of the Wawbeek, much affected by believers 
in the efficacy of out-of-door air, is found in a number 
of commodious tents with carpeted floors and all the 
etceteras of a well furnished bedroom, which will be 
assigned to those who may prefer tent life to the con- 
ventional walls of the hotel. The point is a com- 
manding one, aftording a view which, for diversity 







|g-'s|;«* 






r I 






^' 



M->* 



;/ iiiii 



^' ^ 









THE ADIRONDACKS. 



and extent, is not equalled on any other lake west of 
Lake Placid. A long stretch of water extends toward 
the north ; eastward a deep arm of the lake runs two 
miles away to the outlet, beyond which lie the Middle 
and Lower Lakes. To the south are bold shores and 
the rockv islands that cluster around this end of the 
lake- beyond, the rugged Stoney Creek Mountain, 
blue Ampersand and distant Mount Seward. In the 
foreground are rugged shore features, backward the 
wild almost unbroken forests. Boating, fishing and 
hunting are, of course, the principal amusements 
here, and for such all accessories can be had of the 
house including guides and camp outfit ; but tennis 
and croquette are there also. Mr. Chandler is a new 
comer to the Adirondacks, but does not come unan- 
nounced. While still a young man, he has been asso- 
ciated in the management of sonie of the most noted 
hotels of the country, including that of the Windsor, 
Montreal ; the Ocean House, Newport ; the Everett 
House New York; and later of Laurel-m-the-Pmes, 
at Lakewood, N. J. He will bring some of the best 
families as patrons and will unquestionably add one 
more to the number of Adirondack hotels that may 
with propriety be termed first-class. He has demon- 
strated his fitness as an entertainer, as a host of old 
friends will enthusiastically testify— indeed, his repu- 
tation as an entertainer is not limited to that of land- 
lord alone, if the musical and dramatic critics are to 
be believed. For terms at the Wawbeek see appendix. 
Rustic Lodge is at the south end of the Upper 
Saranac, 2 miles from " Wawbeek," and 3 from Bart- 
lett's. Charles Simpson, proprietor. Boat and stage 
to Saranac Inn Station $1.50. The place is picturesque, 
a combination of log house with additions of later 
styles and a number of detached cottages m a row 
along at the east facing the lake. For rates see ap- 
pendix. 



90 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Indian Carry extends from this point south over 
the divide to Stony Creek Ponds one mile. (Porta2:e 
of boat and luggage 75 cents.) The Hiawatha 

House at the south end of the carry on the north 
side of the first of the Stony Creek Ponds will provide 
for about 35 guests. Warren W. Hale, proprietor. 
Mr. Hale is a newcomer here but from personal 
experience I can unhesitatingly vouch for the 
wholesomeness of the fare as provided in other 
places. Post-office address, Axton, Franklin Co. A 
stage runs daily from the Hiawatha House through 
the woods to Tupper Lake, 12 miles. Fare $2. For 
rates see appendix. 

Stony Creek Ponds are three in number. The 
first and third are small ; the middle one about a mile the 
longest way. Sometimes called "Spectacle" Ponds 
from their fancied resemblance to these useful articles. 
Stony Creek, applied to the outlet of the Ponds, 
is a misnomer. It is about three miles long, slow,' 
sluggish and winding, and difficult of navigation iii 
time of low water. At such times it is advisable to 
continue by road 2 miles from the Hiawatha 
House to the Raquette River. 

Raquette River is one of the most interesting 
streams in the Wilderness. Portions are very 
beautiful and wonderful in their solemn beauty. In 
the shallows it is amber, at a greater depth red, then 
a rich brown, then almost like ink. So still it runs 
that it seems more like a river of black glass than 
water. Great, shaggy, twisted cedars line its banks, 
their branches reaching out and doAxmward toward 
the water, the sides away from the river, limbless and 
verdureless. It has undermined them until they bend 
over and stand curled upward with the even sweep of 
a scimeter, while the smaller limbs, seemingly alarmed 
at their too near approach to the water, turn back 
upon themselves and hang in great hooks and solid 



THE ADIRONDACKS. gl 

festoons from their leaning supports, the whole 
mirrored in the glassy surface where you seem to 
float midway between the heavens above and the 
heavens below. The stream is navigable for boats 
of considerable draft between Long and Tupper 
Lakes. It is probable that in time a line of small 
steamers will run the length of this stream to con- 
nect with steamers on Long Lake for the South- 




up THE RACjyETTE. 

west Lake Region. From where Stony Creek 
enters, it is 9 miles down the river to Sweeney 
Carry and 11 miles further to Tupper Lake. 

Raquette Falls is 7 miles above Stony Creek 
mouth. The water tumbles here about 15 feet. 
Above the Falls is a mile of cascades and rapids. 
Raquette Falls Hotel will furnish dinners at 75 
cents and lodgings if desired. Wm. McClelland, pro- 
prietor. P. O. address, Axton. Here the voyageur 
may be carried over the intervening i \4 miles to navi- 
gable waters above, comfortably seated on a buck- 
board under the shadow of his inverted boat, for the 
sum of 50 cents. Transportation of boat and lug- 
gage will cost 75 cents. Five miles above Raquette 
Falls Cold River, coming down from the heights of 
Mt. Seward on the east, joins the Raquette, fur- 
nishing by far the greater portion of the united streams. 



92 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Something over a mile further is the foot of Long 
Lake, for which see index. 

Sweeney Carry extends from Wawbeek west 
three miles to the Raquette River. For transporta- 
tion of boat and luggage across, the price is $1.50. 
Parties of three can ride over on a buckboard for 50 
cents apiece. 

Tromblee's is on the Raquette, at the west end 
of the Sweeney Carry The house is small, affording 
accommodations for only six or eight people, but it 

gives a very ac- 

ceptable dinner. 

Mail daily through 
the season. Open 
from May ist to 
November. Oliver 
Tromblee, pro- 
prietor. Post-oihce 
address Wawbeek, 
N. Y. Buckboards 
can be had here 
by east-coming 
passengers for the 
three mile trip 
over, and carrying wagons for the boats and luggage. 
See appendix for additional particulars. The river 
above this point is delightfully picturesque, marks of 
the desolation caused by the flooded flats not being so 
apparent here as further down. Trolling for pickerel is 
the popular sport and yields most satisfactory results. 
It is about 8 miles from Tromblee' s Landing by the 
new road to Tupper Lake Station. By river to the 
foot of Tupper Lake the distance is about 1 1 miles. 

Tlie LiOwer Raquette once the most beautiful of 
rivers is to-day a standing protest against the out- 
rages perpetrated in the name of utility — where, as 




AT SWEENEY CARRY. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 93 

le result of draining the streams, a broad stretch 
■ grandly wooded valley, whose equal for quiet 
3auty could be found nowhere else in the whole 
dirondack wilderness, has been alternately flooded 
id drained — that forsooth the logs could be floated 
) market — until the once fragrant and shadowy 
spths is but an expanse of hideous slime-covered flats 

and malaria- 
breeding pits 
where the skele- 
tons of drowned 
trees totter to 
their fall or lie 
? white and ghast- 
"^~^-^ ly on the mirey 
"^ ground. Is the 
-^C-^^^^^^^i preservation o f 
the Adirondacks 
merely a matter 
of sentiment? 
The desolation 
is greatest as the 
)otof Tupper Lake is approached, extending thence 
) Tupper Lake village, the terminus of the Northern 
Adirondack R. R. 

Tupper Lake hangs like a bag on its gathering 
:ring. The Raquette River is the string. It is 1,554 
iet above tide, nearly seven miles long and three 
road. It has 25 islands, some level and covered with 
irifty trees, others barren and rocky, rising steeply 
-om the water. County Island is the largest, being 
early a mile in length, and has on its west side a 
recipice known as the Devil's Pulpit. The surroiind- 
ig country is wild but not grand with mountain 
eights. Mount Morris, at the southeast, is the most 
nportant elevation of the section. Mount Morris 
[ouse is on the east side of the lake near the outlet, 




THE DROWNED LANDS, 



94 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 




— occupanc) 

uncertain al 

this writing. 

Redside Camp, on £ 

high bluff, where Red 
side Brook empties int( 
the lake, is a half mile soutt 
of the Mt. Mcyris House, 
Capacity 50. Opens June 
I St. The house stands ir 
a thrifty grove of second 
growth timber and com- 
mands a wide and beautiful 
view of the lake and the 
country beyond. Martin 
Moody, proprietor. Per- 
haps Mrs. Moody has more 
to do with the providing 
for guests than "Mart," but whoever the responsible 
party may be, they furnish good, wholesome, substan- 
tial fare to make the heart of the hunter and fisherman 
glad. The Post-office called " Moody" is located 
here also, and the proprietor of the house is post- 
master. Mr. Moody has been noted for years as 
*' The Mighty Hunter," and where he fails in know^ 



THE ADIRONDACKS. gi; 

edge as to the best place for game or the best way of 
securing it, there is httle hope that others will succeed. 
See appendix for rates, etc. 

Tupper Lake House is on the west shore of the 
lake near its south end. Capacity 75. Open June 
rst until late into the season of Fall hunting. T. & B. 
Hatch, proprietors. P. O. Tupper Lake House. By 
steamer to station at Tupper Lake, 9 miles, $1. The 
Tupper Lake House is about 35 miles, as we have ap- 
proached from Saranac Lake (village), affording an 
interesting day's trip by row boat, through the Saranac 
Lakes, over Sweeney Carry and down the Raquette 
river. By the opening of the A. & St. L. Railroad 
kvith its splendid train service, passengers can leave 
Mew York by sleeper about six o'clock and reach the 
Fupper Lake House early the next forenoon. Later 
t is expected that stages will run from this point to 
connect with trains at Horseshoe Pond, five miles 
vest, when guests can leave New York in the evening 
md arrive here in time for breakfast. Even under 
he present arrangement it is found a source of con- 
siderable surprise to visitors, who had thought tobur}^ 
hemselves in this far-away corner of the wilderness, 
o find daily mails, and the news of the world in their 
amiliar paper of the day before laid by their plate at 
Unner, and all the necessaries with man}^ of the 
)erishable dainties from the centres of civilization 
ollowing and contributing to their enjoyment of the 
v'oodsy things which nature here so bountifully pro- 
vides. This may be fairly called the geographical 
entre of the lake region. It is on the eastern edge 
if the IVIud Lake country which is probably the least 
:nown and visited of any part of the wilderness. Dr. 
Ufred L. Loomis says it is " the best location for 
port, and as healthful as any in the Adirondacks," 
,nd the Doctor is good authority on both questions, 
^he house is provided with open fire-places in parlor 




!iiiMiiiiiiiiffiSvSi.^aiB,s«i,;'j,t*ifi ., • , .KjiiiiiiiiiiiiiiNiiaiiiiuiyiiiiiiiiDiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii, 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 97 

md principal bedrooms, is lighted with gas, has pure 
spring water brought through pump-logs from a 
nountain spring, and is furnished comfortably and 
mth the best of beds throughout. If the earnest ef- 
[ort of the management can make a resort pleasant 
md agreeable, no place in the Wilderness can rank 
ligher than the Tupper Lake House, which is saying ' 
1 good deal. A supply and provision store gives New 
york goods at New York retail prices with the cost of 
transportation only added. The " Lakeside Club," 
3f New York, comes here annually and occupy rooms 
in house owned by members and set aside for their 
special service. For rates and other particulars see 
appendix. 

Bog River Falls comes picturesquely dowm over 
the face of the broken rocks at the head of the lake. 
A. ruined saw -mill here marks the site of a past "effort" 
representing a considerable town with public squares 
and buildings — on paper. Little Tupper Lake is 
an easy half day's journey at the south, the most 
tedious part of this way being the two-mile carry from 
Bog River into Round Pond, where the thrifty 
wagoner will charge you $2 for boat and luggage. 
A. little house furnishes accommodations to such as 
may need. Be3^ond, by boat and trail, the Raquette 
Lake region is reached. 

* * -Jv- * * * * 

Tupper Lake Village, terminus of the N. A. R. 
R. , IS on Raquette Pond, which was created by a 
dam built two miles below Tupper Lake, to facili- 
.ate lumbering in this section. The town is a revelation 
of sudden growth, reminding one of those marvelous 
western towns that seem to spring up almost in a 
night ; interesting to visit but not a place where the 
Adirondack visitor would ordinarily care to remain 
for long. When John Hurd built his road south to 
this point to subserve his vast lumber interests, thi^. 



gS THE ADIKUNDACKS. 

was practically virgin forest. The first train ran 
through July i st, 1 890. Now there are grouped about its 
terminus a hundred and fifty buildings of various sizes 
and conditions, churches, hotels, (Hotel Altamont is 
the best here,) three school houses, and two steam 
saw-mills, with capacity for sawing 245,000 feet of 
lumber per day. A steamboat runs from this 
point to the various hotels on Tupper Lake, fare 50 
cents to $1. Through train service from New York 
is maintained here during the season over the A. & 
St. L. R. R. The Nortliern Adirondack Rail- 
road reaches to this point from Moira (Gateway 14) 
13 miles west of Malone on the O. & L. . C. 
The distance is 56 




miles. The Blue Moun- 
tain House (P. O. Santa 
Clara), near Blue Mountain 
of the North, is four miles 
southwest of Spring Cove, 
27 miles from Moira (daily 
stage 75 cents); will accom- 
modate 50. Board is 
about $6 to $9 per week. 
H. Phelps, proprietor. Ex- 
cept the Blue Mountain 
region there is little of in- 
terest in Gateway 14. Tht 
railroad was built as £ 
meansof reaching the val- 
uable lumber of this north- 
ern region and was pushed 
splendid energy — which would have been 
but for the irreparable injury it has 



with 

admirable 

worked — right into the heart of the wilderness to lay 

waste and destroy. Not only has the great timber 

that once stood along the line gone but the smallei 

trees are now rapidly disappearing into the insati- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



go 



able maw of the ill-smelling charcoal kilns, • which 
form a valuable part of the equipment of this road. 
With the openmg of the A. & St. L. , this line forms 
no necessary part of the way to important points. 
**'** * * * * * 

Childwold (station) is on the A. & St. L. R. R. , 

about six miles west of Tupper Lake. The road runs 
through a magnificent forest of hard wood. A plank 
road extends from the station north to Massawepie 
Lake, the fountain head of Grass River, one of the 
best trout streams in northern New York, and a noted 
resort for deer Mr. Addison Child, to whom this sec- 








\ 



tion owes much of its prosperity, and Mr. Henry G. 
Dorr, of Boston, together, own the whole western 
half of township 6, and have preserved under the 
state law, with the title of Massawepie Park, 



THE ADIRONDACKS. lOI 

a game and pleasure park of 5,000 acres, embracing 
Lake Massawepie and six contributary sheets of water 
that encircle it. 

Cliildwold Park House and cottags stand on 
the east shore of Massawepie Lake, five miles north 
of Childwold Station. Accommodations for 300 guests. 
Wm. F. Ingold, of the Magnolia Springs Hotel, 
Florida, is manager and deservedly successful, bring- 
ing to the work not only energy and experience but a 
commendable enthusiasm that exalts the science of 
hotel keeping into the realms of high art. »The house 
stands on high ground considerably above the 
water, with piazzas on three sides, and a belvedere, 
rising 78 feet above the lake. It is flanked by a num- 
ber of attractive Queen Anne cottages in the service 
of the hotel. It has natural attractions of broken and 
picturesque wilderness surroundings, and a broad, 
beautiful lake with numerous small ponds adjacent. 
Boats, hunting and fishing supplies, can be obtained 
here with competent men for camp or trail. This 
place with the opening of the A. & St. L. Railroad 
has been made easily accessible. Convenient service 
is maintained from New York and Boston. Wagner 
sleeping cars run from both cities every week day 
(Sunday, also, from New York,) to Childwold Station 
without change. Stage fare from station to hotel, 
$1, including baggage. An illustrated pamphlet 
will be sent free on application to the manager. For 
rates and additional particulars see appendix. 

The Pond Vie-w House is on the east shore of 
Catamount Pond (See map), with capacity for 100; 
House open the 3^ear round. E. P. Gale, proprietor. 
This was noted for years as a house of entertainment 
for sportsmen. Later it has been provided with mod- 
ern conveniences — which the hardy sportsman of old 
did not consider necessary to his comfort or happiness 
— and provisions made to meet the more exacting ra- 



I02 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

quirements of tourists and summer visitors. Boats 
and competent guides can be secured here and all the 
necessaries of hunting and fishing can be furnished 
by the proprietor. A large farm connected with the 
hotel supplies fresh milk and eggs, with vegetables in 
their season. The Post Office, known as Gale, is in 








4' 







t-Qj- ^^-K, 




W^ 



one of the buildings connected with the house, and 
the proprietor of the house is postmaster. The place 
as a whole presents an appearance of rustic comfort, 
w^hich with the reasonable terms offered msures a very 
satisfactory patronage. For price of board etc., see 
Appendix. Six miles southwest is Childwold Station. 

One and one-half mile east of Gale is Downey's 
I^andins which is eight miles below RaquettePond. 
Ten below Tupper Lake village. The stream is nav- 
igable from above to this point (except for short carries 
around falls and rapids,) and may be "done for 
pleasure or in case of dire necessity. 

This section can be reached via Potsdam (Gate- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



103' 



way No. 13). There are small houses at intervals 
along the road and river, where entertainment can be 
had at from $1 to $1.50 per 
day. The Forest House is 
at Stark's Falls, 22 miles from 
Potsdam. The Jordan 
House is six miles farther, 
opposite the mouth of the Jor- 
dan River. The " Kildare 
Club," of New York, composed 
of members of the Vanderbilt 
family and friends, has a hunt- 
ing lodge near Jordan Lake 
|p ^g ^O»'^^ ,^\<^ ^f^^Hj and- a park of several thousand 
P^^j i^o^^ ^^ 1 acres surrounding it. Kildare 
P"^"*"l ' Station, on the N. A. Railroad 

and a new road thence to Jordan Lake are for the 
special accommodation of the club. Childwold is 
36 miles from Potsdam. It has an elevation of about 
1,450 feet above tide in a belt of good agricultural land 
on which a colony of farmers are thriving. Three 
miles farther south are Childwold Park House and 
Gale. 






\^. I*g?-^ 



^'W 







CHAPTER V. 

Lake Placid, North Elba and 
Clear Lake. 

THE new Saranac Lake and Lake Placid Railroad 
will be hailed with delight by visitors to Placid. 
The distance is g^ miles from Saranac Lake to the 
terminus at North Elba, about one mile south of the 
village of Lake Placid. It M'ill have three rails, and 
trains on the Chateaugay and the A. & St. L. Rail- 
roads will go through without change. The fare from 
New York is $9.80; excursion rate $17.75. Stage to 
Lake Placid hotels, 50 cents. While forming a part 
of the two lines by which Lake Placid is reached, this 
section is owned by an independent corporation of 
which C. E. Arnold, of Albany, is president. 

Ray Brook House is three miles east of Saranac 
Lake. Open all the year. Duncan Cameron, pro- 
prietor. Post Office (Ray Brook) and telegraph office 
are in the hotel. There is an air of roominess and 
generous space in the proportions of this house, as 
compared with the restricted quarters in some sum- 
mer hotels, that is quite taking to the average seeker 
after rest. The fare will be found like generous and 
satisfactory. The house is well furnished, substantial 
and wholesome throughout. Of special interest is the 
brook that gives name to the house, and the adjacent 
ponds, belonging to the proprietor, who has stocked 
them with trout, and holds them as a preserve for 
the use of himself and guests, affording excellent 
sport at all seasons. Guests given to angling will find 
a kindred spirit in the proprietor who is an enthusiast 



106 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

and an expert in that line. Camp supplies can be 
found here and good serviceable teams for long or 
short drives to other hunting or fishing resorts. 
Trains on the new road will stop close by Ray Brook. 
Carriage to the house, free. For rates and additional 
particulars see appendix. 

At Nortli Elba stages are taken for Lake Placid, 
Adirondack Lodge, Ames' and Cascade Lakes. The 
Elba House, near the station, will provide for a lim- 
ited number. 

Lake Placid (village) is the outgrowth of a senti- 
ment — love of the beautiful in nature. Not that its 
existence argues necessarily that all who live there 
are dominated by this idea, but those who come from 
afar must be cared for, and the village that has grown 
up here is the result. When, in 1873, the writer first 
visited Lake Placid, the old Lake Placid House, known 
generally as "Brewster's," and "Nash's," the little 
red farm house, still standing at the lake shore south- 
east of the Stevens House, were the only habitations 
in this section. Now a thrifty village with churches 
and schoolhouses line the shores of Mirror Lake and 
the road to the south, while summer cottages and 
princely hotels bid welcome to a host of summer vis- 
itors. Mirror Lake, along the ^^•est side of which 
the village has grown to about one mile long by one- 
third of a mile wide. 

Lake Placid (the watery part thereof) is over at 
the north, and, although distant from Mirror Lake but 
a little way, the two are effectually separated by a 
ridge that runs between. It is an oblong, something 
over four miles in length and about two broad, meas- 
uring through or between the islands, of which there 
are three, called respectively Hawk, Moose and Buck. 
Hawk is small, but Moose and Buck are large, beau- 
tiful islands in a line from the first toward the south- 
west, the three dividing the sheet into what are 



THE ADIROXDACICS. 



107 




locally known asthe " East" 
and ' ' West " lakes. Its al- 
titude is 1,863 feet above 
tide. 

Mirror Lake Hotel 
is the tirst of the great 
houses as we approach from 
the south. Capacity 300. 
C. E. Martin, manager. 
This hotel has all the ma- 
chinery of a first-class house. It stands at the south 
end of Mirror Lake, commanding a view of theentire 
lake towards the east and north, the picturesque vil- 
lage of Lake Placid straggling along its shores, a bit 




>.\^f^r\ 









^i^ 



W 



' "^,lf 



i ^fKy^-^^'^*' 



THE ADIRONDACKS. IO9 

of Lake Placid itself, and Whiteface Mountain be- 
yond, while, stretched along the southern sky is seen 
the grand panorama of mountain peaks. It is a 
roomy structure, with the necessary comforts of the 
great hotel of the day. It has ample piazzas and 
public rooms, electric light and steam heat. It is 
furnished richly and comfortably. It has spacious 
halls and sleeping rooms with high ceilings ; is 
capable of thorough ventilation and is un.er the 
most perfect of sanitary regulations. Within, are 
billiards and bowling ; without, all of the amusements 
common to outdoor life are at command. Here grace- 
giving tennis and the more sedate croquet claim each 
their admirers ; those who would row or fish can be 
provided with all that is necessar}'- for comfort or 
pleasure, while riding and driving, staple amusements 
the world over, may be indulged in, for saddle horses 
and every class of vehicle common to the mountains, 
are found in the hotel livery. There is a telegraph 
office in the hotel and mails come and go twice a day. 
This property is owned by the Lake Placid Hotel 
Company, of which the manager is a director. Paul 
Smith is also a shareholder. Paul Smith's reputation 
as a hotel man extends wherever the Adirondack wil- 
derness is known. The famous hotel at St. Regis 
Lake has been celebrated for 3'ears as the fashional3le 
resort of the wilderness. Years ago when in its early 
prime, and almost the only hotel of note in the wil- 
derness, a boy started in its service, who, with the in- 
quisitiveness of a boy, and the determination of a 
growing man to know everything to be learned about 
a great hotel, served faithfully until every depart- 
ment was as familiar to him as A, B, C, of schoolboy 
days. Eventually a great share in the management 
of the old house fell to his lot until other hands came 
to relieve him, when, after nearly 25 years of faithful 
service, he graduated to take upon himself larger re- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. HI 

5ponsibilities in different fields. This boy is the pres- 
ent manager of the Mirror Lake Hotel, and a host ot 
Eriends who remember his uniform courtesy and genial 
ways in the office of the old St. Regis Lake House, 
testify now to the splendid success of his later venture. 
To Mr Martin's indomitable pluck and enterprise is 
also due the new railroad which now reaches from 
Saranac Lake to this point, for which he labored per- 
sistently until it became an assured fact; while a road 
to the summit of Whiteface Mountain, the niost beau- 
tiful and diverse outlook in the Adirondacks is but a 
question of the near future. Title has been acquired 
bv Mr. Martin and others and the construction of the 
road only a question of time. For rates at the Mirror 
Lake House and additional particulars see appendix. 
12 3 4 5 6 




THE GREAT PEAKS FROM LAKE PLACID. 

I Gothic. 2 Saddleback. 3 Basin. 4 Marcy. 5 Golden. 6 Mclntire. 

Tlie Grand View House stands on the high 
ground rising west of Mirror Lake. Recent additions 
gives it capacitv for over 200 guests. For rates, 
etc. see appendix. Henry Allen, proprietor. Mr. 
Allen is pleasant, agreeable and obhgmg. The man- 
agement is unconventional, ergo, popular. The house 
is appropriately enough named the "Grand ^ lew, 
for not only does it command the view north, east and 
south, common to other hotels here, but also the quiet 
of spreading forests towards the west and the moun- 







STEVENS HOUSE . 



THE ADIRONDACKS. II 3 

tains that lie about far-away Saranac Lake. It is 
nicely furnished, its beds are the best. Pure spring 
water is brought through pipes into the house. Its 
commanding position renders drainage easy and 
thorough. It has its own telegraph office connected 
with the regular line, and has livery accommodations 
such as may be found at all good hotels. It is kept 
open also as a winter resort. Large stoves and open 
fireplaces are in the main rooms, double windows have 
been provided and the large piazza enclosed with glass. 
The Stevens House built in 1886 is on the high 
land that separates Mirror Lake from Lake Placid. J. 
A. & G. A. Stevens, proprietors. This is one of the 
great hotels of the Adirondacks. It has a front of 
over 200 feet, is four stories high, with piazzas on 
every side, affording choice of wind or sun, and with 
annex and cottages affords accommodations for nearly 
400. The parlors and dining-room have each an 
area of about 3,000 square feet. It is lighted by elec- 
tricity. A hydraulic pump forces water to all parts 
of the house, and with hose attachment, is guard 
against possible fire. The bedding, carpets, etc, , came 
from Arnold, Constable & Co. The beds are of woven 
wire, and with hair mattresses. The sanitary condi- 
tions are believed to be perfect. Telegraph office in 
the house. This house stands 200 feet above Lake 
Placid whose surface is 1,863 feet above tide and com.- 
mands undoubtedly the most comprehensive view of 
any hotel in the Adirondacks. To the energy and far- 
sightedness of the proprietors, who were the pioneers 
in the new Lake Placid, is due much of the prosperity 
of this place. They have triumphed over fire and 
tornado and their house is an assured success. Per- 
sonally they are deserving of success. The senior mem- 
ber of the firm is an acknowledged authority on hunt- 
ing matters to whom even the guides defer, and 
the junior, fresh from legislative honors, has no 



:. l!'. 
















THE ADIRONDACKS. II5 

reason to doubt the estimation in which he is 
held by his fellow townsmen. The Messrs Ste- 
vens are owners of considerable real estate lying 
along shore and between Mirror Lake and Lake 
Placid. This property has been laid out in building 
lots. Several cottages stand here, others will be built 
soon, and, in the near future, one may reasonably ex- 
pect to see this entire slope occupied by elegant villas 
or cozy cottages, as individual taste may dictate. 
This is a very desirable place for a summer cottage, 
being sightly and cool ; while its elevated position and 
the nature of the soil j^laces it above any suggestion 
of unwholesome air or conditions. 

Furnislied Cottages and camps and camp or 
cottage sites, fronting directly on the lake, may also 
be obtained on very reasonable terms by applying to 
Clarence M. Noble, at Lake Placid, or at loo Broad- 
vv'ay. New York City. 

Tlie Lake Placid House is at the head of ]\Iir- 
ror Lake, east of the Stevens House. Open June ist. 
G. W. Baldwin, proprietor. See appendix for par- 
ticulars. 

The Rouisseaumont is on the east shore of Lake 
Placid. Capacity 200. T. Edmund Krumbholz, man- 
ager. The house was built and opened first in 1S92. 
It is in a niche carved out of the virgin forest, stand- 
ing on high ground which slopes rapidly down from 
it to the lake shore. Facing westerly, it looks out 
across the broad lake between the southern peninsula 
and Moose Island. It was built and furnished with 
the idea- of making it one of the most complete hotels 
in the Adirondacks. The manager, late manager at 
Hotel Wawbeek, ranks high as an entertainer. Stages 
run to and from all trains. P. O. Lake Placid. For 
additional particulars see appendix. 

White Face Inn is on the west shore of Lake 
Placid almost directly opposite the Rouisseaumont. 



Il6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Capacity 135. Mrs. M. S. Elmendorf, manager. Post 
Office, White Face, Essex Co., N. Y. The house is 
about 40 feet above the surface of the Lake, almost 
surroundedby native forest trees. In front, abroad 
passage leads into the East Lake. Through this is seen 
the striking bluff known as the Devil's Pulpit, the 
mountains around Wilmington Pass, and in the dis- 
tance, Marcy and other peaks. The West Lake, stretch- 
ing northeast, forms the middle ground of a picture of 
which the distance is the rugged and noble contour of 
Whiteface~a view pronounced by many the finest of 
this famous peak. Behind and on either hand is the 
forest into which run pleasant walks and bridle paths, 
one of the latter extending to the top of Colborn Peak, 
a half mile distant. The house is three stones, 
with spacious rooms, and wide, double piazzas on 
the north, south and east sides. Additional guests' 
rooms are in a line of connecting cottages at the north. 
Mrs. M. S. Elmendorf, who so successfully conducted 
the old Lake Placid House for a number of seasons, has 
likewise made a success here. It is designed to make 
this a first-class house in all respects, as it has a back- 
ing 5 among influential people which makes such a 
result possible, even if the experience of the present 
manager is not a guarantee that whatever is undertaken 
will be accomplished in the best of shape. Camp Pina- 
fore just north of White Face Inn, owned by E. D. 
Bartlett, is one of the most complete and artistic camps 
of the wilderness. Castle Rustic© on the west shore 
opposite Moose Island is an immense structure of 
logs, rough outside and rustic in finish. W. F. Leggett, 
proprietor. It is open for the entertainment of guests. 
For rates apply to the proprietor. 

Under-ClifF is on the west shore well up towards 
the head of the lake. The woods here are unbroken save 
an opening among the trees just sufficient to give 
place for the various little buildings and the larger 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



117 



central one made common for all guests. Back towards 
the west stretches the virgin forest climbing to the 
top of Mt. ]McKenzie. Nearby are pleasant coves and 
streams and woodsy paths. Nature made the place 
charming with many desirable features and an eviron- 
ment of lovely things; a lover of nature has beautified 



EW?W7^' 





UNDER-CUFF 



it and made it available. Dr. Charles D. Alton, of 
Hartford, Connecticut, is the magician, and his magic 
wand has opened up one of the charming places of 
this region. Originally the summer camp of a physi- 
cian who felt the need of occasional rest from pro- 
fessional duties it came about that it was often occu- 
pied by patients who were friends as well, then by 
others who were not patients, but were attracted by 
the beauties of the place and the geniality of the host, 
until, making a virtue of what seemed almost a 
necessity, the camp was thrown open to the public 
generally, and as such became a success, with only 
so much of the sanitarium about it, as must exist 
where the controlling spirit unites an enthusiasm for 
tiis profession with a natural love for healthful out- 
door sports. Under the Doctor's care it grew from a 



TI& THE ADIRONDACKS. 

single camp to a little village of tents and rustic cot- 
tages, with a larger central building and assembly 
room, resembling some of the larger private camps 
of note in the Adirondacks. In the words of Dr. 
Alton, "The beef, ironand wine of nature's laboratory 
are here ; ozone and electrical change without measure," 
and in addition will be found a very satisfactory bill 
of fare with other things in keeping. Address until 
July I, Hartford, Conn. Through the summer address 
at Lake Placid. Chubb River, the outlet of Lake 
Placid, runs toward the southwest, and in circling 




around towards the east approaches quite near to 
Paradox Pond, and soon after joins with the Au Sable 
to pass through Wilmington Notch. 

Whiteface Mountain stands in the north at 
the head of Lake Placid, pyramidal in form, its 
base thickly clothed with spruce and balsam, its head 
of naked granite, seamed with deep rifts, rugged and 
broken in outline. Early in Autumn and late in 
Spring, it wears its white hood of snow, that obviously 
earned for it its name of "Whiteface" from the Indian. 
Its summit is 3,008 feet above Lake Placid — 4,871 feet 
above the ocean. The ascent is made by leaving the 
lake at its head and following a precipitous trail 3 
miles to the summit. Trails also run from Wilming- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



119 



ton at the northeast, and from Franklin Falls, at the 
northwest It affords unquestionably the hnest moun- 
tain view in the Adirondacks, giving in different quar- 
ters cultivated valley and lowland, at the north 
and' east- broken mountain ranges at the south, and 
the broad lake-spangled region toward the west, 
with beautiful Lake Placid like a mirror at its feet. 
^ * * * * * 

" John Brown's body lies a-moulderingjin the grave, 
And his soul goes marching on. —Old ^ong. 
John Brown, "The old man of Osawatomie, 
came to North Elba and secured a large tract of land 
proposing to es- 
tablish a home 
which should be 
a refuge for the 
persecuted 
black, and here 
undoubtedly ma- 
tured the plot by 
which negro 

slavery was to be 

wiped out in the 

blood of white 

men. Here he 

gathered quite a 

company about 

him, then in the 

fullness of time — 

October 17; 1859- 

at Harper's Fer- 
ry, struck the 

first hard blow at 

slavery in this 

country which, 

like the smell of 

blood to wild 

beasts, rendered 




c/^rrryiy 



I20 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

any settlement of the question short of a resort to arms 
impossible. The whole is history now. There were 
22 in all, white and black, with the old man when he 
opened fire. When he was forced to surrender, one 
son was among the dead, a second lay mortally 
wounded by his side. Condemned and hanged as one 
of the greatest criminals of the age, yet, when his 
body was borne north to be buried at his old home 
among the mountains it was as a triumphal march, 
for cities were draped in mourning, and bells tolled 
all along the way ! And here one terribly cold day in 
bleak December a few who had loved the old man laid 
his body away in the frozen ground, for he had said 
' ' when I die, bury me by the big rock where I love to 
sit and read the word of God." Then his large family 
was dispersed, the widow finally selling the farm 
of 244 acres for $800. Later, Kate Field made a pil- 
grimage to the grave and told the story, and eighteen 
New York men and one Boston woman added a hun- 
dred dollars each that the John Brown farm and grave 
might be secured to the public forever. The names 
are Kate Field, Isaac H. Bailey, John E. Wil- 
liams, William H. Lee, George A. Robbins, George 
Cabot Ward, Henry Clews, Randolph Martin, Le 
Grand B. Cannon, Chas. S. Smith, S. B. Chittenden, 
Isaac Sherman, Jackson S. Schultz, Elliott C. Cowdin, 
Thomas Murphy, Charles G. Judson, Laken H. Wales, 
Sinclair Tousey, Horace B. Claflin and "a Boston 
woman." •• 

The Jolin Brown Farm is about two miles south- 
east of Lake Placid. A half mile drive through the 
open lane and field, brings you to the house and 
grave. The house is weather-beaten and old, but if 
you want a wholesome country meal you can get it 
there, and lodging also in an old-fashioned country 
bed at a moderate price, with most cheerful attendance 
to your other wants. If you desire a souvenir of the 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 121 

3lace in line of photograph or book, you will find them 
lere in various forms with maple sugar always m sea- 
son, and a flower, perhaps, from beside the Big Rock 
:hat bears across its face in great letters, Jotm 

^ The Grave is marked by an old, time-stained head- 
stot^e which once did duty over the 
remains of John Brown's grandfather 
in old Massachusetts. The corners 
are chipped off and defaced so that 
parts of the letters are lost. The upper 
half is in the quaint characters of " ye 
olden time," the lower of a more re- 
cent date ; the face bears the follow- 
•ng inscription : 

" In memorv of capt'" John Brow 

Who Died At^ Newyork Sep' Ye 3 

1776 in the 42 year of his Age. ,,j,f 

"John Brown Born May 9 y^oo %uas executed af 

Charleston, Va, Dec. 2. i^S9-^' 

" Oliver Brown Born Mar. 9, 1S39, ^'^^-^ ^^^^'^ '■^^ 
Harpers Ferry Oq^. i7- 18 59-" 
On the back is the following : 

- In memory of Frederick son of John and Dianth 
Brown, Born Dec 21. 1830 and murdered at O^awa- 
tomie, Kansas. Aug 30, 1856 for his adherence to the 

cause of Freedom." „/i^/i 

"Watson Brown, Born Oct 7, 1S35 ,^vas wounded 

at Harpers Ferry & died Oct. 19, 1859. 

Beside the older is a ngwer grave containing the 
body of Watson Brown, brought here and laid near 
the father, October 12, 1S82, after remaining unburied 
for nearlv twenty-three years. Considered by the ^ 
thoritiesof Yireinia simplv as that of a criminal it 
wasTven afte?death to the Medical College at Wm- 
chester, and there preserved as an anatomical speci- 



122 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

men — the mother appealing in vain for the privilege 
of giving it Christian burial. Later, when tlie 
town was occupied by the Union forces, it was carried 
off by an Indiana surgeon, and kept by him as a curi- 
osity, until in 1SS2, when he informed the survivors 
of its whereabouts and offered to restore it for more 
decent interment. From Indiana the poor buffeted 
body went to the mother in Ohio, and finally here, 
and laid to restbesid® the " big rock," where he had 
played as a boy while learning strange theories of 
"duty." 

A wooden box covers the headstone, secured by 
lock and key ordinarily, to protect it from the relie 
hunter who usually comes with a hammer and a chisel. 
The box will be removed to allow of the inspection of 
the stone by the visitor, and of course the visitor will 
not allow the little attention to go unrewarded. 



Mm^m''-^'^!:,.. _ 




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Ames' Mountain View House is 41^ miles east 
of Lake Plalacid Station, Will accomodate about 35 
guests. Mrs. M. S. Ames & Son, poprietors. P. O., 
Cascadeville. Telegrph in the house. This house 
has earned a well-deserved reputation for homelike 
comfort and hospitality, and in addition to considera- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. la') 

)le transient custom, gets its full quota of those who, 
or sanitary reasons, seek the healing air of this high 
)lain. The accommodations are good, the fare whole- 
iome and satisfying, and the service very pleasant 
md agreeable. 

Cascade Lake House is 4 miles east of Ames', 
Capacity 100. For rates and particulars see appen- 
Ux. E. M. Weston, proprietor. P. O. Cascadeville. 
rhe hotel and its accompanying buildings is "Cas- 
:adeville." It stands on about the only available land 
ound in the notch between the Upper (west) 
md Lower Cascade Lakes, opposite the Cascade 
^•hich, in the rainy season is a torrent, in time of 
Lrouth a tiny thread hanging down over the face of 
he cliff a thousand feet above. Stage passengers 
isually stop here for dinner in entering or going out 
)y way of Westport. 

Cascade Lakes are 2,038 feet above tide lying 
>etween Long Pond Mountain, which rises abruptly 
.long their south side and Pitchoff Mountain on the 
lorth, the road passing east along the north side on the 
hbris that has fallen from the cliffs above. Origin- 
,lly one lake it has been bridged by the matter brought 
Lown by Cascade Brook to form two. The Upper 
vake is i^ of a mile long. The Lower, much nar- 
ower, is something over a mile in extent. Both are 
.eep in places and quite noted for trout. East of 
'ascade Lakes the road finds its way down into 
[eene Valley and places better reached from Gateway 
^o. 3. 

Soutb From Ames' the view is one of singular 
leauty and breadth. The land slopes away dowTi 
ito the valley, then rises in long, sweeping lines to 
he foothills, thence to higher ridges and peaks, and 
nally to the grand heights of Mclntire, the central 
gure in this mountain picture, flanked as it is by 




ADIRONDACK LODGI 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 25 

Wallface on the west guarding the famous Indian 
Pass, and Mt. Colden on the east across the wild 
notch where repose the waters of Avalanch Lake. 
Outhned against the broad chest of Mclntire — in re- 
aHty a spur from its side — is a lower summit, Mt. Jo, 
sometimes called the Bear. Between this and the 
main mountain, more than 2,000 feet above tide, rests 
Clear Lake, a lovely sheet of water of about 30 
acres in extent, with shores of white sand and a bor- 
der of shrubs and trees remainmg in all their native 
beauty. 

Adirondack Lodge is here, nine miles from Lake 
Placid Station. Capacity 100. (For rates and other 
particulars see appendix.) Henry Van Hoevenbergh, 
proprietor. P. O. North Elba. To get here, drive 
nearly 4 miles east from the station (to a point J^:^ mile 
west of Ames') and turn south in a road which will 
take you by open field two miles, then through dense for- 
ests three more, to your destination. Guide boards 
every half mile measure the distance as you go. The 
"Lodge" stands on the east shore of Clear Lake al- 
most hidden among the trees save where its high ob- 
servation tower lifts its head above their tops. The 
Lodge is one of the most tmique and picturesque 
structures in the country ; a resort for nature's lovers, 
where nature's handiwork has been respected. It is 
of logs, 96 feet front, 36 feet deep, and three stories 
high, with a rear wing of almost equal size. Forming 
a part of the building is the substantial tower, also of 
logs, rising above the tree tops and affording such a 
view as can be found at no other house in the Adiron- 
dacks, for with a widely extended vision, no sign of 
civilization can be discerned. A broad piazza sur- 
rounds the lower portion of the house, its upper deck 
reached from the rooms above or by rustic outside 
stairs. Everything about the house or grounds evin- 
ces the cultivated taste of the owner, for the sama 



126 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

sentiment that protected hoary tree and gracefuj 
shrub alike, made cunning joints among the logs, and 
left their rugged bark intact so that every pilaster, 
balustrade or railing is still clothed in the rich brown 
covering that nature gave it. Within, the same good 
taste prevails. The walls are plastered, to be svire, 
and noise-deadened, but paint and Brussels carpeting 
are tabooed as not in keeping with the place. The 
furniture is of hard wood, plain and substantial. The 
beds are of the best. Fireplaces make the principal 
rooms comfortable on occasion. An electric annun- 
ciator puts sleeping rooms and office in communica- 
tion. The windows are large single panes of plate 
glass in swinging sash. A well at the door with old- 
fashioned wheel and bucket furnishes the best tonic 
to be found here — or anywhere else. A lawn tennis 
and croquet ground is in an opening near the lake ; 
swings and arbors among the trees, and boats on the 
water afford means of quiet comfort and amusement. 
During the season a stage runs regularly to the 
railroad or to connect with the regular line at the 
Transfer Station. Guides, tents and suitable cloth- 
ing for camp or tramp may be obtained at the house. 
Trails to the wild lakes of the deeper forests and 
to the summits of the mountains radiate from this point. 
To the top of Mount Jo. is a fifteen minute scram- 
ble — and a breath-taking one it is as you near the 
summit, too, — but from the outlook is seen one of the 
most charming low mountain views known to the 
writer. To Indian Pass ( Summit Rock) is 6 miles, 
from which point Lake Henderson,— 5 miles beyond 
and 1,300 feet below — can be seen. Close by Lake 
Henderson is the ' ' Ruined Village " now^ headquarters 
of the Adirondack Club. To the top of Mount 
Marcy the distance is 73^ miles. To top of Mcln- 
tire about 43^ miles ; between the two is Mt. 
Oolden, a cone-like peak with the silvery 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



127 



rack of the avalanche down its western face. 

Avalanche Lake the wildest lake in the woods, 

ies between Mt, Mclntire and Mt. Golden, 5 miles 



•'I 1. 



f; 






from Adirondack 
Lodge. Its altitude 
is 2, S46 feet above tide. 
Its waters are cold and 
deep. It is a half-mile 
in length and but a 
W v?^ ^ few rods wide, the dark 

V, reck rising almost per- 

pendicular for many 
feet upward on either 
side. The trail, such as 
it is, runs along the west 
side, at one point de- 
scending to the water's 
edge, the place rendered 
passable by means of a 
floating log anchored 
alongside the vertical 
wall. A remarkable 
rap dike here shows a section of Mount Golden, split 
lownward for a thousand feet, its out-flowing rocks 
learly bridging the lake. 

Lake Colden is a half mile south of the foot of 
Vvalanche Lake. Between the two is a small moun- 
ain of debris which came down the side of Mount 
!;^olden in some ancient land-slide, imprisoning the 
vaters of the upper lake. This probably, next to 
Vvalanche Lake, gives the wildest water view in the 
vilderness. Its outlet is through the Opalescent 
^iver which, lower down, becomes the North River, 
md still lower, the Hudson. On the west shore is a 
og house belonging to the Adirondack Glub where a 
•orester is kept to guard the interests of the Associa- 
;ion and see that laws respecting the preservation of 




AVALANCHE LAKE FROM NORTH, 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I2g 

game and fish are properly carried out. North of this 
log camp a few rods, is an open camp where parties 
going or comin may make themselves reasonably 
comfortable for the night. 

Marcy Trail leads past the foot of Lake Golden. 
Adirondack "The Ruined village" is 7 miles west. 
The "round trip" from Adirondack Lodge is as we 
have come to this point thence west to the Ruined 
dllage and back to the Lodge through Indian Pass — 
a, total of about 25 miles. The trip should be broken 
by stopping over at the Club House at Adirondack, 
where entertainment can be had for a night. 

Mount Marcy (summit) is 5 miles from the foot of 
Lake Golden. The trail is quite difficult in places 
leading up along the little stream which is the outlet 
3f Lake Tear-of-the-Clouds resting something 

_ over a half-mile 

from the top of 
Mount Marcy 
and 4,321 feet 
above tide. This 
is the highest 
body of flowing- 
water in the 
State and the 
pond-source of 
the Hudson 
river. It is but 
a few rods in 
extent, sur- 
rounded by a 
coarse bog, 
:remulous over unknown depths of black muck. Its 
evel floor is black as ink, thinly covered with the clear 
kvater through which occasionafsnail-shells shine white 
IS snow. About the little pool, stunted trees make an 
unequal fight for life against the cold. A little higher on 




LAKE TEAR-OF-THE-CLOUDS. 



^30 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

the moantain the fight is given up and at the top onh 
lichens and hardy Alpine grasses find refuge in she! 
tered places. If breathless and athirst when near tb 

i^^^i ^T ^''^■S!'^ T ^^^ ^'^^^ ^^^^ ^ ^"-'Se pocket in th( 
rock filled with soft, spongy moss. Press the mos' 
aside and the space will be full of pure cold water 
The upper thousand feet is bare. It is naked rock the 
farthest down on the south-west side ; the west side ha< 
more the appearance of a hillside pasture than - 
mountain above vegetation, its partial covering oi 
Alpine grasses and other plants giving it that appear- 
ance. The ascent of Marey may be madJ froi 
Adirondack Lodge which is nearest of any house 
of entertainment, 714 miles distant ; from Keene Val- 
ley by way of John's Brook (12 miles) or the Au 
bable Lakes or from the " Ruined Village " at the 
Adirondack Iron Works. The last two routes unite 
near Lake Tear-of-the-Clouds. It will not be advis- 
able to make the ascent from any direction without a 
guide, although it is possible for those accustomed to 
mountain climbing and mountain trails to do so 
Those who know all about it will need no advice • 
those who do not, will need a guide as no amount of 
written directions will suffice. Another bit of advice ' 
Take two days for the trip, and plenty of provisions 
and blankets, and camp out somewhere on the M^av— 
your guide will know where. 

The Summit of Marey is of the oldest known 
rock on the earth. Its head was lifted above the water 
m the early morn of creation and stood for ages bat- 
tling with the elements while yet the mighty mountains 
of the Eastern Hemisphere were buried beneath the 
ocean. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Keeseville, The Au Sable River and 
Salmon River Yallev. 

■GATEWAY 2 leads from Port Kent past Au Sable 

J Chasm (see page 40) and up the Au Sable River. 

Keeseville, on the Au Sable River, five miles from 

^ort Kent, and nearly two above Au Sable Chasm is 

thrifty and 
enterprising. 
It has a num- 
ber of fine 
private resi- 
dences and 
public e d i - 
fices, built of 
the beautiful 
creamy sand- 
stone which 
underliesthis 
section of the 
country. The 
water- power 
is utilized in 
the twine, 
wire, andiron 
manuf acto r - 
ies, and by 
le Au Sable Horse-Nail Companv, here, and at the 
ail-Rod Works, on the road to Au Sable Chasm. It 
as numerous churches, a graded school, and a wide- 
vake weekly— the Essex Countv Repuhlica7i—\\\i\Q\i 
ieps the public in i healthy state of agitation. 




132 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Au^ur Liake, a charming bit of watei\ is two and 
a half miles south of Keeseville. The Interlaken. at 
this point is three stories high, with verandas, and, as 
a concession to those who may fear lires, has inside 
and outside stairways for the upper floors. It has ac- 
commodations for about loo guests. Beyond the lake 
rise the rocky walls of Poke o' Moonshine and Bald- 
face mountains. At the south is Poke o' Moonshine 
Pass, and near by, Augur Chasm, one of the many 
wonderful freaks of this section, in character like that 
of Au Sable Chasm. 

Tlie Au Sable Valley Railroad has been sur- 
veyed from Keeseville to Lake Placid, and will, it is 
expected, be in operation in 1894. It follows up the 
river to Au Sable forks thence along the East Branch 
past Upper and Lower Jay to Keene, thence up 
John's Brook Valley around Mount Porter and over 
toward the north-west through North Elba to connec': 
with the new road from Saranac Lake at Lake Placid. 
This, when in operation, will afford a delightful round 
trip from Port Kent, returning by the Chateaugay 
Railroad to the main line at Plattsburgh or vice 7>e7'sa. 

The Au Sable Valley above Keeseville is pictur- 
esque in a quiet pastoral way, growing wilder as the 
line enters the narrower glens of the East Branch. 
Rogers' Station is 14 miles from Port Kent and 20 
miles from Plattsburgh. It is the terminus of the Au 
Sable Branch road which extends from the last named 
place. A stage connects with morning trains for Au 
Sable Forks, Jay and Keene Valley. Jay is 7 miles 
from Rogers' Station ; stage fare 50 cents. The Bald- 
win Cottage here will provide for 10 guests, rates $7 
to $10 per week. F. J. Baldwin, proprietor. Upper 
Jay, 4 miles further south, is a charmingly quiet and 
picturesque hamlet, shut in by the close pressing hills. 
Wholesome fare and cheerful service may be found at 
i"he little inn kept here bv C. H. Coppins. Six miles 



THE ADIRONDACK; 



133 



further south is Keene, beyond which is noted Keene 
Valley, for which see Chapter VII. 

The West Brancli of the Au Sable River joins 
with the East Branch at Au Sable Forks coming down 
through Wilmington Notcli, which is one of the 
m3st picturesque passes in the wilderness, the road 
running along the east base of Whiteface ]\lountain to 
Lake Placid. Lack of hotel accommodations and en- 
terprise, and the usual fearfully bad condition of the 
road has made the way one rather to be avoided than 
otherwise, in the past. Wilmington, 26 miles from 
Port Kent, is on the Au Sable where it flows along the 
east base of Whiteface ^Mountain. It gives marked 
evidence of former prosperity, and, at some past time, 
was a centre of considerable importance. Now it is a 
little hamlet, combining the old and the new pictur- 
esquely enough. Entertainment can be found here in 
two little hotels. A trail leads from this point 6 miles 
to the top of Whiteface ^Mountain. Peasleville is 
outside the great public thoroughfares where the 
pleasure-seeker goes up and down, and comparatively 
unknown to the summer tourist. It lies among the 
hills about 10 miles north of Au Sable Forks on the 
little stream that empties into Lake Champlain south 
of Bluff Point. It is reached best over the Au Sable 
Branch railroad from Plattsburgh to Peru, thence by 
carriage six miles west. It lies between two parallel 
mountain spurs that project eastward from the great 
Adirondack system, enclosing the Salmon River 
Valley. Accommodations can be found among the 
farm houses in the valley (or on the mountain sides, if 
one is inclined to seek the greater elevations) where 
wholesome country fare, with an abundance of fresh 
farm and dairy products can be had and willing and 
im stinted service. Address Arnold & Ricketson, 
Peasleville, Clinton Co., for particulars of names and 
plao'^s. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Elizabethtown, Keene Valley and The 

Au Sable Lakes. 

WESTPORT (gateway No. 3) is the main entrance 
to the Mountain Region. An enjoyable stage 
ride of eight miles in a westerly course, leads through 
a notch where we can look down into a lovelv, moun- 
tain-guarded retreat 
known as Pleasant 
Valley. It is scarcely 
less beautiful than 
its twin sister, Keene 
Valley, over beyond 
the grand ridges to 
the west, save that 
the mountains do not 
crowd against it quite 
so closely, and like 
it, is a favorite resort 
for the artist and 
quiet lover of nature, 
and for ladies, whose 
protectors, made of 
sterner stuff, are ' ' roughing it " in the mountains and 
lakes farther west. 

Elizabetlito'wn is the county seat of Essex Coun- 
ty. It contains a native population of about 1000 ; 
has five churches — Congregational, Methodist, Bap- 
tist, Episcopal and Roman Catholic, court-house and 
jail, offices of county officials, hotels, stores, etc. It is* 
peculiarly an American town, having very little 
foreign population, with no mills or forges to fill the 
streams with sawdust, your clothes with soot, or your 
eyes with cinders. 




THE ADIRONDACKS. I37 

The Windsor is the great hotel of Pleasant Val- 
ley, affording accommodations for 2 50 guests. Orlando 
Kellogg, owner and proprietor. This house ha^ 
worthily earned a reputation that has placed it among 
the select hotels of the Adirondack Mountains. It is 
picturesque and unique, consisting of four buildings 
of uniform shape closely connected by covered prom- 
enades and wide piazzas extending along the first and 
second stories. Each building is three stories high, 
and on each is a glass enclosed observatory which 
may be used for observation purpose or utilized on 
occasion, for dormitories. The convenient office is a 
general assembly room for lady and gentlemen guests 
alike, and contains, besides the usual fittings of the 
hotel office a telegraph office and news and notion 
stand. Adjoining, are the gentlemen's lounging 
room, etc., on one hand, and on the other a music 
room with elevated stage and necessary appliances 
for amateur dramatic and musical performances, 
while the ground floors of other buildings contain re- 
ception room and parlors. Sleeping rooms, commo- 
dious and well furnished, and a superior table, meet 
the requirements of the traveling public. There are 
bowling alleys and billiards indoor, tennis courts and 
croquet grounds outside. A well appointed stable 
affords facilities for the enjoyment of the interesting 
drives that abound in this section. Guides, with all 
the necessary equipment for sport, can be arranged 
for at the office, while the Windsor Trout Pond, 
owned by the proprietor of the house, is held for the 
special use of guests. In short, what energy can pro- 
vide to make the Windsor a desirable resort gives it a 
variety of interests approached by few places in the 
Adirondacks. For particulars address the proprietor 
at Elizabethtown. See appendix for rates for board. 

Stages connect with all trains at Wesport. Fare 
$1.00. The four and six-horse "tallv-ho" coaches 



^ .^W.^^^>;^^--JH^'i'S[ fffffli 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 139 

running here tend to popularize this route among 
lovers of coaching. The run is over an excellent 
road, through a picturesque ^^ section, and is not so 
long as to become wearisome. Stage for Keene Valley- 
leaves morning and afternoon. Fare $1.50. 

Tlie Mansion House stands on the broad, level 
plateau that extends southward from the village to 
the head of the valley. It is the large building seen 
prominently as the stage dips over into the valley in 
approaching from the east. It is suggestive of free- 
iom and good cheer in its ample proportions. It has 
Oeen long and favorably known and has an excellent 
Datronage with the complement of returning guests 
y-ear after year. It has, in addition to the main build- 
ng, cottages for guests, affording altogether accom- 
nodations for 150. " Music Hall" is a feature appre- 
ciated by all, while tennis, croquette, billiards, 
Dowling, etc., are standard amusements. There is a 
;elegraph office in the house, which is open the year 
'ound. Stage fare to Westport, $1. S. J. Lamson 
fe Co., proprietors. E. E. Wakefield, clerk. For 
•ates and other particulars see appendix. 

Maple'wood Inn (formerly the Valley House) is 
n the lower town with quiet village surroundings, 
^ates and particulars will be given on application to 
he proprietor, G. W. Jenkins. 

Hurricane Mountain, a sharp cone, on which 
he sun seems to hang as it bids the valley good-night, 
s the highest peak near by. A wagon road leads to 
ts base, five miles distant, from which, by a sharp 
:limb of two miles, the summit is reached. It gives 
)ne of the finest high views to be obtained in the Adi- 
ondacks — second, perhaps, only to that from the top 
>f Whiteface. Cobble Hill rises at the southwest 
idge of the plain like a huge, rough pyramid. Beyond 
his, toward the south, the mountains approach each 
>ther, gro^^dng rough and precipitous as the level 



I40 THE ADIROXDACKS. 

intervale narrows to a mere notch. Split Rock is 
at the head of the valley, 8 miles south. These falls 
are exceedingly picturesque, and the flume wild and 
broken. A trail has been cut along the course, the 
way made safe by a rustic baluster where necessary. 
Modest refreshments may be had of the care-taker. 
A rustic pavilion among the trees is a local attraction 
and dancing not impossible under the inspiration of 
music furnished by the proprietor. £uba Daxa is, or 
rather was, the name of a little place two miles farther 
south, but as its use had a tendency to familiarize the 
youth of the land with incipient profanity, it was 
changed to Euba Mills. Here a road turns west lead- 
ing through Chapel Pond Gorge to St. Hubert's Inn, 
at the head of Keene Valley. South of Euba Mills is 
Deadwater, i6 milcG from Elizabethtown ; Roots, 23 
miles; and Scroon Lake, 32 miles. Nortll of 
Elizabetb.to'wn the road runs close under the 
frowning ledge of Poke-o' Moonshine, past Augur 
Lake to Keeseville, 22 miles distant. West, it 
winds up over the mountain pass, to Keen, 12 miles, 
Cascade Lakes, 18 miles, and out across the plain of 
North Elba to Lake Placid, 27 miles. 

Tlie Willey House is on East Hill, which is the 
west side of Hurricane Mountain, 12 miles from Eliza- 
bethtown and 1Y2 east of Keene Centre. Capacity 
about 70. Harvey Willey, proprietor. P. O. Keene. 
The view westerly is magnificent. A 4-mile trail 
leads tothe top of Hurricane. Forrates see appendix. 
****** 

Keene Valley shows the loveliest com.bination of 
quiet valley, and wild mountain scenery, of any sec- 
tion of the Adirondacks, if not indeed of our continent. 
Through it, from the south, come the sparkling waters 
of the Au Sable, flowing quietly along beneath over- 
hanging maples and gracefull}^ swaying elms, rippling 
over glistening white sand, or dashing down rocky 



THE ADIRDXDACKS. 



raceways to where, among the spray and foam of the 
cataract, it thunders and rumbles and roars as if 
angry with its prison walls ; then out between the 
dark ledges through the northern portals and away to 
Ausable Forks where it joins its sister from the great 



KEENE VALLEY, SOUTH FROM BROOK KNOLL LODGE. 

Indian Pass above. About six miles from the head 
(south end) of the valley the road from Elizabethtown 
com.es in on the east. South of this road we follow 
up the stream that winds quietly back and forth 
through the valley, noting as we go, some of the 
beauties that have lent such a charm to this locality — 
sweet, restful, shady groves of water-maples, great 
massy drooping elms, clumps of alders fringing the 
river brink and great canopies of native grape-vines 
clasping the huge rocks in loving embrace or fes- 
tooned on the sturdy trees through which open up 
long vistas of meadow-land with a background of 
mountain-green, and above all, the summits of naked 
rock. On every side the mountains shut us in, rising 
abruptly up out of the valley's floor instead of with 
the usual gradual curve of mountains from a plain, 
showing unmistakable evidence that the lowlands 
are but the bottom of some ancient lake whose outlet 
may be looked for either on right or left of the castel- 
lated bluff that centrally fills the valley just north of 
where the Elizabethtown road comes in. Picturesque 



142 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



ripening 



"bits" are fonnd ever^'Avhere. The waterfalls are 
varied as the shifting forms of the kaleidoscope, many 
deserving particular attention. They are too numer- 
ous to mention, too wild and varied to be described. 
They must be seen to be appreciated. If a guide be 
wanted for these short excursions, none more com- 
petent or entertaining; can be found than the veteran 
explorer, "Old mounnain Phelps" who knows 
wilderness ways by instinct, and talks with the ele- 
ments as with familiar friends, but whose 
years have caused him, regretfully, 
to yield to younger heads and limbs 
the long tramps through valley and 
over mountain heights in which he 
once delighted. See him at any rate, 
for a cordial welcome and pleasant 
hour is certain to be the result. He 
Avas born in Vermont, in 1816, from 
which he came to the Adirondacks 
when 14 years of age. He had a great 
love for the woods and took to 'them /j 
' ' when deer and speckled trout were (I 
as plenty as mosquitoes in a damp ^" 
day in July." In 1849 he made his 
first trip to the top of Marcy, passing 
out over Haystack around the head of Panther Gorge 
and to the summit, descending near where the main 
trail now runs, being the first man to get to the top 
from the east. He has made a valuable map of the 
wild country around, a section of which is given here- 
Mnth, is a prized and regular contributor to a local 
paper, and has written a voluminous treatise on the 
Adirondack lakes and mountains, trees, birds, beasts, 
etc. , which shows the close observer and enthusiastic 
student of nature. The most perfect "picture" 
of the valley is that seen from Split Rock or from 
Prospect Hill, the latter being near the home of " Old 




OLD MOUNTAIN PHELPS. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



VIountain Phelps" and easily accessible. The most 

comprehensive view, is probably one from Monroe 

12 3 4 5 6 7 8 




KEENE VALLEY FROM PROSPECT HILL. 

I Noon Mark; 2 Dix; 3 Dial; 4NippIetop; 5 Snow; 6 Wolfs Jaws; 
7 Rooster's Comb; 8 Marcy. 

Holt's outlook, on the west side near Brook Knoll. 
It shows almost the entire floor of the valley, and 
Qearly all of its cottages and hotels. 

The Estes House is on the east side of the river 
at the west foot of Prospect Hill. It will now accom- 
modate 50. J. H. Estes, proprietor. This is the only 
boarding house in Keene Valley from which Mount 
Marcy is visible. See appendix for rates. 

Keene Valley (village) is one mile from Prospect 
Hill and aboiit 3 miles from the head of the valley. 
The Post Office is here, church, public hall and several 
stores with the usual variety of pastoral supplies. 

The Adirondack House stands on rising ground 
at the west side of the village. Solomon Kelley, pro- 
prietor. The cut shown herewith does not do the 
house justice as it shows none of the later improve- 
Qients. The original house, built in 1882, has been 
enlarged until noM' it has capacity for 200 guests. It 
lias bath-rooms, Mnth hot and cold water on every 
floor, electric bells and open fireplaces in about 20 of 
the principal rooms. The house commands a com- 



Ill 



1 1 




THE ADIRONDACKS. I45 

prehensive view of the village and mountains and the 
valley extending north and south. Double piazzas 
and one glass-enclosed observatory form admirable 
vantage ground for observation. There is a telegraph 
office here, and mail delivery twice daily during the 
season. A conduit from a mountain spring brings 
pure water, which is carried through pipes to every 
floor. The table is wholesome and makes a special 
feature of fresh cream and milk, eggs and butter and 
fresh vegetables from the hotel farm. The sanitary 
provisions are believed to be perfect. It may be of 
interest to some to note that there are no less than five 
city physicians owning and occupying cottages here 
at Keene Valley during the season. For tennis, 
croquet or the distinctively American game, ample 
grounds are provided. Those who go into camp can 
obtain camping necessaries here. Respectful atten- 
tion marks the service of this house from proprietor 
down, and a disposition to please and satisfy all 
reasonable desires in visitors, entitles it to public 
favor. The Regular Stage delivers guests at the 
hotel, but those who can send notice in advance are 
advised by the proprietor to do so, and they will be 
met by the hotel carriage at train or boat at Westport, 
from which point they may be conveyed direct to the 
hotel, or take time for meals, or night, if desired, at 
Elizabethtown. Those who ride or drive — and by the 
way riding is a popular amusement along the level 
roads and sequestered ways of Keene Valley — will find 
good saddle horses and spring buckboards (the easiest 
riding mountain wagon in the world) at command. 
Stages for Au Sable Lake leave morning and after- 
noon. Fare for round trip, $1.25. 

The New Tahawns House stands at the south 
end of the village. George W. Egglefield, proprietor. 
This is practically a new house, the old portion, which 
became so familiar tr visitors years ago, having been 



THE ADIROiNDACKS. I47 

moved away and an imposing structure reared in its 
place. The cut copied from the architect's plan which 
was modified somewhat, fairly represents the new 
house. It has a frontage of 150 feet. The office, par- 
lors, dining room and billiard room will have open 
fireplaces. Open fireplaces will also be in a number 
of the sleeping rooms. The sanitary arrangements 
have been looked to carefully and believed to be per- 
fect. Modern conveniences go with the new hotel, in- 
cluding baths with hot and cold water. A feature — 
always popular where young people gather — is the 
Tahawus House Theatre, 91x36 feet, with stage and 
all accessories for amateur theatricals. A ten-pin 
alley, base ball ground and tennis court aftord ample 
facilities for healthful physical culture. Teams from 
the Tahawus House will meet guests at Westport, 
when notice is sent in advance, and carry through 
without change to destination. The proprietor is also 
agent for the rent and sale of several cottages, among 
them the picturesque Brook Knoll. For price of 
board and additional particulars see appendix. 

Flume Cottage stands at the entrance to Wash- 
bond's Flume, about a mile south of the village, com- 
manding an extended view of the valley north and 
east. Capacity 35. Martin Bahler, A.M., proprietor. 
Prof. Bahler is a graduate of Rutgers College, and 
prinicpal of a flourishing young ladies' seminary, at 
Summit, N. J., and, as summer landlord here, has 
made it a delightful place of rest for such as enjoy a va- 
cation in the mountains. Entrance is hedged about 
with difficulties that make it charmingh^ unconvention- 
al as a house of entertainment, and as' a consequence, 
rather the thing to be able to address your letters 
from Flume Cottage. Transients are not 'desired. A 
total stranger will need some reference. If a Hebrew, 
do not apply. From being a private cottage, first 
sought by the owner for vacation rest, it has grown to 



I4S THE ADIRONDACKS. 

its present proportions. A guest speaks of it as " an 
ideal summer home, where food is of prime quahtv, 
and the rooms are well furnished and kept in firs't- 
class order." Another mentions Flume Cottage as a 
"romantic home, where comforts unexpected in a 











ln^ 



mountain region are found, and the charms of music 
and the cheerful intercoiirse of a refined home-circle 
enliven the dullness of a stormy day." Professor 
Bahler is noted for his tramps, and is in his element 
when climbing breezy heights or acting as guide in 
exploring expeditions with those possessed of like af- 
finities. For rates, etc., see "appendix. Maple Grove 
Mountain House is the title given originally to a 
picturesque farm-house on the road near Flume Cot- 
tage, and later transferred to a more commodious 
building erected on higher ground close by. Accom- 
modations can here be found for 40 guests. Rates 
given on application. Henry Washbond, proprietor. 
St. Hubert's Cottage stands against the face of 
the hill that looks north, centrally, from the head of 
Keene Valley 2% miles from the village. It is under 



THE ADIROXDACKS. I49 

;he same management as St. Hubert's Inn and forms 
I part of the Inn's equipmenty affording a number of 
iesirable rooms and accommodations for early and 
ate guests. 

St. Hubert's Inn stands on Keene Heights a half 
I mile south of the cottage, on the spot occupied by 
,he Beede House, burned in 1S90. Beede & Hough- 
on, proprietors. The growth of business here has 
)een remarkable and seeminghr without effort on the 
)art of its founders. Visitors coming here years ago 
ound the old hunter. Smith Beede and his son Or- 
ando, who had himself in those early days become 
loted as hunter and guide. The small house occu- 





':'::■ 






^ 


- - - - i' 


1 iT- 










,,>*»* 








.f.-^- 


%0^ 





ST. HUBERT S COTTAGE. 

Med then became a noted resort, much too small for 
he accommodation of would-be guests, and in 1S77 a 
)lain but roomy hotel was built on the plateau above, 
^n the spring of 1886 it was enlarged to double its 
brmer capacity, to be totally destroyed by fire in 
^I arch of iSgo. The present handsome structure was 
mmediately planned and a part completed and opened 
or guests the beginning of the season. The new 








ST. Hubert's inn. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I5I 

hotel is very complete in arrangements. The main 
building forms two faces of an octagon. A third 
face, which it is proposed in time to build, is enclosed 
as a tennis court. A continuation of the floor, gives 
entrance to a building containing a spacious assembly 
room where magazines and light literature will be 
found, with curios, photographs, and illustrated 
books of surrounding scenery. The Inn is three 
stories in height with pleasant, large-windowed rooms, 
many of them en suite, with ample piazzas and bal- 
conies at various points along the front reached 
through doors opening from the upper rooms. A 
spacious parlor and dining room, a large office, tele- 
graph office, post-office (Beede's), reception, reading 
and smoking rooms occupy the main floor. It has 
electric bells and steam heat, and is lighted 
with gas. There are open fire-places in the 
offices and main hall, parlor and dining-rooms, and 
in a number of the sleeping rooms. It is furnished 
in modern style, luxuriously and artistically. The 
decorations are simple, but in good taste. Heavy 
tapestry and hanging curtains in place of doors be- 
tween the publiv rooms, give an air of cozy comfort 
qnite attractive. The purest mountain water is 
brought into the house, and the drainage believed to 
be as perfect as possible. For rates and additional 
particulars see appendix. The proprietors need no 
introduction. A generous liberality marked the man- 
agement of the Beedes from the beginning. The un- 
conventional character of the entertainment, with the 
general freedom of the guests to the best of every- 
thing that could be had, made the place very popular 
from tne nrsr, and me same general principles con- 
tributed to the success of the house when the sole 
management devolved on the present senior member 
of the firm. The junior member, Mr. Houghton, 
who has a genius for making friends, has been identi- 



152 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

fied in some capacity with the management of the 
Inn ever since the opening, coming here with val- 
uable experience had in Boston and among White 
Mountain hotels. 

Stages to "Westport, run morning and after- 
noon, to connect with trains and boats. Fare $2.50. 
To Au Sable Lake, morning and afternoon. Fare 
50 cents; round trip 75 cents. Saddle horses (and 
Mr. Beede knows a good piece of horse-flesh when he 
sees it), carriages, and mountain wagons for extended 
excursions, can be had here on application. 

The " Inn " stands on land 277 feet higher than the 
valley,— 1,240 feet above tide. The outlook is superb. 
On the East is Hopkins Peak and the Giant of the 
Valley; South— a little to the east— is "Noon Mark." 
Resagonia Mountain is in the southwest, its ser- 
rated outline suggesting its local name of "Saw-teeth." 
East of this is the round, knob-like crest, known as 
"Indian Head," which, sphinx-like, looks out over 
the waters of the Lower Au Sable Lake. Mount Col- 
vin rises beyond, sweeping back towards the south 
and east, to its sharp, clean-cut summit. 

Windybrow, the high, round-topped hill at the 
north-east commands a wonderfully fine prospect of, 
not only this upper section but also of, the entire 
stretch of Keene Valley toward the north. It is the 
one view that must not be missed. Roaring 
Brook Falls are at the east, the head of the cliif 
over which they break in sight on the side of the 
Giant, about a mile distant. The water here makes a 
descent of 300 feet in a succession of cascades, hardly 
touching at each step except to gather for the next 
succeeding plunge, then flashes swiftly down the 
almost perpendicular rock for the last fifty feet, 
through a trough worn out by its action, then out, in 
pretty little falls and dashes, to join the Au Sable. 

Chapel Pond is about 2 miles distant in a deep 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 153 



i^orge, southwest of the Giant, with perpendicular 
,walls on either side. It is a half-mile long, perhaps 
ione-fourth that in width. The dark surroundings 
igive an impressive air to this lonely sheet, andmake 
lit seem more fitting as a place for solemn meditation 
than for angler's sport. It is 1,602 feet above tide. 
The Giant's Washbowl is on the side of the Giant, 
500 feet above. You can stand on The Washbowl's 
edge and toss a stone over into Chapel Pond. Chapel 
Pond Road leads east along the side of the gorge, 
to Euba Mills, at the head of Pleasant Valley ; thence 
south through Schroon Valley. The road is good, 
considering the country traversed, and between the 
two valleys is exceedingly wild and picturesque. A 
'dav can be profitably spent in making this excursion. 
If you would attend divine service of a Sunday, 
jyou will be made welcome at " Felsenheim," a little 
ichapel just north of the Inn. 

t The Adirondack Mountain Reserve is 
ithat tract of country Iving south of St. Hubert's, in- 
i eluding within its limits the Au Sable Lakes and the 
•great mountains surrounding them and extending 
j westerly to taice in a part of Mount Marcy. The 
Association is incorporated under the laws of New 
York, with the following officers: Wm. G. Neilson, 
president; S. Sidney Smith, secretary; E. I. H. Howell, 
treasurer. The board of trustees are Robert W. De For- 
est, S. Sidnev Smith, C. C. Cuyler and Frederick J. 
Stimson, of New York, and Wm. G. Neilson, Rich- 
ard C. Dale and Edward I. H. Howell, of Philadel- 
phia. W. W^ Brown is the superintendent in charge. 
The declared objects of the association are, the 
preservation of the forests, lakes and streams in their 
natural beauty ; the restocking of the water with fish ; 
the protection of game and rendering more ac- 
cessible, by roads and trails, points of interest 
within its domains. Cutting green timber, peeling 



154 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



bark, or defacing the property of the company in anv 
manner is forbidden. On Sundays, boats ^yill not be 
rented at the Lakes, nor will goods be sold by the 
agents of the company. No malt or spirituous liquors 
will be sold on the company's reserve at any time 
Hunting will not be permitted at present. Fishing is 
f Ti^T^ ?^^^ ^y special permit. Some of the rules es- 
tablished by the A. M. R. may seem oyer-rigid • but 
the fact that members them selves are bound as 
rigidly as the veriest stranger, is reply enough to 
those who would suggest anything but the best of 
motives, and the objects are to be commended by all 
right-minded persons who may not consider fishine 
and the taking of animal life as the only pleasurable 
sensations to be experienced here among nature's 
ennobling scenes. 

A number of picturesque cottages south St. Hubert's 
belong to the "A. M. R." and are occupied by mem- 
bers during the season. The Rustic Gate is the 

entrance 
to the re- 
serve. At 
the gate- 
house, 
photo- 
g ra phs 
and cu- 
rios are to 
be found, 
and a 
pamphlet 
gi v ing 
over 50 
e X c u r- 

MT. COLViN. INDIAN HEAD. MT. RESAGONIA. sioUS In- 

cluding the principal mountain trails. The Road 
to Au Sable Lake was constructed by the A. M. R. 




THE ADIROXDACKS. 



155 



and is the best road in the Adirondacks, affording 
one of the most delightful drives. Toll is charged 
as follows: two-horse carriage, Si ; single rig, 50 cents ; 
horse and rider, 25 cents. A pedestrian may go free. 
The receipts go for the maintainance of the road, for 
making trails up the mountains and for other improve- 
ments. 

I Lower Au Sable Lake is Swiss-like in its beauty . 
It is about one mile long, narrow like a river, and ex- 
jtends north and south between Resagonia, or ' ' Saw- 
teeth," ISIountain on the west, and Mt. Colvin that rises 
steeply on the east to a sharp ridge, nearl}- 2000 feet 
above. There is no trail along its sides, which are 
almost impassable. Indian Face looks out over the 
water on the east, equaled in its imposing strength 

only b 3^ the 
great stone face 
of the White 
Mountains. The 
view^ from In- 
dian Head i s 
w o n d e r f u 1 1 }' 
fine. Rainbow 
Falls, in the 
gorge over 
across the outlet 
and Ribbon 
Falls hanging 
down over the 
same cliff a 
little deeper in should be seen — the two, divided 
strands of the stream, which here come down off from 
the Gothics. Boats, camp supplies and camping 
privileges can be secured at the boat house here at the 
end of the road. In going through the lake ask your 
guide to point out the "Ice Cave" where ice is found 
the year round. It may not be worth while to enter ; 










■■W^:-^- 



SOUTH FROM INDIAN HEAD. 



I 56 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

it is simply an overhanging ledge ; muddy and dark. 
From the head of the Lower Lake a trail leads a mile 
through the ^voods to the Upper Lake. 

Upper Au Sable Lake is nearly two miles long, 
and a half mile wide. Without being the wildest, it 




UPPER AU SABLE LAKE FROM THE INLET. 

I Haystack; 2 Saddleback; 3 Gothic; 4 Resagonia. 

is, perhaps, the most picturesque of all Adirondac 
lakes. It reflects, in its waters, a number of the most 
striking mountain-peaks, which, seen from this direc- 
tion, are varied and extremely beautiful. Some show 
thickly wooded slopes; others are naked rock, seamed 
and scarred. On the east is Boreas Mountain, a 
long, heavily wooded ridge, terminating at the north 
in Mount Colvin, and extending south about 10 miles. 
At the west is Bartlett Mountain, a high ridge ; over 
its south slope is seen the sharp cone of Haystack, 
which hides Marcy, the highest 
of all. Toward the north are 
Basin, Saddleback, the Gothics 
and Resagonia — a grand circle 
of giants, whose sides are 
marked with the course of 
. mountain torrents and the 
"' white, glistening path of the 
avalanche. The shores of the 
wooded to the water's edge. 



1 



. 'in 




lake 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



157 



Throughout the warm weather this is favorite camp- 
ing-ground with those who come to enjoy beauty and 
an unfettered life of the woods. The Camps are 
mostly open in front to face the campfire, and are 



1 3/4 y^ y^ 

ONE MILL SCALE CMAi.Beeof 

/It .^^5 3 Ft "'^'^ 



'"HANK c pahk 







C AMPS 

ON 

Upper [\u^f\bii [ake. 



built and owned by the authorized guides of Keene 
Valley by authority of the owners of the Reserve. 
No one will be allowed to occupy camps here unless ac- 
companied by an authorized guide. Twenty-five cents 
per night will be charged each visitor for the use of a 
camp. The Authorized Guides of Keene Valley 
are bound hv rules of their own making, and 



158 THE ADIRONDACKS 

membership may be accepted by the public as 
a guarantee of capability. Members: Charles Beede, 
George F. Beede, Harry Beede, Oren E. Beede, Horace 
E. Braman, John Brown, George W. Hanmer, Melvin 
A. Hathaway, Le Grand Heald, Fred E. Lamb, C. 
Wesley Lamb, James Owens, Frank C. Parker, (For- 
ester), Edmund F. Phelps, Harry S. Stetson, Arthur 
C. Trumbull, Charles E. Trumbull, Melville J. Trum- 
bull. Address at Keene Valley. 

Camp Supplies can be procured at the hotels. If 
your stay in camp is to be short it is best to ask your 
landlord to put up what may be necessary, which he 
will do charging you ordinarily for the same at hotel 
rates. Your guide will cost $3 per day; camp rent, 25 
cents. 

The ascent of Mount Marcy from Keene Valley is 
generally by way of the Au Sable Lakes, the way 




THE GREAT PEAKS FROM THE SOUTH. 

I Alien; 2 Skylight; 3 Marcy; 4 Panther Gorge; 5 Haystack; 
6 Basin ; 7 Saddleback ; 8 Gothic. 

leading up the Inlet by boat to Marcy Brook, thence 
along the west side of Bartlett Mountain through 
Panther Gorge, or along the south side of the mountain 
to Lake Tear-of-the-Clouds, for which see page 129. 
Soutll of Au Sable Lake a trail leads out (6 miles) to 
Elk Lake, thence 5 miles to the road running west to 
Tahawus (see gateway No. 7), and Root's, (5 miles east.) 
The Great Peaks are grandest from near where 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



159 



the Boreas River, one of the main tributaries of the 
Hudson River, is crossed by this east and west road 
A long hne of giants, they stand across the northern 
sky, grim and rugged, presenting in reverse, though 
wilder form, almost the same outline as when seen 
from Lake Placid. 




Gateway No. 4 (Port Henry) is little used by 

Adirondack vis- 
itors. A daily 
stage of uncer- 
tain hours and 
movement runs 
to Schroon Riv- 
. , ^, . er from which 

point another stage is supposed to continue on to New- 
comb and Long Lake. 

Gateway No. 5 leads from Crown Point by the 
C. P. I. R. R. to Hammondville, 
13 miles, thence bv stage past 
Paradox Lake to Schroon Lake. 
Paradox Lake is four miles 
long, measured east and west. 
At its east end the shores are ab- 
, . rupt and rugged, at the west low 

and smooth. Paradox House, on the south side of 
the Lake, two miles from its outlet, is quite noted for 
trout dinners. Schroon Lake is generally reached 
from the south by Gateway No. 7. 
^i,^^j®^^5^ ^®- ^ (Ticonderoga) is a gateway to 
the Adirondacks only bv courtesv. It is the northern 
entrance to queenly Lake George. If at the village 
of Ticonderoga, stop at the Burleigh House. Schroon 
Lake, 20 miles inland, may be reached by private 
conveyance. The road is excellent. 




CHAPTER VIII. 



Luzerne, Schroon Lake, North Creek and 
THE "Ruined Village." 

^ARAT(3GA is Gateway No. 7. From this point 
3 the Adirondack Railroad runs north until 
t strikes the 
ludson River 
it Co r i nth, 
hence up 
ilong its west 
)ank to North 
>eek 5 7 miles 
listant. 
Luzerne is 
■ituated at the 
unction of the 
iudson and 
5acandaga 

ivers, twenty-two miles north of 
Saratoga. It is inclosed by rounded 
lills, heavily wooded to their. sum- 
nits, save here and there a break 
vhere some ledge looks out on 
he valley below. On the west are 
he Kayaderosseras mountains ; 
>n the east, the. Luzerne range, 
hat has its rise at Lake George, 
md ends where the Hudson, turn- 
ng east, breaks through between 
t and Mount McGregor on the south, where Grant, 
he soldier, came to die. Toward the north the moun- 
ains are broken, rocky and picturesque. These are 




l62 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

the outreaching spurs of the Adirondacks, from which 
the Hudson comes flowing quietly along to its union 
with the Sacandaga at Ti-si-ran-do, "the meeting of 
the waters." From this point down the river to 
Jessup's Landing, are six miles of still running water, 
then the river sweeps around almost north again and 
makes a plunge of 60 feet over Palmer's Falls. Lu- 
zerne is on the old Indian trail from the great villages 
of the Mohawks to the head of Lake George. Here 
King Hendrick and his braves encamped when on 
their way to join Johnson at Lake George in 1755. 
LiUzerne Lake is a pearl set in emerald, lying at 
quite an elevation above the \^llage, a crystal drop on 
the hillside, held there by a narrow embankment 
through which the outlet finds its way, and after 
amusing itself among sets of water-wheels passes 
out mto the Hudson and to the sea. 

The Wayside Inn is just north of the village, 
facing the lake. Capacity 200. E. C. King, manager. 
The Wayside is an imposing structure with numer^ 
ous gables, porches, piazzas and balconies. The in^ 
terior is in keeping with the exterior — roomy, ram- 
bling, air}^; with pleasant office, dining-room and par- 
lor, and with a charming outlook over the lake and 
forest, and the rolling meadow-land aroun d. It has, con- 
nected with it a number of cottages which can be rented 
for the season, affording desirable accommodations 
separate from the more public quarters of the Inn. 
There is a telegraph office.here and an excellent liver}- 
within call. Guests are transferred to and from all 
trains free. Mr. King, the manager, is energetic, and 
that he is efficient is proven by the popularity of the 
house which finds difficulty in providing accommoda- 
tions sufficient for its would-be guests. Those de- 
siring rooms during July or August will do well to 
make application in advance, as the Wayside is the 
only hotel of interest left to the summer visitor in this 



THE ADIROMUCK.S. 



163 



section. For rates and additional particulars see an- 
penaix. ^ 

North of Luzerne the road runs along the river 
at times crowded close against its brink as the valley 
narrows down and the mountains grow more abrupt 
and precipitous. Riverside is ^o miles from Sara- 



PH 




RIVERSIDE. 



top. There is little to interest here, save the erace 
ful suspension bridge thrown across from shore tt 

anrSehrJorZ^t-e'"^ "^^^ "'^'' '-<^= '" ^^<^^^ 

.vith lakes and valleys and rolling hillsSrise Tn 

™tlir.Tcfur'^' mountains^ The roadsTboS 
iie specially picturesque and varied and the poDular 
imusements are riding and driving. The lakeland 

iS-'ridgetL'd th ""'^ ""Y^ ^"^^ ^^^-^ fishing! wMe 
eason in Jh. ^^^ '"'''^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ fo^nd in their 
■eason m the adjacent woods. The Chester Won«i 

s on high ground in the villagl It is^Jfee^tonet 

fmaples' ^T^""^ ^^f^^^^' '^^^'^^ ^^^ I m?e ^rove 
Ian v^ In. '' P'^^x!'^''" ^"^^^ ^he management of 
. flJi. Downs, who, with considerable experience 

sposit'rand'^^-^if//^"^^^^ P^^-"-' - ^bhlfn" 
isposition, and youthful zeal and enterprise, This 




j54 the adirondacks. 

house will care for about 150 guests. For rates see 

^^Pottersville, a village of a single street, is six miles 
northeast of Riverside, near the foot of Schroon Lake. 
Its surroundings back from the narrow valley are ex- 
ceedingly wild, rugged and picturesque^ Potters- 
ville Hotel is here by the side of Trout Brook. John 
B Wells proprietor. This is the regular dmmg place for 

passengers gomg or 
coming, and furnishes 
a wholesome and most 
substantial meal. The 
. p -\/ house is comfortably 

^ ' H furnished, and affords 

pleasant accommodations to those who may prefer 
this to the northern extremity of the lake. Trout 
Brook, affords very good sport, while fishmg grounds 
on river and lake are easily reached. Mr. Wells is a 
young man, full of energy, and brings to the busi- 
ness experience of value from the old Wells House on 
Schroon Lake. For rates and particulars see ap- 
pendix. . 

The Leavitt Stage Line, runnmg between River- 
side and Schroon Lake, is not unworthy of special 
notice. The ride affords a pleasant change from the 
cars, giving variety, without continuing long enough 
to become wearisome, followed by the halt for dinner 
and the race to the steamboat in the open wagons. 
The coaches used here are of the well-known Concord 
build. The stock is first-class, and the drivers are of 
the most reliable, Eugene Leavitt, proprietor of the 
line, is considered one of the best whips m the 
country. Six-horse, tally-ho stages run to the mam 
trains, and lighter wagons connect morning and 
evening, with the "sleeper" at Riverside. Specials 
may be secured for any service required by arrange- 
ment with the manager. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I55 

Schroon Lake is one of the most popular semi- 

ZfT:-i:T''' ^" ^^ '"'^'"''y- It - surrounded 
on all sides by mountains, not high but wild and 

Irffnd^•t?t^f "^!f'°^"""^^ fralmentary masTes 
nor^h n ^^^ T^' Sro^vmg smoother as you go 
wide .nL''-?T-^^\^^^ "^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^th, about two 
.^.1 \ ^''('^^'^ in two nearly equal portions by ap- 
t^ei. of 'p^ P«;^t^ ^^the narrows. It receives the wa- 

H^ H. T? ^^Pties through Schroon River into the 
Hudson River at Thurman. The shores are low re- 
ceding m gentle slopes for a distance, then ris^ up 
into the mountains surrounding it. It is reacheri 

t"o Rtl?•^^^ ^'"r^^^^ ^^^^--^' from Saratoga 
hlf T ^^' ^^'^''f ^y^^^Se to the outlet. The Steam- 
boat Landing at the outlet is something less than a 
mile from Pottersville. Here the Stiamer "Ef 
fingham," Captain Sam Russell, waits the comSg 

anrf ^t.rf/ "^t "^^^""^^ ^'™S^ ^^""'"'h^ around 

andstaitsawayon her nine mile trip through the 

ilthoZ^ 'th '^fV^^ mountains are all around, and, 
although other lake gems may have a grander setting 
here are few with greater variety Ind none witfi 
lovelier shores. On the southwest are the great rough 
mountain ribs and knobs that gather around PotteS- 

i stni..^''^.;^ ^^? '"''"? ^^'^y '^^^^^ ^^^^^^ fo^ some 
heZ^P^^'' beyond we see the sharp outlines of 
^nl i. S ^T.^^' ^^^ ^^^""^ glimpses of Mount Dix, the 
UTH nH T.h "^"^b^less, nameless peaks that cluster 
iiound Tahawus— the cloud splitter— seen at one 
)oint, faint and blue with distance 

Watcli Rock Hotel is on the east side of the 
^ake 4 miles from the outlet. Capacitv 125. Georee 
fp^^H .P^^«P"^t«^- P- O. Adirondack. The house 
tands 111 a luxuriant grove of mixed forest trees that 
. .S f .-towards the north along the lake and back- 
h i / ^^ mountains. Its environment bespeak 
hnft and enterprise. It has connected with it several 



THE ADIRONDACKS. l5y 

whflT.h 'T^ ""^ ^^'^"^ occupied by their owners, 
w hile others form a part-and a very dehghtful part-of 
the hotel accommodations. It is richly furnished with 
S-fi!?T . '^'' ^""^ completeness suggestive of sub- 
stantial, lasting qualities, rather than of temporary 
occupancy. There are summer-houses amonV ?he 
trees and secluded walks through the woods There 
are croquette grounds and a tennis court. There are 
saddle horses and horses with dainty or substantial 
W.^'^fii-^' the visitor wills. Therl are pleasuie 
boats, hshmg boats and a steamboat here, any or all 
at the service of those desiring them. The table is 
■ excellent-m short the general Sharacter of the house 
is nice and wholesome with a suggestion of solid ex- 
clusiveness that is rather attractive than otherwise. 
Ml. Cecil has traveled extensively, and, appreciating 
Sf.HT'f "^'i''. °^ the many-si^d public^ has ap^ 
phed his knowledge to the business with credit to the 
r>ZT -tr . advantage to guests. Steamer con- 
nects with stage for railroad, at foot of the lake Fare 
50 cents, tor rates of board, etc., see appendix 

Adirondack the little hamlet south of Watch 
sm^n' nf ll^^^^^^^^q^^' and fragrant with the odorous 
'?. -.f, ^''''^^^^ which reveals its principal busi- 
ness. .J It IS spoken of generally as Mill Brook, al- 
thoug^h known m the postal department by its name 
ot "Adirondack. ^ 

P^^^^l^'',^^'''^^? V""^ cottages are at Lake View 
Point, on the west shore of the lake opposite Watch 
Rock. Capacity about 175. C. F. Taylor & Son pro- 
molT P- .^- Taylors-on-Schroon' The accom- 
modations are m the central building which contains 
oftce. i;eception rooms, dining room^ etc., and in a 
httle village of fifteen or more cottages of various 
inc^'fr ""'It ^'^^■'^ grouped among the trees, present- 
ng altogether a very pretty picture. The cottages 

Rn.f ^% '"''"''^'^ ^>. ''^S'^^^^' -^^sts of the Taflor 
tiouse, others on occasion assigned to transient visit- 



l68 THE ADIROxNDACKS. 

ors. The post office is here in one of the cottages and 
with it "notions" of both masculine and feminine 
nature, literary, photographic and saccharine. The 
house and grounds are lighted by electricity. The 
steamboat lands on all regular trips to and from the 
outlet. Fare 50 cents. The accommodations and 
fare are excellent. For rates see appendix. Ripe 
experience and youthful energy are united in the 
management here. To the untiring devotion of C. F 
Taylor the senior member of the firm in earlier days 
is due perhaps more than to any other man living, 




o. «• ^^l=a-^l 



TAYLOR HOUSE. 



the impetus that set Scroon Lake on its high road to 
popularity as a summer resort, and no one envies the 
success that has crowned his later ventures. On the 
north side of Lake View Point Ed. Harrigan exem- 
plifies " squatter sovereignty" in a style that his ad- 
mirers would not recognize as of the New York kind. 
At the narrows farther north the heroine of " Mugg's 
Landing" has a modern landing and a pretty cottage. 
The Grove Point House stands on an elevated 
point extending from the west shore near the north 
end of the lake, a half mile from the village of Schroon 



THE ADIRONDACKS. l6g 

Lake. Capacity loo. Capt. W. A. Mackenzie, pro- 
prietor. The house is well furnished, clean and at- 
tractive of itself and picturesque in its surroundings 
and outlook. It is prosperous because its proprietor 
IS energetic and withal, obliging. During the winter 



=fc<!s'.«^aii''i«i!i 



GROVE POINT FROM THE SOUTH. 

he is in the management of ' ' St. Helena-by-the-Sea " 
and after October ist must be addressed at Frogmore 
P. O., Beaufort Co., South Carolina. The steamer 
lands six times daily during the season and 
guests have the privilege of riding to and from the 
village, free. There is a good sand beach here with 
bath houses ; tennis court, croquet ground, etc. , and 
boats of different kinds to be hired by the hour, day, 
w^ek orseason. For price of board, etc. , see appendix! 
Schroon Lake I have spoken of in general. 
Schroon Lake in particular means the collection of 
little houses and big hotels at its head. The little 
village is worthy of the best name on record, if beauty 
of location and general appearance entitles one to 
such. The main street through which the rgad runs 
to the north is a fine shaded avenue, the land sloping 
down to the edge of the lake, displaying the whole in 
a very pretty manner. It is a thoroughly wide awake 
town, showing a degree of enterprise that many 
larger places might well be proud of. Dailv mails 
are maintained throughout the year ; the telegraph 
brings it in direct communication with the great 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I7I 

cities. The churches are good. The hotel accommo- 
dations first-class, while the enterprise of their pro- 
prietors, together with the fine natural attractions of 
the place, has earned for this a world-wide reputation, 
standing second only to Lake George — ahead of it, 
even, with those who delight to point the rifle or cast 
the fly. The societ}- here is of a refined class, scarcely 
any of the rowdy element finding its way in, for the 
bright skies, the waving fields, the far-reaching for- 
ests, and the grand freedom of the mountains, pos- 
sesses little that is congenial to the tastes of such. 
As the village is approrched from the south the most 




12 34 5 

SCROON LAKE VILLAGE FROM*SOUTH. 

I Dock ; 2 Ondawa House ; 5 Lake House ; 4 Windsor ; 5 Leland House. 

prominent objects are the hotels — the Leland House, 
on the high ground at the right ; the Schroon Lake 
House, near the water's edge ; over this, the Windsor 
House, and the Ondawa, among the trees at the left 
of the Lake House. 

* Tlie Leland House is the leading hotel of 
Schroon Lake. Capacity about 300. L. R. Locke, 
proprietor. Post-office Schroon Lake. Two large 
cottages, connected with the main building by an ex- 
tension of the double piazzas at either end, afford re- 
tired quarters for those who may prefer such to the 
more public rooms in the lower building. Within the 
office will be found Western L^'nion Telegraph con- 
nections ; news, photograph and fancy goods stand. 
This is one of the few hotels where the main office is 
made the pleasant gathering-place of the lady guests 
:>i the house. It wasbuiltin iS72and at once became 



172 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

popular. It was enlarged in 1875 and again in iSSi, 
and still again in 1SS8, by the addition of a large 
wing to give a children's dining room and new sleep- 
ing rooms. The grand dining room was enlarged 
giving it a seating capacity of 300, and a new kitchen 
built and furnished with the modern appliances. The 
house is nicely — richly furnished, the public rooms at- 
tractive and cozy, the sleeping apartments provided 
with the best of beds, and their appointments through- 
out in good taste. The sanitary conditions here are 
believed to be perfect — the land, sloping off in all di- 
rections, rendering the question of drainage a simple 
one. The grounds of the Leland House are about 
five acres in extent — a grassy lawn, shaded by young 
trees and provided with modest little summer houses 
vine-draped and inviting. On its south front is a 
broad, high piazza, double at the ends ; and, in front 
of this, a grand poi^t-coachare — a pleasant and duly 
appreciated feature of a sunny day. From its com- 
manding position it overlooks the lake in three direc- 
tions — south, east and north, and on the west, the 
village and the hills beyond. An observatory on the 
top of the building is 107 feet above the lake, and 
gives a view of rare beauty and considerable extent, 
showing the full reach of the lake at the south, and a 
charming picture of Schroon Valley toward the north. , 
Every requisite necessary for sport can be secured 
here either for hunting or fishing, riding, driving or 
boating generally. The table here is superior, and 
the .service all that can be expected — in short, the 
Leland House is an exceptionally good "all round" 
house. The proprietor has energy and many of the 
other requisites that go to make up the successful 
landlord, and his long experience enables him to place 
before the visiting public that which is most satisfac- 
tory or to be desired. 

Tlie Lake House stands nearest to the steam- 
boat landing. Capacity 100. E. E. Riddell, pro- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I 73 

prietor. The main building is loo feet front, with a 
piazza extending along its entire length. A pleasant 
feature of the house — hibernically speaking — is its 
open platform outside, overhanging the lake shore, 
and itself overshadowed by wide-spread trees, afford- 
ing one of the most delightful resting places imagin- 
able of a sultry afternoon or evening. The Ondawa, 
west of the Lake House, will provide for loo people. 
O'Connor Brothers, proprietors. The "Windsor 
Hotel, west of the Leland House. Has capacity for 
about 60 guests. C. L. Hunter, proprietor. The 
Leland Cottage, on Main street, has accommoda- 
tions for about 25. J. M. Leland, proprietor. The 
Prospect House, also on the main street of the 
village, will provide for 30 guests. J. A. Pitkin & 
Brother, proprietors. The Arlington Cottage, just 
north of the village, is a pleasant boarding hotise, 
nicely kept, j^roviding for 30 guests. C. C. Whitney, 
proprietor. For Rates and other particulars re- 
lating to the smaller houses see appendix. 

Stages run mornings from Schroon Lake to Ham- 
mondville, 11 miles distant, daily. Fare, $1.50. 
Connection is made over the Crown Point Iron Co.'s 
Railroad, with afternoon train an the Delaware and 
Hudson Railroad, north and south. The valle}^ north 
of Schroon Lake with the various roads leading 
towards the east and around Paradox Lake afford 
delightfully interesting drives, and specially good 
stock for enjoying them is raised and kept here. 

Root's Hotel IS 9 m iles north of Schroon Lake, 
27 east of Newcomb, 23 south of Elizabeth town, 
and 17 west of Port Henry. It had an excellent 
reputation once but at present the accommodations 
and fare are not such as to attract the average sum- 
mer visitor. Toward the west, between the moun- 
tain whose jagged sides come down to the edge 
of the valley, runs the road to the Boreas region, 



174 IHE ADIRONDACKS. 

Newcomb, and Long Lake. North, stretches the beau- 
tiful Schroon Valley until the gradually approaching 
mountains come together at Deadwater. At Euba Mills, 
13 miles north of Roots, roads diverge — one bearing 
toward the right and leading through Pleasant Valley, 
to Elizabethtown, 10 miles ; the other toward the left, 
upward through Chapel Pond Gorge to Keene Valle}-. 

Returning to Riverside we go up the west 
bank of the river 7 miles to the terminus of the rail- 
road at North. Creek 57 miles from Saratoga. This 
is the point of departure for the Adirondack Iron 
Works and Newcomb via Minerva and for Indian 
Lake and the Blue Mountain, Raquette and Long 
Lake region. The American House, is a short 
distance from the Station. John Mclnerny, proprietor. 
This house provides good substantial fare and accom- 
modations at a very reasonable price ; for particulars 
see appendix. The Adirondack Hotel situtated 
some little distance south of the station is also an 
excellent house. Wm. H. Baker, Agt., proprietor. 
Mountain Rigs suitable for these northern roads 
can be had at the American at reasonable prices. 
Parties for Aiden Lair, Newcomb Lakes, or the section 
around the Adirondack Iron Works, not reached by 
daily stage, will find it advisable to make arrangements 
for conveyances at this point. By leaving in the 
morning by special conveyance passengers can also 
connect at Blue Mountain Lake ^^'ith afternoon steamer 
for Raquette Lake — all landings — and with stage for 
Long Lake. 

Aiden Lair is about 17 miles north of North 
Creek. It is quite noted as a hunting and fishing 
region. You may look in vain for the " lair," it isn't 
" thair" except in shape of a little hotel that is con- 
tent to remain unknown except as you may knock for 
admission. Tahawus is about 12 miles farther. 



THE ADIR(JNDACKS. I 75 

Tahawus is also at present centered in a single house 
— the Lower Club House belonging to the Adirondack 
Club, whose headquarters are at theUpper Adirondack 
Works. Once there were extensive buildings at this 
place. A long dam across the Hudson flooded the 
valley back to the outlet of Lake Sanford, and barges 
floated between the two villages carrying supplies up 
and bringing the ore down to be carted eastward to 
Lake Champlain over a road built especial!}- for this 
purpose. ]\Iealscan be had here or entertainment for 
a night, if the traveller wishes, under the rules of the 
Club, although uninvited visitors are not encouraged. 
A road leads up the west side of the Hudson — here 
called the North River. Five miles up the foot of 
Lake Sanford is reached. This lake is four miles 
long with low marshy shores, here and there punc- 
tuated by round hills and knobby points. Just above 
the head of Lake Sanford is the "New Forge." 
The building that inclosed the gorge is gone now, 
but the stone furnace, forty feet square at its base, 
stands firm and solid as when made. The history 
of Adirondack is brief and sad. Messrs. Henderson, 
McMartin and Mclntrie, who, in 1826 owned and 
operated iron-works at North Elba, were shown a 
piece of ore of remarkable purity by an Indian, which, 
he said, came from a place where "water rtm over 
dam, me find plenty all same." .The services of the 
Indian were secured at once, at the rate of two shil- 
lings and what tobacco he could use per day, to con- 
duct them to the place spoken of, where they found, 
as he had said, where the water literally poured 
over an iron dam. A tract of land embracing the 
principal ore beds in that vicinity, was promptly 
secured, forges built, and the road cut from the lower 
works out to Lake Champlain. But the expense of 
transportation to market swallowed all the profits and 
the enterprise proved a financial failure. The work 



176 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

however was persevered in until the death of Mr. 
Henderson, who was killed in 1845 by the accidental 
discharge of his pistol at a place now known as 
Calamity Pond. The body was borne out on the 
shoulders of workmen, and afterwards a beautiful 
monument placed where he fell, bearing the inscrip- 
tion : " Erected by filial affection to the memory of 
our dear father, David Heiiderson, who accident- 
ally lost his life on this spot by the previatiire dis- 
charge of a pistol, jd Sept., 1843^ In the death of 
Mr. Henderson the motive power was removed, and 
three years after his death the works were abandoned. 
There was something gruesome about the Ruined 




ADIRONDACK IN 1873. 

Village when we approached in our tramp of '73. A 
quarter of a century had passed since the hum of in- 
dustry sounded there. Where once sounded the crash 
of machinery and the shouts of children at play, all 
Avas still save perhaps the shrill bark of the fox or the 
whir of the startled partridge. Instead of the music 
of voices all was silence, solemn and ghosth'. Over 
the mountains and the middle ground hung a dark 
funereal pall of cloud, across which the setting sun 
cast bars of ashen light that fell on the nearer build- 



THE AUIRONDACKS. 1 77 

ings, bringing out their unseemly scars in ghastly re- 
lief, and lying in strips across the grass-grown street 
which led away into the shadow. On either side 
stood cottages, stained and blackened by time, with 
broken windows, doors unhinged, falling roofs and 
crumbling foundations. At the head of the street 
was the old furnace, one chimney still standing, one 
shattered by the thunderbolt in ruins at its feet. The 
water-wheel — emblem of departed power — lay mo- 
tionless, save as piece by piece it fell away. Huge 
blocks of iron, piles of rusty ore, coal bursting from 
the crumbling kilns, great shafts broken and bent, 
rotting timbers, stones and rubbish, lay in one com- 
mon grave, over which loving nature had thrown a 
shroud of creeping vines. Near the centre of the 
village was a large house that at one time accommo- 
dated a hundred boarders, now grim and silent. Near 
by at the left stood the pretty school house, the steps 
worn by many little feet, had rotted and fallen, the 
^vindows were almost paneless, the walls cracked and 
rent asunder where the foundation had dropped 
away, and the doors yawning wide, seemed to say not 
" welcome " but " go" — 

" O'er all there hung- a shadow and a fear, 
A sense of mystery the spirit daunted 
And said as plain as whisper in the ear, 
The place is haunted." 

To-day but little remains of the Ruined Village. All 
but two or three of the buildings that stood in 1873 
tiave been removed or destroyed. The ancient school- 
tiouse does duty as a fish hatchery. The old kilns are 
overgrown with vines and shrubbery. The big old 
louse, re-arranged and modernized, is a hotel under the 
management of Myron Buttles, Superintendent for 
the Adirondack Club, holders of the territory of the 
j\d Adirondack Iron Company as a game and fish pre- 
serve for the use of members and friends. The 



178 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

rules of the club proclaim it a "close corporation," 
but no one understanding the circumstances can find 
reasonable objection as the stringent regulations 
adopted apply equally to all members, no one being 
permitted to hunt or fish outside the season as es- 
tablished by law, or to hunt at all except on regularly 
appointed occasions. The Club Houses at Tahawus 
and here, although primarily intended for the accom- 
modations of club members, will provide fare for the 
chance visitor. Price of accommodations is fixed at 
$3 per day for all persons except guides and servants, 
and no person not a member of the club or their 
guests, will be entertained for more than a single 
night unless under pressing conditions. Myron But- 
tles, the manager, is a walking encyclopedia of fact 
and figures, tireless in the discharge of his duty as 
manager and unremitting in his attention as host. 

From the Ruined Village to Calamity Pond is 5 
miles ; to Lake Golden 7 miles ; to top of Marcy 12 
miles. See pages 127-130. 

Lake Henderson is half a mile north of the 
Ruined Village. It is two miles long with its outlet 
near the center, on the east. From its head a trail 
leads to the Preston Ponds, the head of Cold River, 
which flows west into Raquette River below Long 
Lake. Toward the north we look up a gradual slope 
through Indian Pass ; the dark green sides of ]McIn- 
tire coming steeply down on the east side with the 
perpendicular cliffs of mighty Wallface on the west. 

Indian Pass is among the grandest features of 
the Adirondack Mountains. The distance through 
from the Ruined Village to Adirondack Lodge is 
about II miles. By boat through Lake Henderson 
reduces the walking distance about a mile. From the 
head of Lake Henderson, for three miles, the rise is 
gradual, then we begin to climb, crossing the rivulet 
back and forth as we go upward, making long de- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I 79 

:ours to the right, at times, ascending the mountain 
;ome distance, and following a level stretch along its 
^ides until the wildly dashing torrent is reached once 
nore ; then upward and onward, the path growing wild- 
er and more difficult as we proceed, the brooklet bound- 
ng from rock to rock, now lost in some dark cavern, 
low trickling down among the huge boulders or 
gurgling in muffled music beneath our feet, anon 
Dursting out, to rest a moment in some mossy basin, 
Dure crystal in an emerald setting, on which float 
'airy ships of leaves. We get occasional glimpses 
;hrough the trees of Great Wallface, appearing 
Dcrhaps but a shade or two darker than the blue 
ibove until at last, through, an opening it comes 
)ut; vast, grand, overwhelming immeasurable ! The 
ije sees it hanging in mid-air, a cloud, an outline, 
I color and bows beneath its awful weight. The 
^iant pines that fringe its brow seem but bristling 
)ver, the great rifts that scar its sides, but a 
aint tracery of lines where cool gray shadows 
)r yellow sunlight, mayhap race swiftl}^ across 
)r lays in slant bars along its misty face. 
6ut the highest point is not reached 3'et; we are 
ust entering at the lower gate, and for nearl}^ a mile 
t is a continuous climb over great chaotic masses of 
agged rocks thrown down b}^ some convulsion of 
slature, now on some huge fragment that seems ready 
o topple over into the gulf below, now where hang 
h'ipping mosses and sprawling roots — stooping, 
;rawling, clinging to projecting limbs, climbing 
ilippery ledges, upward all the time ! At last we 
itand on Lookout Point. Close by rises that grand 
vail a thousand feet. The bottom of the gorge is 
hree hundred feet below. The cliff reaches out 
lorth and south, majestic, solemn and oppressive in 
ts nearness. A long line of great fragments have 



THE ADIRON'DACKS. l8l 

"alien, year by year, and now lie at its foot. On every 
;ide huge caverns )'awn and mighty rocks rear their 
leads where He who rules the earthquake cast them 
centuries ago. Along back, down the gorge we look, 
;o where — five miles away and 1,300 feet below — is 
Lake Henderson, a shining drop in the bottom of the 
yreat emerald bowl. As we have risen, the sweet 
gurgling music of the infant Hudson has died away, 
rhen, as we pass onward, comes the familiar sound 
)nce more — faintly at first, then more distinctly — the 
;inging of little waters ; first trickling over rocks, then 
lancing downward, increased in volume by tributary 
streams from the slopes of Mclntire — dancing away 
;oward the north — the impetuous Au Sable, twin 
Drother at birth and rocked in the same moun- 
;ain cradle with the mighty Hudson that goes 
'oiling southward to the sea. Does it pay to 
ip through Indian Pass? I answer a thousand 
:imes yes. It costs a little exertion, but the ex- 
3eriences and emotions of the day will come back in a 
lood of recollections that lift the soul a little higher 
md makes one better for a visit to that grand old 
iiountain ruin. 

* -A- ******* 

Newcomb is 7I2 miles west of Tahawus, 14 miles 
jast of Long Lake and 29 from North Creek. It is 
)ne of the oldest settled sections in the wilderness ; is 
:iuiet and afi'ords fare hunting and fishing. A water 
"oute, leading from this point, through Rich and CaV 
in Lakes, to Long Lake, strikes the latter near its 
outlet. Accommodations may be found here at the 
Wayside Inn. P. Monahan, proprietor. Washington 
I^hase is postmaster, job printer, and dealer in drugs 
md general merchandise, and one of the enterprising 
nen of the town. 

********* 

North Creek Stages run on arrival of noon 
:rain to Blue Mountain Lake in time for supper 



l82 



THE AUIRONDACKS. 



Fare, North Creek to Blue Mountain Lake, $3. Patent 
canopy-top buckboards, ma}- be had by pa^-ing aii/ ad- 
ditional sum, for which apply to the stage agent at 
either end of the route, personally or by mail or tele- 
graph, or at the hotels. Fare one buckboard carrying 
one person $10; two persons $11 ; three or more per- 
sons $4 each; two children under 12 occupying one 
seat same as one adult. 

The Nortli River Hotel is five miles from North 
Creek. Capacity 40. W. H. Roblee, proprietor. 
This is the regular dining place (dinner 75 cents) 
for passengers over this road in going in or coming 
out of the woods, and provides a meal seldom equalled 
in its wholesomeness and hunger-satisfying nature. 
Stages run as far as this point, on arrival of the even- 







0V^^'>^. 







NORTH RIVER HOTEL. 



ing train from the south, bringing such as may desire 
to remain over and be fortified with a night's rest and 
one or more of inine host Roblee' s excellent meals for 
the longer ride of the morrow, and it is recommended 
that those not over robust arrange to break the jour- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 183 

ley here, taking buckboards for the interior in the 
Horning. A day or more can be spent here to advan- 
:age, either for rest or sport. The surrounding 
:ountry affords excellent fishing and the smaller 
^ame, and is within easy walking distance of points 
,vhere the larger kinds may be found. For rates see 
ippendix. Connection with the Western Union Tele- 
paph is made at this point. Tliirteenth. Lake, 
'our miles west, is reached over a very good road, 
rhe lake is about three miles in length by half mile 
A'ide, 1,952 feet above tide, and affords excellent fish- 
ng. The wild country around it is noted hunting 
>Tound. 

A short distance above North River we leave the 
•iver and climb up through a high notch at the west, 
•ising a thousand feet in something less than four 
niles, then descending gradually, cross a stretch of 
3urnt land to Indian River, The Indian River 
3otel, with capacity for 40, is here at the crossing, 11 
niles from North River. It is frequented some by 
lunters but is not specially attractive or to be recom- 
nended. Tlie Seven Chain Lakes are north of 
ndian River about seven miles, reached over an in- 
lifferent road. Bonney's little hotel on the third 
ake, which is the largest of the group, furnishes neces- 
lary accommodations. From the fifth lake a trail-and- 
vater route leads north to Newcomb, something over 
en miles distance. Indian Lake (P. O.) is one 
nile west of Indian River. A few houses at inter- 
nals along the road, and a very comfortable looking 
lotel called the Ordway house, with stores, and a 
)ost-office, constitute the village. 

Indian Lake (that is, the lake proper), is about two 
tiiles south of the village. The original lake was 
ibout three miles long, but the " overflow" sets back 
n times of high-water, increasing its length to some- 
hing more than twelve miles. Lewey Lake, is 



184 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

twelve miles south of Indian Lake Village. The 
"overflow " of Indian Lake at times reaches back to 
the falls at outlet of Lewey Lake. In low water the 
river between the two is navigable, with the excep- 
tion of a short carry around the falls above mentioned. 
A little hotel at the head of Lewey Lake is kept by J. 
McCormick. Will accommodate about 40. P. O., 
Indian Lake. Cedar Lakes are reached by a 
rough eight-mile trail from this point west, or b}- road 
from Lake Pleasant, or via Cedar River route, from 
the Blue Mountain Lake road. The West Canada 
liakes, belonging to another system, and discharg- 
ing into the Mohawk, may be reached from the Cedar 
Lakes by short carries — all, however, reached much 
better from gateway No. 8. 



Fonda on the N. Y. C. R. R. 44 miles west of 
Albany is Gateway No. 8. The Fonda, Johnstown 
and Gloversville R. R. extends to Northville, 26 
miles, fare $1. Sacondaga Park, at the terminus of 
the railroad, has a commodious and ^ 
well kept hotel, and a number of 
handsome summer cottages belong- 
ing to private parties. Sageville ■ 
is the county seat of Hamilton 
County. 'It is a scattered village of j 
40 or 50 families, centered at the 
southwestern extremity of Lake 
Pleasant, occupying ground be- 
tween it and Round Lake. A stage 
runs daily to and from Northville 
281^ miles, fare $2. There is a tele- 
graph office and post-office here. 
The place is not specially noted. Hotels are the 
Lake Pleasant Inn with capacity for 60 guests, J. D. 
Morley, proprietor, and " Kun-Ja-Muck," formerly 
Call's Hotel, under the management of Mrs. Anna A. 




THE AUIRONDACKS. 1 85 

Mc^NIartin, will provide for 50 guests. Liake 
Pleasant is about four miles long. At its north- 
western extremity is the Sturgess House. Piseco 
Lake is about six miles southwest of Sageville, and 
affords good fishing. 

* -;:- ******* 

Cedar River is 20 miles from North Creek. From 
this point west runs a road into noted hunting ground 
around Little Moose Lake and the head waters of the 
South branch of Moose River. The way is rough, and 
the accommodations of a jDrimitive nature, and be- 
cause of these very conditions, perhaps, the section is 
visited by a sturdy class of Nimrods who have little 
afinity for the softer experiences of more frequented 
sections. It is 12 miles to the house at AVakely Dam, 
1 8 to Little Moose Lake and 7 more to Sportsman's 
home, at Indian Clearing. From Cedar River to 
Blue Mountain Lake, 10 miles, the road is through 
almost continuous forest save the occasional opening 
made by some stalwart settler, and the to-be-expec- 
ted " Half-way " house where the horses are watered 
and allowed to get their breath while the expectant 
landlord stands invitingly ready to .serve the passen- 
gers with stronger liquid. Note in passing the de- 
v'astation caused by the cyclone of 18S8. 




^ -j: r 



r-«i|5l' 



« ^ li S g^ 3 B 






ILUE MOUNTAIN LAKE HOUSE, 



CHAPTER IX. 

Blue Mountain, Raquette and 

Long Lake. 

BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE is fairly in the Great 
North Woods. It is the opening of communication 
b)^ boat with the magnificent system of lakes and 
streams which cover so large a portion of the Southern 
Adirondack Wilderness. It is an irregular oval -in 
shape, i,Soo feet above tide, extends nearly three miles 
its longest way, and empties at the west through 
Eagle and Utowana lakes into Raquette Lake. 

Blue Mountain Lake House is on the east 
shore of the deep bay which first appears as we 
approach from North Creek. Capacity about 400. 
John G. Holland, proprietor. The house is spacious 
and attractive. The main part is four stories high and 
150 feet long, with fine, broad piazza, facing the 
lake, and with a rear extension almost as large as the 
main building. It stands on an evelation, over- 
looking a grove of native trees, through which 
paths lead down to the sandy beach, from which the 
steamboat starts on its daily trips down the lake. 
Ten outlying cottages, among the trees, afford very 
desirable quarters for those who ma}^ prefer apart- 
ments removed from the stir and bustle of a great 
hotel. Telegraph office connecting with the Western 
Union system, and stage and steamboat ticket offices, 
are in the hotel. ' Stateroom and sleeping car berths 
can be secured here. Mr. Holland is the pioneer hotel 
man of this section. He is genial, accommodating 
and popular, winning the esteem of his guests; so 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



that those who have once enjoyed his hospitaHty are 
general!}' his warm advocates thereafter. With him 
the old house had a patronage greater, perhaps, ac- 
:ording to its capacity, than an}- other one in the 
^vilderness, and under him the new one likewise 
prospers. For rates, etc. , see appendix. Tlie first 
tiotel at Blue Mountain Lake was builthere in 1S74, 
by Dr. G. R. Martine, of Glens Falls, N. Y., to whose 
energy and far-sightedness much credit is due for 
the initiatory in opening up this now popular gateway 
;nto the wilderness, and for whose unswerving 
belief in the valuable curative properties of this 
tiigh mountain region, many have reason to feel 
grateful. The old house was burnt in 1886; but, with 
:haracteristic energ3% arrangements were immedi- 
ately made for rebuilding on the old site and the 
present house is the result. 

Tlie Blue Mountain House is on the east about 
I mile noith of the Lake House Capacit} of house 

11 , 




'j^" 










and cottages aoout "->o P C) , Blue Mountam Lake 
Open all the yeai A telegraph office m the house 



igO THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Tyler M. Merwin proprietor. The house stands on a 
spur of Blue Mountain, 200 feet above the water, to 
which the surface drops sharply. The view is one of 
the loveliest imaginable, revealing the lake in its en- 
tirety with the island-studded plain at our feet, the 
receding shores leading away to the outlet, and over 
beyond it the lengthened reach of Eagle Lake, with a 
glimpse of Utowana and the verdant slopes that com- 
pass about the shores of Queenly Raquette. A path 
leads down through the thick forest to where a fleet of 
dainty Adirondack boats lie snugly in boat house, or at 
rest on the sandy beach. The fare is wholesome, 
abundant and cleanly. A free carriage conveys 
guests to and from the Lake House, to connect with 
the stage for North Creek, and stages pass the house 
daily for Long Lake, eight miles distant. For rates, 
etc., see appendix. 

The Prospect House is on the west shore a half 
mile beyond the Lake House. Geo. W. Tunnicliff, 
manager. The house was built in iSSi and is perhaps 



^itltff^^nZ^I 



&mt~-^^ 



the most imposing of the Adirondack hotels, having 
more the atmosphere of Saratoga or Newport than of 
the simpler Adirondacks. It is notable as the only 
Adirondack house employing colored waiters. The 
entertainment is first class. There are two or three 
other houses here, cheaper, and principally with a 
local patronage. 



THE ADIROXDACKS. I9I 

The Blue Mountain and Raquette Lake 
Steamers, J. G. Thompson, superintendent, are of 
light draft, that they may pass easily through the 
shallow streams connecting the lakes. One of these 
boats leaves the hotel docks morning and afternoon, 
and connects at Marion River Carry with steamer for 
Raquette Lake landings. They are well adapted to 
the particular needs of the traffic here, and the service, 
while working with clock-like regularity, is not ob- 
trusively formal, but fits in admirably with the sur- 




BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE OUTLET. 

•ounding conditions. The excursion is one of the 
nost delightful ones of the wilderness— a source of 
continued surprise and enjoyment, introducing as it 
vere, the traveler to the wild woods and lakes in the 
nildest manner possible, and giving him just a sug- 
gestion of the difficulties of portage between waters, 
hat will be found later on. Extra boats are subject 
o charter, affording a means of exploring the nooks 
md by-ways of lakes and tributarv streams. The 
me belongs to W. W. Durant, ex-President of the 
Vdn-ondack Railroad, and owner of a number of 
ownships around this and Raquette lakes. As we 



192 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

pass out into the open lake leaving the Lake House, 
Blue Mountain rises in graceful outline behind us. On 
its western slope, high above the water, is the Moun- 
tain House; nearer is Thatcher's Island, the property 
of ex-Mayor Thatcher, of Albany. On the point pro- 
jecting from the south shore, near the outlet, is the at- 
tractive summer place of Colonel Duryea, of New 
York. Memorial Bridge, rustic in design, and 
resting on heavy stone piers, spans the outlet of the 
lake, its expen- 
sive character 
hardly veiled as 
yet by the vines 
that are de- 
signed in time to 
cover its mass- 
"iiiiilll II ive approaches. 
:,P4h A bronze tablet 
let into masonry 
on one side bears 
"^ the following in- 
scription : "Pio- 
neer Bridge. In memory of Dr. Thomas Clark Du- 
rant. Projector, Builder, Vice-President and General 
Manager of the first trans-continental railway, The 
Union Pacific, President and builder of the Adiron- 
dack Railway. Erected by his son William West Du- 
rant, Anno Domini 1891." Passing through the out- 
let with slackened speed Eagle Lake is entered. 
This lake is about one mile long, with low, wooded 
shores, except on the north side, where in a clearing 
stands the old log house known as the" Eagle's Nest," 
where " Ned Buntline" came in 1S56, and where he 
wrote, and hunted, and filled the mind of the public 
with wild reports of his erratic doings to his heart's 
content. He m arried a wife and buried her here, and 
then, tired of the old place, drifted out into the 
world again. 




MEMORIAL BRIDGE. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



193 



Ned Buntline (Edward Z. C.Judson) was born 
at Stamford, N. Y., March 20, 1S23. His adventur- 
ous career began in early childhood. He killed his 
first deer when eight years of age, ran off to sea at 
eleven, was promoted to midshipman when only 
thirteen, the same year fought seven duels with fellow- 

midshipmen who refused 
to mess with him on ac- 
count of his supposed in- 
feriority, and threatened 
to deplete the whole bud- 
ding navy unless he was 
acknowledged as an 
equal. The navy wilted ! 
He served with credit in 
the Seminole war, and in 
the Mexican war, and 
when the war cloud broke 
over the South, his 
venturesome spirit called 
him to the field once 
more. Five wounds by 
... , , sabre and bullet, one of 

which made him lame for life, testify to his service for 
the country he served so proudly and gladly, while 
with fine scorn he refused the proffered pension. 
Later, at intervals, as novelist, dramatist, actor and 
temperance advocate he filled the public mind like- 
no one under the sun but only " Ned Buntline " the 
irrepressible. His first story, " The Captain's Pig " 
waspubhshed in his fifteenth year. As a writer of 
';^ Frontier Fiction " he was unexcelled. Buffalo Bill 
Texas Jack, and Wild Bill were made famous by his 
stories of border life. His income as a story writer 
amounted to $20,000 annually. His literary produc- 
tions would make more than two hundred large vol- 
umes. He was foremost in organizing the order of 




NED BUNTLINE." 




ig4 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

" United Americans" and the " Patriotic Order Sons 
of America," He died July i6, iSS6, at his mountain 
home, the " Eagle's Nest," in Delaware Co., N.Y. 

A somewhat longer stream than the one we have 
just left leads through drowned lands, from Eagle 
into Utowana Lake which is about two miles long, 
narrow and straight, running away toward the west. 
Passmg through it and into its outlet the landing is 
soon reached where stands a rustic waiting-room at 

the dam which has 

raised the water, 
making navigable the 
streams back into 
Blue Mountain Lake. 
From this landing a 
road leads to the head 
of navigation, on the 
Marion River, a half-mile distant. You have noticed, 
perhaps, that the whistle was blown some way back, 
and in response, as we approach, a one-horse wagon, 
with a rigging somewhat like a hay-rack, makes its 
appearance. Into this the baggage is tumbled, the 
boats tied on (if any are there to be carried), and the 
weaker members of the party, or those who may pre- 
fer to ride, take their places. Few do care to ride, 
however, for this carry is simpl}^ an excellent road 
through the woods, resembling in no respect the slip- 
pery carries of the back country. At its west end we 
find another steamer, somewhat larger than the one 
we have just left but belonging to the same family, as 
you will conclude from its jaw-breaking Indian name. 
There is a steam mill here doing a good business in 
the preparation of the coarser lumber used in building 
in this section, and a large boarding house that will 
on occasion be found a welcome stopping place at 
night. The Marion River, is one of the crooked- 
est rivers in the world. It has no perceptible current 



tkp: adirondacks. 195 

along its reedy shores, but wanders back and forth 
between the low hills, in a succession of loops, that 
makes the way traversed, which is about two miles in 
a straight line, double that distance before open water 




MARION RIVER LANDING. 



is reached. This is the largest feeder of the 
Raquette, and enters it through a gradually widen- 
ing estuary, beyond which is seen the islands and the 
broad lake. Raquette Lake is but a great mass of 
bays, separated by far-reaching points, extending 
east and, west. Its greatest length is but about 
five miles, measured through islands and inter- 
vening headlands ; yet so irregular is its shape 
that the shore line, in its devious windings, 
is over 40 miles in extent. It is said that the 
first house built at Raquette Lake stood on Indian 
Point, where an effort was made at farming. 
A twenty years' struggle, however, ended in its 
abandonment ; and, when we passed by, in 1873, only 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



197 




one lone man-old Alva Dunning, lived Robinson 
Crusoe-hke onC)sprey Island, with ' only his dogs fo? 
^ ^ companions, monarch of the 

beautiful lake, the Sabbath 
stillness broken only by an 
occasional party in camp or 
passing boat. Later, old Al- 
vah gave up possession of his 
island and built a little cabin at 
the Mouth of the Brown Tract 
Inlet where he may be found 
still solitary and alone, a man 
with a history reaching back 
to the time when he ' ' carried 
water for the soldiers of 1 8 1 2 " 
ALVAH DUNKING. ^ '\ how different the scene ! 

njassof travel has pier^d'tt d^pThstdtth'o^e! 
aie teeming with life. Comfortable hotels have 

pass out m the gradually broadening lake mS ad 
dressed to Raquette Lake is delivered here unless ^. 
IS customar3^ each separate hotel, camp and cot^aS 
has furnished its individual mail^bag which ?he a? 
commodatmg steamboat captain gathi^ a "d delivers' 
wth^he nost^offi;^'^^^ ^^^^ in the building 

thanks^ai-e^dte't^^^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^- -^icg 

^r.^^^'Si® A^ Raquette Lake are "The Hemlocks" 

Of .he Post Office^L^n^eTi'3°^f^?„3.1.S?icSti;t 



igS THE ADIRONDACKS. 

on either side, one formerly occupied by Madam 
Gerster at the east, and the Cotterell cottage on the 
west, with capacity, all told, for about 60 guests. 
There are hemlocks here, but there are magnificent 




THE HEMLOCKS. 



pines also and wonderfully beautiful silver and yellow 
birches and other forest trees, while an im suspected 
clearing back in the woods, now under a high state of 
cultivation, supplies vegetables fresh and rare for the 
table. "Tlie Antlers" is on Constable Point, in 
plain sight, almost due west as the steamer leaves the 
mouth of the Marion River. The location is a delight- 
ful one, and commands an extensive view of the lake 
north and south, as well as into this deep bay from 
which the approach is made. It is a hotel on the 
colonization plan — a collection of camp-cottages, which 
may be rented at room rates, and a larger central 



THE ADIRONDACKS. j 









DINING ROOM AND 



MAIN COTTAGE. 



wMimms 
msmsm 

roiTdlolc?^®'" Camp a pleasant feature of the Adi- 



200 



THE AUIRONUACKS. 



terior with pleasant warmth, thawing the most crusty 
into genial friendliness — gather the minister, the 
author, the playwright, the musician, and even the 
haughty broker; to melt and become better ac- 




quainted in an evening than ordinarily by a whole 
season's intercourse in the hotel parlor. 

Mr. Bennett, proprietor of The Hemlocks and An- 
tlers, is genial, attentive and obliging and has made 
many friends. The two places, contrasting very 
strongly as they do, offer a choice of extremes, 
pleasant to contemplate, the "Hemlocks" full of 
shadows suggestive of comfort in the warmest of 
weather, the "Antlers" flooded with light and sun- 
shine, offering healthful warmth to the delicate on 
whom the winds may not blow too rudely. Each 
place has its special attractions and in common are 
noted for excellence of table. For rates see appendix. 
A road will be opened from this point to Raquette 
Lake Station on the A. & St. L. R. R., about 12 miles 
west, and stages will run to connect with trains. It 
is not certain, however, when this road will be in 
operation. For the present a line of row-boats and 
carry- wagons for luggage will run to connect with 
the Fulton Chain steamer at the head of Forth Lake, 
making a daily line to and from Old Forge, connect- 
ing there with the A. & St. L. R. R. Through fare 
will be about $3.00. 











' f ^'z^:^.^-^^-^ ^7' .^^^"^ >r-y n^i ij^ji^'^r4?* \ - > Z 



202 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Brightside-on-Raquette stands among the 
trees on the south side of Indian Point under ' ' The 
Crags." The main building is finished in native 
woods with a degree of elegance that bespeaks the 
artistic feeling of the builder who is also the pro- 
prietor. It is nicely furnished throughout. The ac- 
commodations offered are sufficient for about 20 
guests. J. O. A. Bryere, proprietor. For rates see 
appendix. Mr. Bryere is noted for artistic skill in 
the manufacture of rustic furniture. His services in 
this particular line are at a premium in the woods 
and many camps hereabout show beautiful specimens 
of his skill. Rush Point Camp, near South Inlet, 
kept by honest, big-hearted Jo. Whitne3^ accommo- 
dates 10. "Uncle Jo's" flowers are alone worth going 
there to see. Blanchard's Wigwain, on Green Point, 
west of Camp Stott, C. W. Blanchard, proprietor, 
offers entertainment for 25 guests. 

Unique and pretty features of Raquette Lake are 
its Cliurclies, one of the Roman Catholic faith, 
standing among the trees near the Post Office, and 
the other (Episcopalian) on a small island south of 
Osprey Island, where services are conducted regularly 
throughout the summer, the congregation coining by 
steamers and row-boats. The officiating clergyman 
of the last named church occupies the rectory on the 
island during the season. The Camps of Raquette 
Lake are elegant affairs, and although built of rustic 
material found ready to the hand, it is apparent that 
twisted cedar, shaggy spruce and silvery birch, in 
their native vestments, were not chosen because they 
cost nothing there. Some of these camps are works 
of art, and filled with dainty bric-a-brac ; generally, 
however, pertaining to woodsy things, and in keeping 
with their native environment. The pioneer camp of 
this section, and one of the most artistic in the woods, 
is "Camp Pine Knot," on South Bay. It was com- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



203 



menced in the winter of 1S76-7, by its present owner, 
W. W. Durant, and completed — well, to tell the truth, 
these camps are never completed realh', for one of 
the fascinating features of the camp is that it is 
bound by no rule of time or architecture. It expands 
and blossoms with the passing season, and is never 




CAMP PINfc KNOT. 

exactly the same one year that it was the year before, 
but it is always finished enough for comfort — it is 
"otetiwi." Echo Camp, on Long Point, west of the 
Raquette Lake House, tasteful and artistic, belongs 
to ex-Gov. Lounsbery, of Connecticut. ' ' Camp Fair 
View," on Osprey Island, belonging to Mrs. LaDew, 
of New York, is an excellent specimen of ornate rus- 
tic architecture. Deerhurst Camp, on Kenwell's 
Point, belongs to Mr. Wm. Strange, of Paterson, X. 
J. ; the cottage standing on the north side of this 
point is that of Senator McCarthy, of Syracuse. Sen- 
ator Henderson has a pleasant camp on the south side 



204 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

of Indian Point. "Camp Stott," the summer place 
of Com. Frank Stott, of Stottville, Columbia Co., is 
on the long point north of Ken well's Point. A camp 
belonging to James Tenyck, of Albany, and " Camp 
Hasbrouck," are on the north shore near the outlet. 
"Camp Otetiwi," (always ready), belonging to Dr. 
A. G. Gerster, of New York, is on the large island 
west of Camp Pine Knot. " Camp Osceola" on the 
west near the Brown Tract inlet, withdraws from pub- 
lic gaze among the thickly crowding trees, but those 
who are fortunate enough to gain favor there will re- 
ceive a right royal welcome from its owner, Dr. 
Seneca D.Powell, of West 40th St., New York. Happy 
the favored visitor to one of these camps, and happy 
the owner. Say what you will, the fact cannot be 
disguised, we are all children and enjoy playing 
house ; only, at sixty, we need a ten-thousand-dollar 
lodge in a vast wilderness, when at six, a piece of old 
carpet, stretched over a corner in the rail fence, satis- 
fied all our earthly desires. 

Sumner Park, southeast of Raquette Lake, is held 
as a private game and fish preserve by the owner of 
Camp Pine Knot. It consists of township 6 with por- 
tions of township 5 to include the whole of Sumner 
Lake and Mohegan Pond, the South Inlet and the 
southern shores of South Bay. It is all under police 
patrol and the public is warned against trespassing 
under penalty of the law. Raquette Lake owes much 
of its prosperity to Mr. Durant, and only the most 
rabid of communists can question the justice — as it is 
unquestionably his right — of reserving this part, 
forming less than half of his possessions in this sec- 
tion, for his personal use. 

********* 

Forked Lake is north of Raquette Lake outlet, 5 
miles long east and west, quite straight on its south 
side, irregular along the north and opening up into a 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 205 

far-reaching bay — itself the main branch on which is 
strung a succession of deep bays, with intervenihg 
points extending from east to west. This deep bay 
continues toward the north to form Little Forked Lake 
through which, by the "Bottle Pond Route," Tupper 
Lake is reached. Forked Lake House looks into 
this north bay from the south shore a half mile north 
of the steamboat landing on the outlet of Raquette 
Lake. This is included in the property belonging to 
the "Hamilton Park Club." Transient visitors can 
procure meals here, but it is understood that no 
permanent guests will be taken except members of the 
club and their friends. 

From the outlet of Forked Lake a mile-and-a-half 
carry is encountered (horse draw-over, $1.50 for boat 
and baggage), then follows nearly the same distance 
of uncertain boating to the head of a short carry 
around Buttermilk Falls, where the water dashes 
and foams over the rocks in a descent of about 20 feet, 
the name, not very poetical, probably suggested by 
the churning it gets in reaching bottom. This is gen- 
erally understood to be the "Phantom Falls," over 
which Murray went in his boat in pursuit of the phan- 
tom form, as described in his early chronicles of 
avdentures in the wilderness. ' ' A very probable story 
for a minister to tell," said my old guide to me once 
in passing. ' ' Why, I drove a brood of young ducks 
down over there once — the old one knew better than 
to go — she flew up stream ; but they — a dozen of 'em — 
went over, and only three came out alive. He talk of 
shooting Buttermilk Falls — there isn't Baptist enough 
about him — but there's one thing he can 'shoot'; 
that's the long bow." Alas for Mr. Murray's reputa- 
tion for veracity ! The beautiful creations of fancy, 
conjured up by his fertile brain, are held as witnesses 
against him, simply because, in his lavish generosity, 
he enriched the common occurrences of every-day 



2o6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

life in the woods with the precious incense of concep- 
tive genius, and left a dazzled world to separate the 
real from the ideal ! The guides took him literally, 
and, although then in the high tide of his popularity, 
had come to the conclusion that if his preaching was 
not a better guide to Heaven than his book to the 
Adirondacks his congregation might manage to worry 
along with a cheaper man. 

Another half mile of boating with another carry of 
equal length brings the voyageur to the navigable 
waters at the head of Long Lake. 

Long' Lake is about 14 miles long and i mile in 
width at the widest part, which is is near its outlet. 
It runs in a northeasterly direction, receives the 
waters of the Raquette at its head and gives them up 
to the Raquette River at its foot, which, flowing 
northward, passes within about 2 miles of L^pper 
Saranac Lake, then turns west, touching the foot of 
Tupper Lake, thence northwesterly past Potsdam to 
the St. Lawrence. Its shores are strildngly diverse at 
different points, showing bold cliffs, gentle slopes, 
overhanging trees and beautiful sand beaches at 
intervals along their extended stretch. It has several 
very pretty islands, the larger ones near the north 
end. Owl's Head Mountain, near the head of the 
lake, on the west, is marked on the map as being 
2,825 feet above tide, but as Long Lake is 1,614 feet 
above tide, this isn't much of a mountain after all. 
To the west the country is comparatively level ; on the 
east IS Mount Kempshall ; on the north is seen the 
blue serrated summit of Mount Seward, 4,384 feet 
above tide. 

Tlie Grove House is about two miles from the 
head in a grove of tall pines on the abrupt eastern 
bank of the lake, seven miles from Raquette and nine 
miles from Blue Mountain lake. Capacity of house 
50. David Helms, proprietor. Post-office (Grove, 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 207 

Hamilton Co.) in the house. Open all the year. 
Special rates are offered to parties remaining any 
considerable time. For particulars see appendix. 
Pleasant features of the place are its open camps, and 
cottages with open fire places. Mr. Helms is a noted 
guide and hunter and his house a favorite resort for 
hunters and fishermen, who know that his experience 
and advice may be relied upon. He knows where the 
trout, the bass and the pickerel are to be found in 
their season ; where the duck swims, the partridge 
hides and the deer runs, and his knowledge is freely 
placed at the service of his visitors. Mr. Helms will 
carry boats, passengers or baggage from this point to 
Forked or Blue Mountain Lakes on application. This 
is sometimes done to avoid the, at times, difficult 
portion of the water route. It is proposed to run a 
boat line from this point via the Slim Pond route to 
Horseshoe Pond on the A. & St. L. R. R. Address Mr. 
Helms for particulars. 

Tlie NeTV Sagamore stands on a blulf project- 
ing from the east shore of the lake about 4 miles from 
its head. It has capacity for about 250 guests. Ed- 
ward Butler, proprietor ; Post Office, Long Lake. From 
its location it commands a view of almost the entire 
length of the lake, north and south. This is the 
grand hotel of this section. The erection of the old 
hotel here in 18S5 marked an era in the history of the 
town by creating a prosperous business out of the 
pleasures and necessities of its guests. It ''was burnt 
to the ground in the fall of 1SS9 with all its contents. 
The new house erected in the place of the old, is very 
like the original except that it is finer and grander in 
all respects. It is ample in all its proportions with 
spacious halls, office, dining room and parlors and a 
general smoking and lounging room where guide and" 
sportsman gather to make plans for coming excur- 
sions or to live over again the stirring events of the 



; ; 



'tjr r!«i4 










J 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 209 

day. It has all the necessary conveniences of the 
modern hotel, substantially, and in parts, elegantly 
furnished, and will be found as comfortable as any 
visitor can reasonabl}- desire. From a knowledge of 
the house under Mr. Butler's management in former 
years, it is safe to predict that the table will be excep- 
tionally good and the house full of woodsy comfort, 
very captivating to those who come to avoid the con- 
ventionalities of the average summer hotel. Con- 
nection is had with the W. U. telegraph in the Saga- 
more office. Mails arrive and depart daily. Stages 
will run to Blue Mt. Lake ; nine miles distant, to con- 
nect with the regular line to trains at North Creek, or 
private conveyance to the railroad, much more com- 
fortable than the stages, will be furnished, carrying 
three or more persons with light luggage at S6.00 
each. Regular stage fare to Blue Mountain Lake is 
$i.So, to North Creek $4.50. When the proposed 
road to the A. & St. L. R. R. at Horseshoe Pond 
is completed stages will run to connect with trains. 
Address E. Butler for particulars. 

The Lake House is a quarter of a mile north of the 
Sagamore — at the point where the road from the east 
comes to the lake — will provide for about 30. W. F. 
McCarthy, manager. Long Lake Hotel at the village 
will provide for man and beast at a moderate price. 
Helms 8z Smith, proprietors. 

f". Long Lake (village) lies a half mile east of the 
Lake. In the matter of business Long Lake lumbers 
some, farms some, trades a little, hunts and guides 
considerably, and makes sporting boats of superior 
quality and of a build that is recognized and spoken 
of generally as the " Long Lake boat," although the 
one in question may have been built man}- miles 
away. Although spots hereabout have been settled 
and cultivated for many years, this section has, for 
lack of satisfactory accommodations and transporta- 
tion facilities, been neglected by sportsmen and sum- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



mer visitors, and as a consequence has retained much 
of its wildness in its immediate surroundings. With 
the reopening of the Sagamore, and the attendant im- 
improvement in transportation, the objections that 
have retarded its advance are removed and its back- 
ward development will prove rather an attraction 
than otherwise. Another factor in its development is 
the growing interest in wild cottage sites — the natural 

longing of man for ' ' a 
lodge in some vast 
wilderness " — and the 
resultant organization 
of a company wnth a 
jDreserve of 4,000 acres 
of land lying on both 
shores of the lake, and 
the offer through their 
agent, of camp and villa 
sites of lo-acre lots 
each, including the 
the game and forest 
privilege of the entire 
tract, on a three or five 
year lease with the privilege of purchasing at from 
$500 to $1,000 any time during its continuance. Ap- 
plication for purchase or lease may be made to 
General Hazard Stevens, 85 Devonshire street, Bos- 
ton, Mass., or to M. R. Sutton, Agent, Long Lake, 
N. Y. Among those who have become purchasers 
are Rev. F. S. Haines of Easton, Pa., and Dr. J. H. 
Woodward of Burlington, Vt., who has built a pretty 
camp at " White Birches " Point. Senator Piatt has 
a summer camp on the east shore near the outlet, 
and nearly opposite is the camp of Rev. Dr. Duryea. 
The Island House, on an island near the outlet, 
affords entertainment to such as may at any time 
from choice or necessity be at that end of the lake. 
For the Raqu»tte River see page 90. 




CHAPTER X. 



The Great West Lake Recjion. 

HERKIMER, 80 miles west of Albany, may be 
termed gateway No. 9, although for a fact it 
supercedes most of the old western gateways, and 

divides with east-side 
lines the patronage of 
the important central 
•esorts. From this 
point the Adiron- 
dack & St. Law- 
rence Railroad 
extends in a north- 
easterl}^ direction, 
centrally through the 
lake region of the 
A^dirondacks, passing 
about two miles west 
of the Fulton Chain 
to Tupper Lake; 
thence around the 
head of Upper Sara- 
nac Lake, with a 
branch to the Lower 
Lake ; thence north- 
Loon Lake to Malone. The 
Hudson River Railroad, of 



km. 


,„H1E*U0»' 


T^' 




P 


^Sl5A)^ 


rA '-• iff*-!?'^ 


\^ 






»'''"' 


P&^e>i,WLl 


4.„n 


\'P"\i 


^^ '"C5 


w_ 




Y 


ij \* 




'^ 


Jthi. 


„/,U-p 






« ^^^^ h 





erly past Rainbow and 

New York Central & 

which the A. & St. L. is an important branch, carries 

by far the larger proportion of the people who go out 

of New York to the lakes and mountains of the north. 

In addition to trains running to Saratoga and east side 

resorts are Special fast express trains from Grand 



212 THE ADIKONDACKS. 

Central Station, New York, morning and evening 
composed of Wagner Vestibule Buffet Drawing-room 
and Sleeping Cars, running through without change 
to Trenton Falls, Fulton Chain Lakes, Childwold, 
Tupper Lake, Saranac Lake, Paul Smith's, Loon 
Lake, ]\Ialone, Montreal and Ottawa. 

Moose River House is 4 miles west of Mc- 
Keever, which is 269 miles from New York. Capacity 
30. C. M. Barrett, proprietor. This house is on the 
western border of the Great Wilderness and affords 
good hunting and lishing for those who may not care 
to penetrate deeper. It is 1 1 milas from Port Leyden 
and 12 miles from Boonville. on the R., W. & O. Rail- 
road. Conveyance for these points can be had of Mr. 
Barrett. For price of board, etc,, see appendix. 

Fulton Cliain (station) is 2S1 miles from New 
York. Here is the old Arnold clearing, which a cen- 
tury ago promised to become a centre of consider- 
able importance. This section is often spoken of as 
the " Brown Tract " and comprehends the lands 
lying around the head-waters of the Moose River. 
It was so called after John Brown, of Providence, 
R. I. , (who must not be confounded with that other 
John Brown, the " Old Man of Ossawatomie," who 
lies buried at North Elba) who became its owner in 
1793. Under direction of Brown's son-in-law a large 
forge was built below the first of the Fulton Chain of 
Lakes and the manufacture of iron attempted. At 
one time thirty to forty families w^ere gathered here 
but the venture proved a failure and little besides the 
more substantial portions of the old forge remains 
now to mark the spot. Old Forge (hamlet and 
P. O.) is two miles from the station at the old forge 
dam built on the outlet of the Fulton Chain of Lakes. 
It consists of a dozen or so houses, a saw-mill, the 
Fulton Chain Fish Hatchery and a very good hotel — 
Tlie Forge House — with capacity for about 120 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 21 3 

guests. This house is open all the year. Garmon & 
Crosby, proprietors. Stage to station, 25 cents. 

The Adirondack League Club Preserve lies 
southeast of Old Forge, partially in Herkimer and 
partially in Hamilton counties. This is one of the 
largest private sporting preserves in this country, the 
forest lands owned by the Club in fee comprising 
over 104,000 acres, while it has leased the exclusive 
hunting and fishing privileges of about 75,000 acres 
more, adjoining its property on the east and south. 
The section has an average elevation of 2,200 feet. 
The old Bisby Club, with its 25 members, has recently 
consolidated with the Adirondack League Club, 
under the name of the latter. The oldest of all the 
Adirondack clubs joined in interests with the largest! 
The Bisby Club owned 320 acres and leased many 
thousand in the Woodhull tract, directly west of the 
League's great Preserve. First Bisby Lake, and the 
other near waters, are abundantly stocked with fish. 
The Club house on First Bisby is comfortable and 
pleasant, and will be an important and useful link in 
the chain of club houses and club camps, which the 
League is establishing throughout its preserve. All 
the property of the Bisby Club has been deeded to 
the League and the members of the former become 
members of the latter, while the Bisby Club, as such, 
goes out of existence. 

The Adirondack League Club was organized in 
i8go by a number of gentlemen of sporting pro- 
clivities, for the purpose of establishing a game pre- 
serve in a chosen quarter of the Adirondack wilder- 
ness and to put into practice the system of rational 
forestry prevailing on the continent of Europe, which 
reconciles the preservation and continual repro- 
duction of forest areas with a continual and increas- 
ing income. The Trustees of the Club are Abraham 
G.' :\Iills, Hon. Warner Miller, Hon. Henry E. How- 



214 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

land, Robert C. Alexander, Dr. Bernhard E. Fernow, 
Alexander R. Harper, Henry S. Harper, Frederick 
G. Burnham, Mills W. Barse, Ole L. Snyder, Hon. 
Warren Higley, Rev. Samuel J. Niccolls, D.D., Wm. 
H. Boardman, Wm. G. DeWitt, George H. Ripley. 

The officers are: President, A. G. Mills; Vice-Pres- 
ident, Warren Higley ; Treasurer, Henry S. Harper ; 
Secretary, R. C. Alexander. Prof. B. E. Fernow, 
Chief of the Forestry Division of the Department of 
Agriculture at Washington, is one of the Trustees, 
and the forestry adviser of the Club, and is in the ac- 
tive management of its forest policy. A contract for 
the removal of the spruce above 12 inches in diameter 
at a stumpage price, which already guarantees the 
Club an income from this source of $30,000 a year, is 
in operation, and this income it is claimed could be 
increased to $60,000 a year without detriment to the 
tract as a hunting or fishing preserve, and with posi- 
tive benefit to the forest. Prof. Fernow estimates at 
a round million dollars the value of the merchantable 
timber which could be removed to the forest's imme- 
diate advantage. 

The plan of the Club contemplates a possible mem- 
bership of 500. Membership shares are $1,200 per 
share. Each share is unassessible. cftid entitles the 
holder to an undivided live-hundredth interest in the 
property, with all its hunting and fishing privileges, 
and also to a five acre site wherever selected, for a 
cottage or camp, which is deeded to each member in 
fee. Most of the sites so far selected have been on 
Honnedaga or Moose Lakes, and several handsome 
cottages have been erected there. "Forest Lodge," 
the Club house on Honnedaga Lake, is kept by A. 
D. Barber, as manager for the Club. Here excellent 
accommodations are furnished to members, their 
families and guests. The approach is by wagon from 
Prospect, on the R.,W. & O. and also the A.& St. L., 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 21 5 

distant about 2S miles. It is also reached from the 
Honnedaga Station an the A. & St. L. road. 

Mountain Lodge, the new club house on Little 
^loose Lake is reached by the new road from Old 
Forge direct or by boat from that point to the Club 
dock on First Lake, a quarter of a mile from the 
Lodge. It is one of the most attractive and comfort- 
able Club houses in the Adirondacks, with accommo- 
dations for 100, but, alas! is open only to members of 
the Club and their invited guests. Cap. H. G. Otis 
is manager for the Club. Each member of the Club 
is entitled to invite a friend for two weeks each sea- 
son to accompany him. Applications for membership 
may be sent to Hon. Warner ]Miller, Chairman of the 
Committee on Admissions, 44 Wall St. , New York, or 
to Robert C. Alexander, Secretary, 203 Broadway, 
New York. 

The Fulton Cbain is composed of eight lakes 
extending in a northeasterly direction from Old Forge. 
Their combined lengths, with connecting streams 
and carries, including 4 miles boating on the Brown 
Tract Inlet into, Raquette Lake — is about 26 miles. 
The dam at Old Forge renders the stream navigable 
and makes First, Second and Third lakes practically 
one sheet of water. Third Lake Camp, Robert Perrie, 
proprietor, is at the head of Third Lake, five miles 
from Old Forge. It is a combination frame and log 
house and will provide for about twenty guests. 
Fourth Lake is the largest of the chain, being nearly 
six miles in length. It contains a number of pretty 
islands and a number of public camps where enter- 
tainment can be obtained at from S? to $10 per week. 
The most noted of these are the Fourth Lake House 
near the outlet, C. S. Halliday, proprietor, and the 
Cedar Island Camp, W. C. Augur, proprietor, on an 
island near the head of the lake. In addition are the 
Alexander and the Arnold Camps at points on the 



2t6 the adirondacks. 

south shore; Wood's Camp, kept by A. Wood, near 
the north end, and the Hess Camp at the outlet of 
Fifth Lake. A half mile stream, navigable during 
high water, connects Fourth Lake with Fifth, which 
•is but a little pond from which a half mile carr}^ leads 
into Sixth Lake. The shores here and of the stream 
through which we go into Seventh are a slim}- protest 
against the damming and overflow of public lands. 
Seventh Lake is about two miles long with sandy 
beach in places, its beauty much impaired, however, 
by the flooding that renders the inlet up which we go, 
one mile, anything but attractive. From the head of 
navigation, a mile carry leads into Eigth Lake which, 
wonderful to relate, still preserves its shores almost 
untouched by man. This lake is two miles in length 
and contains an island on which Old Alva Dunning, 
the guide, has built a log camp. A trail one and a 
half mile long passes up over the divide from the head 
of Eighth Lake and down to the Brown Tract Inlet, 
which, followed eastward four miles of devious 
Avinding brings the voyageur to Raquette Lake, for 
which see page 195. A Boat Line has been estab- 
lished for carrying passengers through from (Jld 
Forge. Fare for the trip $3. Steamer Fulton, 
Capt. E. L. Sheppard, runs daily, morning and after- 
noon (Sunday excepted), from the head of Fourth 
Lake to Old Forge and return. Fare 50 cents to $1.00 
from various points according to distance, the same 
being excursion rates and good for return to starting 
point the same day. 

"Big Moose liake is 33^ miles from Big Moose 
Station and may be reached by buckboard and boat. 
It lies about five miles in an air line north of Fourth 
Lake of the Fulton Chain and may be reached 
through Bub's, Moss and Second Lakes of the North 
Branch chain, by leaving Fourth Lake near Wood's 
Camp. There are several public camps here with 



THE AUIRONDACKS. 21 7 

rates from $io to $14 per week. P. O. Old Forge. 
Higby Camp will provide for 20. J. H. Higby, pro- 
prietor. Cramp Crag, on the south side of the lake, 
will provide for about thirty-five to fort}- guests. H. 
H. Covey, proprietor. 

Ne-ha-sa-ne Park belongs to Dr. W. Seward 
Webb. "Ne-ha-sa-ne" is Indian for " beaver cross- 
ing a log." It includes Second, Third and Fourth 
Lakes of the Fulton Chain and extends northward in 
irregular outline for twenty-four miles, to the St. 
Lawrence County line, including, with Mountain 
Park of which Dr. Webb also owns the larger share, 
an area of about three hundred square miles. Of this, 
the western two-thirds of township No. 37, townships 
38 and 43, the north two-thirds of No. 42, including 
Lake Lila (formerly Smith's Lake) and Ne-ha-sa-ne 
Lake (formerly Albany Lake) and territory to the 
west, are reserved for the owner, and- permits to hunt 
and fish are issued only to intimate personal friends. 
Permits will be given to any sportsman to hunt and fish 
on all the property except the above named, on con- 
dition that the state game and fish laws are observed, 
but notice is also given that men will be stationed 
there, and that the first violation of the deer or fish 
law will cause the immediate ejection of the offender. 
Stations within the Reserve are Beaver River, Little 
River and Ne-ha-sa-ne. 

********* 

Beaver Lake Country is west of Beaver River 
Station and may be reached from this point or from 
Little Rapids by boat and trail. It is reached by 
daily stage from Lowville on the R., W. & O. R. R., 
iS miles west. The Fenton House is at Beaver 
Lake, Charles Fenton, proprietor. P. O. Number 
Four, Lewis Co. The house stands on an elevation, 
overlooking the lake, 133 feet above its surface. In 
addition to the main building are cottages suitable 



THE ADIRONUACKS. 



iZeST%l\r'^ ^^ aggregate capacity for i6o 
ful ' BeJver Riv'' riT"^ ^^!.'^" >'^^^- ^he power° 
fSi-c ,-c \^^ ^^^^' ^^'hose tramping eround 

this IS, IS opposed to ' ' hounding. •• As a refulf deer 
that have been driven from other sections bv the 
dogs seek this quieter place ; and the true sportsman 
never lacks for game worthy of his skill Mr FeSon 
promises "to show from oni to five deer around he 

any d]^v m^the^^' f '^^ ^°^^^' ^^^^^ the c'ase of 
an> cla> m the early summer." Superior trout fi^h 
mg IS also to be had in Beaver River. H^ll be w'ell fo 
arrange with Mr. Fenton to meet you a^Lo will^ uith 
carnage as staging is uncertain.^ Beaver Lake ^ 

o^LTitl^d Vn The • ^r^^^^^ ^^^^>' o^wtfei'^ cSsely 
rv7.^f ^ T ^ ^^^ ^°^^^' IS called Beaver Pond 

car'ryt^th';'LT^^^^^ ^f"^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^' ^^^ -^^^^ -^ 
S^?south ^ n d^. ^ "^'If •• ^'^^"^' L^k^ '^ about one 
BeLver Ri^f J something over one mile in length. 
JBeaver River is quite rough above Fenton's for o 

v^^artnage, is of some note as a summer fishine resort 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 2I9 

the head (;f the overflow of Cranberry Lake and 
another to its outlet. Cranberry Lake was 

originally about six miles in length, but a dam built 
at its outlet increased its area considerably and 
changed its shape. Its altitude is 1,540 feet. Cran- 
berry Lake House stands near the outlet, and can 
provide for 75 guests. P. ()., Cranberry Lake. The 
" all land" route to Cranberry Lake is from De Kalb 
Junction, but the stage service is uncertain, and it 
would be well before going to write for particulars. 
********* 

The railroad passes in a northeasterly direction 
through Ne-ha-sa-ne Park crossing Beaver River at 
Little Rapids, thence continues between Cranberry 
Lake on the west and Tupper Lake on the east, thence 
northward and out through the hop-fields of Salmon 
River valley to Malone. 

The way opened up by this road is an exceedingly 
interesting one. Through the Bog River and Mud 
Lake region is much swamp and almost impenetrable 
thicket, with huge bowlders and outcropping ribs 
of rocks marked with the sign of passing glaciers of 
ancient days. West of Tupper Lake it enters a hard 
wood belt grand with sturdy beeches, stately birches 
and great round-topped sugar maples, then comes 
long stretches of cedar, tamarac and balsam thicket 
with occasional semi-openings of tufted swamp, with 
marsh-bordered lakes, singly, in pairs, in triplets, in 
clusters ; many of them without visible outlet, yet 
clear as crystal in their setting of green. It is a study 
of deep interest for one who delights to read in 
nature's ever-varying book as the leaves are turned, 
to find her inmost retreats laid open to the eye, and 
the results of weeks of toil condensed within a day 
while sitting comfortably on soft cushions in a swnftly 
moving train. 



CHAPTER XL 

The Adirondack Park. 

nPHE FOREST PRESERVE was established by 

" .11 fiT'^f of Legislature in 1885, by which enactment 

ail the lands now owned or which may hereafter be 

acquired by the State of New York within the coun- 

ties of CHnton, 
Delaware, E s- 
s e X, FrankHn, 
Fulton, Hamil- 
ton, Herkimer, 
Lewis, Oneida, 
Saratoga, St. 
Lawrence, War- 
ren, Washing- 
ton, Greene, LTl- 
ster, and Sulli- 
van shall consti- 
tute a n d be 
known as the 
Forest Pre- 
serve." By the 
same act a For- 
est Commis- 
sion was es- 
tablished, which 

ACKco.cK P.KK. (Light Portion.) :;X ' ' Ihl''''^^'^ 

"^^Mte^^t. ^"^ -P--tendence of the Fo?S 
±-ieserve. The Commission as organized at oresent 
IS composed of five members, namely EG Bab- 
cock, Hornellsville; Samuel J. TUden, kw Lebanon ; 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 221 

Clarkson C. Schuvler, Plattsburgh ; Nathan Straus, 
New York; William R. Weed, Potsdam. C. O. ]\Ic- 
Creedy, Secretary, Balston Spa. 

The position of a Forest Commissioner is an honor- 
ary one, the law requiring that " tne Commissioners 
shall serve without compensation, but shall be paid 
for the reasonable expenses incurred in the perform- 
ance of their official duties." In addition to the small 
clerical force employed in the office of the Commis- 
sion, in the State Capitol at Albany, the executive 
department is under the charge of Col. William F. 
Fox, of Albany, N. Y., Superintendent of State For- 
ests, and consists of an Assistant Superintendent, 
two Inspectors and twelve Foresters, all of whom are 
appointed by the Commission. In addition to these 
salaried officials, there are 2S1 Firewardens in the 23i 
towns in the Adirondack and Catskill Preserves, who 
are charged with the dut)- of extinguishing the forest 
fires which may occur in their respective districts. 
The Firewardens are appointed by the Forest Com- 
mission, and receive no pay except when employed at 
a forest fire. The}- have power to warn out a posse 
of citizens to assist in extinguishing a fire, and the 
men thus ordered out are also paid for their services, 
which, like those of the Firewarden, are a town 
charge. 

, Tlie Adirondack Park was established by law 
passed in 1892, and placed in charge of the F'orest 
Commission and its officials. Its lines as defined by 
the act to include the central and greater part of the 
Great Forest of Northern New York. At present the 
State owns less than one-quarter of its area, but it 
is expected that ere long, the rem.ainder will be ac- 
quired, and the entire forest within its boundaries put 
under State control. Before this can be done, the 
Legislature must make appropriations necessary for 
the purchase of the land, a measure which is being 



222 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

strongly urged by the press and intelligent sentiment 
of the people throughout the entire State. The Adi- 
rondack Park as outlined contains 2, 807, 760 acres, and 
has been accurately classified as follows : 

Primeval Forest, 1,575,483 

*Lumbered Forest 1,027,955 

Denuded, 50,050 

Burned, 13,430 

Waste, 18,526 

Water . 57,104 

Wild Meadows, 495 

Improved, 64,717 

Of the virgin forest, about 50 per cent, are conifers, 
although in many localities this proportion varies 
greatly. 

The following article on Forests and Forestry, 
by Colonel Fox, Superintendent of State Forests, 
gives concisely, not only the theory and science of 
forestry, but is supposed to embody also the views of 
the Comission on the topics treated. 

" Tlie Forests of our State cover an area of 
over 8,000 square miles, and are situated principally 
in the Adirondack and Catskill regions. The Great 
Forest of Northern New York, or Adirondack Park, 
is larger than the State of Connecticut. In our coun- 
try the woods have been destroyed so rapidly that 
now the percentage of forest land in the United States 
is less than in Europe. New York has 18 per cent, of 
its area in forests while Germany has 26 per cent. 

The preservation of our forests is necessary 
for the water supply on which our rivers and canals 
depend ; for the climatic conditions favorable to agri- 
culture ; for the sanitary benefits afforded to invalids; 
for the existence of fish and game ; for the preserva- 

*Forests from which the spruce and hemlock have been re- 
moved leaving a hard wood forest interspersed with young 
conifers. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 223 

tion of natural scenery ; for the delightful places to 
which our people resort for rest and recreation ; and 
because the land now occupied b)^ our great forests is 
unfit for agricultural use. But more important than 
any or all these reasons is that of our future timber 
supply. The others are incidental to this main one ; 
in securing that important point the others will be 
secured also. 

The forests, which clothe the slopes and plateaus 
of our mountain ranges, have important functions 
to perform. They are vast, natural reservoirs in 
which is stored the water that supplies our navigable 
rivers, the streams which turn our millwheels, and the 
canals which contribute so largely to the commercial 
supremacy of our State. This storage is effected in 
various ways. The leaves first break the force of 
showers, and then deliver the water slowly to the 
ground. The ground, or forest floor, or humus, as it 
is variously called, is a loose, cellular structure, com- 
posed mostly of fallen leaves, mosses and vegetable 
deposits held in place by the roots of trees, and capable 
of holding water like a sponge. This humus, protected 
by the trees, and covering in our State several thousand 
square miles of surface, holds the rains of each season 
and discharges their waters slowly through the count- 
less springs and rivulets which run to the mountain 
brooks, and thence to the larger streams and rivers. 
In summer the foliage shades the swamps, and, by 
protecting them from the sun, prevents evaporation, 
thus allowing their contents to slowly percolate 
through the porous soil and find their wa}- to the 
rivers. The shadows of the forest also protect the 
deep snows which otherwise would, in early spring, 
melt rapidly and be discharged faster than the needs 
of our waterways would require. But, if our forests 
should be destroyed, the sun's rays would soon dry 
up the swamps, the humus would be converted into a 



224 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

hard-baked soil, down whose impacted surface the 
rains would run unobstructed. The shallow layer of 
earth, no longer held in place by trees and roots, 
would slide from its place on the steep slopes, leaving 
the mountain sides gray and bare, down whose rocky 
declivities the rains would pour like water from the 
roof of a house. Our streams and rivers would no 
longer preserve their even flow, but there would be 
destructive floods, followed by disastrous drouths. 
This is no theory. It has happened elsewhere, and 
may happen here. In other countries there are many 
instances where a once fertile, prosperous region has, 
through the removal of its forests, and the consequent 
loss of rainfall, been converted into a barren, unin- 
habited desert. 

Another important function is the regulation of 
the climate. Forests modify the heat and cold of 
the seasons, temper or resist destructive winds, and in- 
fluence rainfall. It has been demonstrated that f amr- 
ing districts are more productive where a fair propor- 
tion of forest growth is maintained, than where the 
entire region, however rich the soil, is kept under cul- 
tivation. In some countries one-fourth of the terri- 
tory is kept in woodlands. The rule of the Duke of 
Burgundy was, * One-third to the hunter, two-thirds 
to the husbandman.' William Penn made a law that 
one-fifth of the land should be retained in forest 
growth ; and this at a period w^hen the forest was 
deemed the greatest obstacle to colonial prosperity. 

The Adirondack forests exercise well-known sani- 
tary powers whose benefits cannot be estimated in 
dollars and cents. Their abundant growth of balsams 
and other evergreens impregnate the air with the 
healing odors so effective in curing pulmonary dis- 
eases. Of the many consumptives who go there, 
over one-half are cured, or obtain permanent relief. 
Besides the sick, thousands find there a refuge from 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 225 



the summer heat of the cities, and thousands of tired 
and weary ones find in that retreat the quiet so 
necessary to their health and recuperation ^ 
h. ^^''®?i? destruction is due to various agencies 
bes des the reckless use of the axe and indiscrhninate 
tm.ber cutting The worst of these are the swe^W 
uncontrollable fires which, in years past haveS' 

fltlV?'''''^'V^'^' ^''^' ^^ ^^"^be? lands eavTg 
m their places a dreary, desolate waste. These fire! 
start m many ways; but principally from the work of 
inTfrom'tf "T^ land froi/raiLad locomot ves 
tratelerT Thp'^p'''''^??? camp _ fires of hunters o^ 
travelers. The Forest Commission has taken effec 
tive measures to prevent this evil; and durmrthe 

Fn'f Ss"^^^^^^^^^ ''''' frequent inTo^rde";! 

n^. 1 ^„ ®^' ^.^^^e were none m the Adirondack or 
Catskill region. Another source of widespread 
fo^'r^s'J^.'. ^'' '^' ^^^^ ^^^^^^^' ^^'hen built upofour 
kill tf r'f' ^^^«^an overflow of water that soon 
kills the timber and converts beautiful forests into 
vast pestilential swamps filled with decaying veee^I 
Th'^ AH^ '^' ^""'^ unsightly trunks of ^defd tfels 
The Adirondack Forests have suffered severely So' 
spnicf tree'^^-^^ in recent years has k'l^^d the 

decav of th '"' ^"^"^l^se numbers. This extensive 
causes but Pr^r?-^.'''^""^ attributed to various 
and Pmf pf.i ^^^^i^^^' ^^^' State Entomologist, 
ana Prof Peck, our State Botanist, agree that it i4 
due to the work of a certain insect^ Considerable 

arTaX.^dVo ^^^^^^f ^ ^^"°^^^^^« by ca?tl"ch 
are allo^^ ed to roam at large and eat the young seed- 

^leT" "^"^ '^' '''''''' ^^^^^-^h «f ^he Lod! r^^st 

Forestry is the science which treats of the care 
namtenance and management of forests. It teaches 

mnlSSe''n'rrt"T"^%^ more importance than any 
mmediate proht which they may yield, and recog. 



226 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

nizes only such methods as will ensure a perpetual 
timber supply. Further, it demands such manage- 
ment as will ensure on a given area the greatest crop 
of timber at the least expense. It mvolves the proper 
selection of trees for this purpose, and the best sys- 
tem of cutting and removing them ; the planting of 
suitable species, in proper time and place, m order to 
preserve the areas of existing woodlands and replace 
the timber which may be removed ; the judicious and 
skillful thinning of young trees m order to admit 
lieht and promote the growth of the better ones ; and, 
also the estabhshment of new forests in treeless 
countries. It does not forbid the cutting of trees ; 
for the matured ones may be removed with benehciai 
results and the timber harvested as well as other 
crops But it holds that no trees shall be removed 
until proper measures have been taken for the growth 
of others to take their place, a fundamental principle 
being that, in an established forest, the rate of cut- 
ting shall not exceed the rate of growth. Forestry 
means far more than the mere removal of ripe trees. 
For. instance, it does not permit the cutting of tim- 
ber on steep hillsides, where the removal of even a 
small part of the trees might result m a shifting ot 
the soil ; nor such cutting as might injure the remain- 
ine forest by too great an admission of wind or sun- 
light. It provides, through an intelUgent selection, tor 
the removal of undesirable species, and fosters the 
retention of profitable ones ; and it determines the 
proper admixture of hard and soft woods, so neces- 
sary in obtaining the most productive growth from 
the conifers. Nature will always reforest denuded 
tracts in time, if they are not too badly burned ; but 
the trained forester can assist and guide the work ot 
Nature the same as in other agricultural work. 
Through his botanical knowledge, he selects for plant- 
ing the species which will thrive best and yield the 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



greatest profit under existing conditions, and attends 
to the many details upon which their successful propa- 
gation depends. These details, which are necessary 
to success, are termed by some the technical work 

forestry has accomplished great and beneficial're- 
sults it has reforested desolate tracts where Nature 
unaided, had failed to restore the tree growth It 
has converted large areas of waste land unfit for ao-ri- 

?o th^'f ' '''u^}''f^S'' ^^^^^^^ ^'^^^^ ^^'^^^^ i^a^-e added 
thP f^rnr? ."^ ^^! ''T'^^^'^y- It has increased the 
the fertility of our treeless States by the establishment 
ot woodland tracts and belts of sheltering trees In 
maritime districts it has covered wide wastes of sands 
with productive woods, and, by tree-planting alon^ 
the shifting sands of the coast, it has, in manvplaces^ 
saved the land from the encroachment of the sea 

In the old and well established forestry bureaus of 
European governments the forests are so managed 
-hat they yield large revenues over and above the 
iost ot maintenance, without any diminution of their 
irea or density. In our country, owing to the lower 
narkets and higher wages and the need of immediate 
scientific methods of management are, as yet, 



)ut httle practiced, however well they may be under- 
tood. In some European countries there are 
^ orestry schools, in which a liberal education is sud- 
)^emented by practical instruction in forestry and m 
he technicalities of forest management. There are 
olleges m our own country where this subject now 
eceives special attention ; and it has been suo-eested 
tiat ere long our State should establish a Forestry 
icademy m the Adirondacks, where there are so 
lau}- favorable opportunities for carrying on the 
ractical work necessary to a proper course of in- 
-ruction. 

WILLIAM F. FOX, 
S2Cpe7-i7iteiident State Forests. 



1 



CHAPTER XII. 

Trout Fishing, Flies, Suggestions, Etc. 
By A. Nelson Cheney. 

N New York State there are but two species of trout 
native to its waters, the common brook or speckled 
trout, Salveliniis fontmah's, and the lake trout mis- 
called salmon trout, Salveliniis namaycnsh. Other 
trout have been generously introduced into very many 
of the lakes, ponds and streams of the State, notably 
the brown trout, Salmo farw, which is the common 
brook trout of Eu-^ope, and which our National Fish 
Commission has decreed shall be known as the ' ' von 
Behr trout," because the fish were first sent to this 
country by the late Dr. von Behr, President of the 
German Fishery Association ; the Loch Leven trout 
from the lake of the same name in Scotland, and the 
rainbow trout from the Pacific slope. All of these 
fish have been planted in Adirondack waters, the na- 
tive trout to restock the waters and the other species 
to add to the variety. It is quite out of the question 
in the limits of this chapter to give any hard and fast 
rules or directions for successful fishing, and what fol- 
lows may be regarded as suggestions only. At the 
present time trout fishing in the Adirondacks is con- 
fined to the two native species, the lake trout of the 
large, deep, cold lakes, and the brook trout of the 
streams and ponds, for they are brook trout, as we 
have learned to call them, whether caught in moun- 
tain brook, river, pond or lake, but I shall write of 
them as found in the streams. 

When the ice has gone from the streams and ponds, 
and the sun has warmed the waters a trifle, brook 
trout will be found in the deep water and holes of the 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 229 

brooks, and it is hard work to get them to rise to a fly 
They probably know that flies are out of season at 
this time. If the fishing fever is on, you must take a 
plebian worm and let it lie on the bottom until it is 
sucked tn by some lazy trout; then "yank" A 
little later, when the snow wa^er is a thing of the 
past, and the fruit trees are in bloom, and the black 
fly and the May fly are out to devour and be devoured 
and the lazy trout, by exercise on the riffs and in 
rough water, has become an athlete, then take your 
rod attach the patrician fly, and cast ever so gently 
at the head of the riffs, where a stone makes a little 
eddy, working doNvn gradually to the pool at the foot 
of the rapids, where the heads of the family "re- 
ceive," if they have not already anticipated your 
visit by going up the riffs like a quarter-horse, and 
taken your fly with a leap that shows you what you 
have to contend with. As the weather grows warmer 
they will drop back to the deep shady holes, invigora- 
ted and fattened by their visit to the graveled-bottom 
rapids. - It may be that you will now be obliged to re- 
turn to the worm or to a live chub or shiner, or the 
tail ot either, that when it is let down into the hole 
with the current and drawn up stream, it will whirl 
like a thing of life. I say you may be obliged to re- 
sort to this for there are holes in streams where it 
would be folly to attempt to cast a fly. If a person 
wishes to pass them by because he never fishes with 
other than a fly, some one not so fastidious may come 
after and bring to basket some of the oldest mhabi- 
ants of the brook. Should you fish one day and find 
that the trout are all seeking the seclusion of the 
deep holes and the evening, night or next day brines 
a shower to slightly raise the brook, as soon as the 
3ho^yer3s over try it again, but fish the rapids, for the 
trout will nave come out to see what the flood has 
brought for them to feast upon. A Httle later the 



230 THE ADIRONDACKS. 



deep holes get warm by reason of low water and con 
tinned hot weather. The trout have their resorts at 
this season as well as the angler, and so they take 
their families and travel to some portion of the stream 
where a cold spring comes in, or bubbles up from the 
bottom. At these "spring holes" the trout will be 
found in hot weather in great numbers, if the game 
law" has been observed. 

As to flies, most people have their own ideas ; but 
it may be well to say that out of the countless num- 
ber of flies, some of them unlike anything under the 
sun, the red, black, brown and gray hackles,* tied 
both as a plain hackle and palmer fashion ; coach- 
man,* yellow professor,* light and dark fox,* black 
gnat, green drake, March brown, fin fly, white miller, 
Montreal, Parmachene Belle, grizzly king,* and 
queen of the water,* constitute a good supply if one 
takes a half dozen of each. Even this is considered 
by some too many. I think I am safe in saying that 
the largest trout are caught at dusk or during star- 
light or moonlight nights ; if I am too broad in 
making this assertion I will modify it by saying large 
trout may be caught at this time by using a white 
miller, or a fly in which white predominates ; and, 
too, you must use a larger hook than the one you used 
during the day. If you have noticed a large trout in 
the stream during the day, and been unable to catch 
him, try him at night, if it is bright, and you may be 
reasonably sure of his rising to your light colored fly. 
Sometimes you may catch an obstinate fellow by go- 
ing above his resting place and slightly roiling the 
stream, and as the muddy water passes over, let your 
fly float as naturally as possible with it, and the 
chances are in favor of your getting the trout. He 
probably knows that roily water means a freshet, and 

♦Those indicated by a star are important, and should be in 
every collection. 



I 



THE ADIRONDACKS 23I 

a freshet brings with it insects upon wnich he feeds. 
The latter portion of May, the months of June and 
July are considered the best portions of the open sea- 
son for fishing in the Adirondacks, and morning and 
evening the best portion of the day, as the trout are 
then seeking their natural food ; but the ways of the 
, trout are often past finding out, for there are times 
when they \vill bite at nothing. 

I might' give directions for fly casting, but at best 
written directions are very unsatisfactory, and the 
novice will gain more of real benefit from a few les- 
sons given by a fly fisherman than from all the in- 
structions ever written. 

The coachman for trout is as standard as the Jock 
Scott or silver doctor for salmon, and for many years 
stood first in my estimation as a trout fly. A half 
dozen or more years ago Mr. R. B. JNIarston, editor of 
the Fishhtg Gazette, London, sent me some samples 
of the Marston's Fancy, a fly that was named for 
him, and I found it to be more killing than the coach- 
man in small streams where the trout are highly edti- 
cated in entomology, and my fly books are now never 
without a supply of these flies. As to tackle get a 
split bamboo, hornbeam, or ash and lance wood rod 
of three joints, about eleven feet long, weighing 
eight to ten ounces. This with an extra tip or tips, 
one a little shorter than the others, will answer for 
both bait and fly, unless you propose to " yank " your 
fish, in which case you need heavier timber ; a click 
reel to hold forty yards of braided silk, tapered line, 
waterproof ; a half-dozen leaders or casting lines nine 
feet long, of best round silkworm gut ; a supply of 
snelled hooks tied upon O'Shaughnessey or Kinsey 
hooks, with a landing net of coarse mesh, will consti- 
tute an outfit for brook trout in the Adirondacks. It 
is poor economy to buy poor tackle ; if you get any get 
the best, even if you get less. 



232 THE ADIRONUACKS. 

While I advise O'Shaughnessey or Kinsey snelled 
hooks for bait fishing, I believe the best hook on which 
to dress a fly is the Pennell-Limerick or Pennell- 
Sneck, hook made by W. Bartleet & Sons, the former 
for large flies and the latter for small ones. 

Bait fishing is not to be sneered at. But if you 
must use bait, take your angle or earth worm after it 
is scoured in damp moss, and pass your hook through 
the neck half an inch from the head, then gathering 
up a loop of the body and pass through again and again 
until you have the shank, as well as the beard of the 
hook, well covered and half an inch of " worm " over. 
Should your worm-loop, or head, or tail be taken off 
and the fish not taken in, put on a fresh bait. Unless 
you have some decided objection fish down st7'eam. If 
you use live bait (minnows), pass your hook through 
its back under the dorsal fin, but not so low as to 
break the back bone ; should you use a portion of a 
minnow, cut off the tail just at the dorsal fin ; put 
your hook in at the tail, and along the back bone, 
until the point of the hook nearl}^ reaches the place 
cut ; your bait will then be curved to correspond with 
the bend of the hook, and will whirl nicely when 
drawn against the current. 

Tlie Lake trout, although it will take a fly at 
times, is usually caught by trolling'. The modus 
toper a7id is as follows : With a springy trolling rod, a 
balance multiplying reel to hold loo yards of braided 
silk, or linen line No. 4, leaders 6 feet long of single 
gut, and a minnow gang, which is made by tying 6, 9 
or 12 hooks in groups of three to a length of twisted 
gut with a single lip hook about one and a half inches 
above the upper group of hooks, a gaff' hook, and a 
pail of minnows completing the outfit. Lake trout fish- 
ing is in order as soon as the ice leaves the lakes, for 
then the fish are at the surface of the water and it is 
really the only time that they afford sport in the 



THE AUIRONDACKS. 233 

catching, as it cannot be considered sport to troll with 
a heavy sinker at the bottom in loo or more feet of 
water, so put your rod together, put on your reel, pass 
your line through t*he standing guides of your rod, 
attach your leader and minnow gang, put the lip hook 
through both lips of the live bait, bend the bait and 
put one of the group hooks through the back of the 
bait behind the back fin in such a manner as to make 
it revolve when drawn slowly through the water. Of 
late years I have used the Archer Spinner in place of 
the gang, for when the minnow is impaled on the 
spindle of the spinner it must whirl, and the wings of 
the spinner hold the minnow fast and thus it is a bait 
saver, an important matter in spring trolling when 
bait fish are scarce. 

Buoy fishing' for lake trout is practiced by anchor- 
ing a block of wood, as a buoy in some deep portion 
of the lake. Morning and evening, for two or three 
da^'s, bait your buoy by throwing overboard bits of 
fish cut up about the size of a butternut; this will gen- 
erally attract the fish and keep them around the buoy. 
When you think the buoy sufficiently baited, put on 
your hook a piece of fish like that you have used, or a 
live minnow, and drop it over, and keep your bait 
moving up and down by a slight motion of your hand, 
tintil the sun gets too hot, or your seat gets too hard, or 
you make up your mind that there are better wa^^s of 
fishing. Buoy fishing is not practiced now nearly as 
much as in former years, but trout are yet caught in 
this manner. I have of necessity omitted much that 
might be said, but will say in conclusion, let the "sign" 
be in the head or in the feet, the next time you try 
them, may your baskets be filled with fair-sized 
trout, but leave the little ones in the water to grow. 



234 JIHE ADIRONDACKS. 

"Where tliey may be found. In 1SS2 Mr. Fred 
Mather, the well-known fish culturist, explored a 
great portion of what is known as Adirondack waters 
for the purpose of making an ichlhyological report to 
accompany the report of the Adirondack survey, in part 
relating to the distribution of the fishes known to the 
anglers as the " game fishes," such as are captured by 
rod and line. Mr. Mather supplemented his summer's 
w^ork of personal exploration and examination by re- 
ports from guides and others regardmg waters that 
he had not the time to visit. So that his report, so 
far as it goes, is reasonably correct and trustworthy. 
The names of lakes, ponds and streams given in 
the report, are those fotmd on the Stoddard map of the 
Adirondack wilderness. 

Brook trout are not found in the following 
waters : Metcalf, and T Lakes, tributaries of west 
Canada Creek ; Spectacle, Dexter, Spy, Oxbow, Coal, 
Scuts, Willis, Murphy, Warner, Remson and Bug 
Lakes. All others are supposed to contain them. 
!Lake trout, commonly called salmon trout are not 
found in the following waters ; None of the lakes of 
West Canada Creek except Spruce ; Indian, Ferris, 
Christian, Morehouse, Jerseyfield, Goodluck, OxBow, 
Metcalf, Sheriff, Canada, Coal, Willis, Nicks, Little 
Woodhull, Stone Dam, Wilmurt and the Eagle Chain 
of Lakes. By implication the other lakes in the Adi- 
rondacks do contain lake trout. 

Black bass are found in Raquette, Forked, 
White, Fourth, Bisby, Sucker, the Blue Motmtain 
Chain and the Fulton Chain of Lakes, Moose and 
Black rivers. Tbe Rainbow (California) trout have 
been placed in FultonChain, Bisby, Woodhull, Pleasant, 
Roimd Horn, and Jones Lakes, Moose, Oswegatchie 
and Black Rivers, and Silver Lake. Land-locked 
salmon have been planted in Woodhull, Mud, Sand, 
Little Moose and the Fulton Chain of Lakes. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 235 

You may kill Ruffled Grouse and Woodcock, 
August 15th to January ist. 

Wildfoiul, September ist to May ist. 

Squir7'els, black and gray, September ist to Janu- 
ary ist. 

Hares and Rabbits, not protected. 

Meadow Larks, November ist to January ist. 

Wz'lsojfs or English Snipe, September ist to Janu- 
ary ist. 

Deer, August 15th to November ist, but no person 
shall kill or take alive more than two deer in one sea- 
son. May be hunted with dogs from loth September 
to loth October only. Dogs not allowed in St. Law- 
rence Cotmty at any time. No fawns shall be killed 
at any time. Not more than, one deer shall be trans- 
ported, and then only when accompanied by owner. 
The violation of any of these provisions is a misde- 
meanor, with an additional penalty of $100 for each 
violation. 

All Trout, except Lake Trout, April 15th to Sep- 
tember ist. 

Lake Trout and Land-locked Salmon, May ist to 
October ist. Legal length of all trout and land- 
locked salmon, six inches. 

Fishing, through the ice in waters inhabited by 
trout. Lake trout or Land-locked salmon is forbidden. 

Black Bass, May 30th to January ist, except in 
Lake George, August ist to January ist. Legal 
length of black bass eight inches. 

Muscalonge, May 30th to January ist. 

Sahnon, which means the Sea Salmon, March ist to 
August 15th. Cannot be netted and the legal length 
is iS inches. 



CHAPTER XIII. 
How TO Reach The Adirondacks. 
FROM NEW YORK. 

From Grand Central Station via New York 
Central & Hudson River Railroad to Troy, Delaware 
& Hudson Railroad to Saratog^a and the north by 
Gateways 7, 3, 2 and i. See map, page 211. Special 
fast trains leave Grand Central Station for Saratoga 
and Lake George during the season, morning and 
afternoon, one leaving at 3. 30 p.m. reaches Saratoga at 
6.40, and Saturday night runs through to Lake 
George, returning Sunday night to connect with 
sleeper south. A train leaving at 6. 2 5 p. m. with through 
Wagner Buffet sleeping cars attached, connects early 
in the morning at Westport with stages for Eliz- 
abetUtown and Keene Valley; at Port Kent for 
Au Sable Cbasm. and at Plattsburgb with trains 
for Saranac Lake and Lake Placid. 

From Grand Central Station via N. Y. C. & 
H. R. to Albany, thence to Gateways S and 9, run- 
ning through without change to Fulton Chain, 
Childwold, the Saranac Lakes, Paul Smith's 
Loon Lake and beyond. For time tables or any de- 
sired information regarding either of the above routes 
address George H. Daniels, G. P. A., Grand Central 
Station, New York. See page 272. 

From Desbrosses St. Pier, North River, by 
Day Boats, "Albany" and " New York," daily at 
8.40 A. M., arriving at Albany about 6 p. m., thence 
as above to Gateways. During the season, fast 
trains run to and from Saratoga to connect with these 
boats, and on Saturda}^ night run through to Lake 
George. Fare, $2. For particulars address F. B. 
Hibbard, G. P. A.-, Desbrosses Street Pier, New 
York. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 237 

From Pier 41, NorthL River (Foot of Canal 
St.), Peoples' Line Steamers '-Drew" and "Dean 
Richmond," every week day at 6 p. m. for Albany, 

thence to Gateways as above. Fare $1.50. Meals 
are served on the European plan. M. B. Waters, 
G. P. A., Albany, N. Y. See page 273. 

From Foot Christoplier St., North River, by 
Citizens* Line Steamers "Saratoga" and "City of 
Troy," every evening, except Saturday, at 6 p. m., 
for Troy, thence to Gateways as above. Fare $1.50. 
Meals on European plan. For staterooms, or par- 
ticulars address Geo. W. Gibson, G.P.A., Troy, N.Y. 
FROM WASHINGTON. 

By Pennsylvania Railroad to Pliiladelpllia and , 
Jersey City, West Shore Railroad to Albany, 
thence to Gateways as above. During the season of 
summer travel through cars run from Washington to 
Saratoga. 
FROM BINGHAMTON. 

By Albany & Susquehanna Railroad to Albany, 
thence via N. Y. C. to Western Gateways or by the 
D. & H. to Saratoga and east side resorts. The 
Delaware & Hudson Railroad reaches the south 
and east side resorts. During the season of pleasure 
travel extra fast trains are run from Albany and Troy to 
Saratoga, Lake George, Plattsburgh and Montreal, 
with through Wagner buffet, sleepmg and drawing 
room cars attached. Northern connections are 
made at Mechanicville with the Fitcbburgh Rail- 
road for points east and west ; at Saratoga with 
Adirondack railroad for Luzerne, Schroon Lake and 
Blue Mountain Lake (see Gateway No. 7) ; at Cald- 
well with steamers on Lake George ; at Wllitetiall 
with trains for Rutland and the east ; at Ticon- 
deroga with branch' road to foot of Lake George ; 
at Crown Point with C. P. I. Co.'s railway (Gate- 
way No. 4) ; at Westport with stages for Elizabeth- 



238 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



town and Keene Valley (Gateway No. 3) ; at Port 
Kent with trams for Au Sable Chasm and Keese 
ville (Gateway No. 2) ; at PlattsburgU with An 
No rWoTth^ %^,^Chateaugay railrofds (Gate.ty 
No I) for the Chateaugay, Saranac and St. Reds 
Lakes and Lake Placid, and at Rouses Point wfth 
Central Vermont Railroad for the east, and the O & 
L. C. road to pomts west. For particulars relatine^ to 

A il ''''''' A^^.^/^'o^^^^' address J. W. Burdick, G.P A 
Albany, N. Y. See page 271 
FROM BOSTON. 
By Fitchburgh Railroad to Meclianicville and 
^t.f'^^,%T'''^^'^f'r^''' Saratoga and the north 
Bn^n^^I'^'''^ and Central Vermont Railroads to 
?afo.va"yfx"^, 3'^and'Z ^^^^P^-- steamers to 

Steamers see page 275 ; Cnateaugay Railroad 

see page 270. Central VermntR.R. fefDa^e o^^ 
FROM THE WHITE MOUNTAINS ^^ ^"' 

To Burlington and gateways as above, or by 
Portland & Ogdensburgh R. R. 'to Rouses' Point 
and by O. &L C. R. R. to Malone, thence by A ' 
& St. L. road to central points 
FROM MONTREAL. 

Via Grand Trunk R. R. to Rouses' Point by D. & 
H. to East Side Gateways. ^ 

Via. Grand Trunk and St. L. & A. to Malone yia 
^oteau, thence to central resorts via the A ,^- ^f r 
FROM THE THOUSAND ISLANDS 

thfnce^^^^^^^^^^ 

via"'! &s't' ? ^ ''•.''• cV- ^-Herkimer, thence 
via. A^& St. L. ; or to Schenectady and by D. & 
H. to Saratoga and east side gateways 



APPENDIX. 

It is intended that in the following pages will be 
given, in compact form, a list of alltbe botels and 
boarding-houses of the Adirondacks :\vith 

capacity, price for board by day and week, time 
of opening and closing, name of proprietor 
and post-office address, with other particulars of 
interest to the public. To this end all hotel keep- 
ers and those wishing to keep boarders are requested 
to send annually before May i, information as above, 
with particulars as to transportation, (stating price and 
kind of conveyance if not already given in these 
pages) and the substance of such information will be 
published free in the current number of the book. 

This Book is revised and published annually, and, 
as it is impossible for the writer to visit every portion 
of the Wilderness before publication, ever}- 3'ear, it 
will be considered a favor if anyone noting errors or 
omissions of importance will call attention to the fact 
either in person or b}- letter. 
Address, 

S. R. STODDARD, 

Glens Falls, N. Y. 



I NDEX TO ADVERTISEflENTS. 

jMphabetically arranged. Page references in black faced figures. 

Adirondack House, 261; Adirondack Lodge, 260; Amper- 
sand, Hotel, 252; American House, 266; The Antlers, 267- 
Ayers, Hotel, 71; Banner House, 250; Bay View House, 40' 
Berkeley House, 254 ; Blinn House, 35 ; Blue Mountain 
House, 267 ; Blue Mountain Lake House, 266; Brightside- 
on-Raquette, 267 ; Burleigh House, 246 ; Cascade Lake 
House, 259; Childwold Park House, ;»55; Champlain, Hotel, 
249; Chester, Hotel, 265; Crystal Spring House, 69; Cum- 
berland, 247 ; Fenton House, 256 ; Flume Cottage^ 261 ; 
Grand View House, 258; Grove .House, 269; Grove Point 
House, 234; Hemlocks, The, 267; Hundred Island House, 
244 ; Indian Point House, 250 ; Interlaken, Hotel, 251 ; 
Hotel Kenmore, ;tf43 ; Ladd's, 254; Lake House, Crown 
Pomt, 246; Lake View House, 248; Leland House, 264 ; 
Linwood Cottage, 73 ; Loon Lake House, 67 ; Mansion 
House, 244 ; Marion House, 245 ; Merrill House, 250; Mil- 
ler's Saranac Lake House, 253 ; Mirror Lake Hotel, 257 ; 
Moose River House, 256 ; Mountain View House, 259 ; 
Mountain View House, 70; North River Hotel, 266' Paul 
Smith's, 69; Pearl Point, 245; Fond View House, 256; Pot- 
tersville Hotel, 265; Rainbow Inn, 261; Ralphs, 250; Ray 
Brook House, 259; Redside Camp, 255 ; Richards House, 
247; Riverside Inn, 7cJ ; Ruisseaumont, 258 ; Sagamore, 
268; St. Hubert's Inn, 262 ; Saranac Inn, 254 ; Saranac 
Lake House, 253; Dr. Strong's, 263; Tahawus House, 261; 
Taylor House, 264; Tromblee's, 256; Tupper Lake House* 
242 ; Underclifif, 258 ; Watch Rock Hotel, 265 ; Hotel 
Wawbeek,a79; Wayside Inn, 263; WestportInn,247; White- 
face Inn, 258; Windsor, The, Saratoga, 263. 



INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. 24I 

RAILROADS.— Chateaugay, 270; Central Vermont, 273; 
Delaware & Hudson, 271; N. Y. C. &. H. R., 272. 

STAGE LINES.— Adirondack, 276; Leavitt, 276. 

STEAMBOATS.— Blue Mountain Lake Steamers. 274; 
Lake Champlain, 275; Lake George, 275; Peoples' Evening 
Line, 273. 

MISCELLANEOUS.— Adirondack Forestry, Long Lake, 
269; Camps and Cottage Sites, Lake Placid, 259; Camp Life 
'Book),244; Forest and Stream, 278; Gameland, 273; Photo- 
graphers, F. A. Kirk & Co., 269; Insurance, N. Y. Life, 277; 
Fowler's Livery, 259; Eastman Kodak Co., 280. 

HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES NOT INDEXED 
ABOVE. 
Algonquin, Tlie, $3 to $5 per day ; $15 to S25 per week. 
John Harding. P. O. Saranac Lake. Camp Craig, $3 per 
day ; $14 per week. H. H. Covey. P. O. Old Forge. Cliester 
House, $2 per day ; $10 to $12 per week. Harry S. Downs. 
P. O. Chestertown. Hia-watlia House, $2.50 per day ; $10 
to $14 per week. May 15 to November 15. Warren W. Hale. 
P. O. Axton. Higtoy Camp, $2.50 per day ; $10.50 to $12 per 
week. May i to November 15. J. H. Higby. P. O. Old Forge. 
Lake Placid House, $3 per day ; S12 to $15 per week. Geo. 
W. Baldwin. P. O. Lake Placid. Rustic Lodge, $3 per 
day ; $14 to S18 per week. May i to October 15. Chas. S. 
Simpson. P. O. Axton. Sagamore, $3.50 per day; $14 to 
$25 per week. Open the year around. (See page 2(8.) St. 
Hubert's Cottage, $10 to $18 per week. Open June i. 
St. Hubert's Inn, $4 to $5 per day ; $16 to $32 per week. 
Open June 15. (See page 262.) "Watcli Rock Hotel, $3.50 
per day ; $14 to $20 per week. Open June i to October 1. (See 
page 265.) Third Lake Camp, $2 per day ; $10 per week. 
May 12 to November i. Robert Perrie. P. O. Old Forge. 
"Willey House, S3 per day ; $12 to $18 per week. Willey P. 
O., Keen, N. Y. 



TaPPER bAKE H0ySE, 

T. & B. HATCH, - - PROPRIETORS. 

P. 0. Address, Tupper Lake, Franklin Co., N. Y. 

Recommendation. — " The best location for sport and as 
healthful as any in the AdironcIacks."-DR. Alfred L. Loomis. 

This house is located at the head of Big Tupper Lake, at an 
elevation of 1,575 feet above the sea, and is in the very center 
of the Lake Region, to which Dr. Loomis in his lecture before 
the Medical Society of the State of New York, called the at- 
tention of the profession (Vide Med. Rec, Vol. 15, No. 17, 
April 26, 1879). It is spacious and elegant, containing accomo- 
dations for one hundred guests. It contains large bedrooms, 
ranging in size from 11x12 to 15x17 feet, and has open fire- 
places in the parlor and principal bedi'ooms. Cold water is 
brought into all the floors of the house from a mountain spring. 

ADVANTAGES TO GUESTS. 

No Hay Fever or Malaria. 

Located at the entrance of the GREAT MUD LAKE 
COUNTRY, this house offers advantages to sportsmen who 
desire to camp near their families, and yet be in the part of the 
Adriondacks where deer and trout are found in abundance. 

To those seeking rest and recreation it offers with its large, 
airy and well ventilated rooms, superior location and benefits 
there being fine lake trout fishing in Tapper's Lake, and brook 
trout fishing in the adjacent lakes and rivers, no fatiguing 
journey is required for a day's sport. 

The temperature in the hotest months seldom rises above 
80 degrees. No mosquitoes. The house is supplied with vege- 
tables fresh from the hotel farm. 

Rates $3 per day, $10 to $18 per week. Special for a longer term. 

In connection with the hotel is a supply and provision store 
stocked with the best goods the New York market affords. 
Campers can rely upon getting at all times, in this store, 
everything needed in the shape of provisions and groceries, 
both staple and fancy. The proprietors buy goods of first 
hands in New York and will sell at New York retail prices 
with freight only added. 

Three daily mails. Steamer runs to connect with all trains. 

Tupper Lake House is reached from Boston via Central Ver- 
mont R. R., from New York via N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R., and 
Adirondack & St. Lawrence R. R., Wagner Cars from Boston 
and New York to Tupper Lake Junction. 

Through train from New York to Tupper Lake Junction via 
Webb's New Road. 

242 




HOTEL KENMORE, 

THE LEADING HOTEL OF 



S1ji?±o'bD.;y !F±3rsti- Class- 

Special attention given to tourists. Centrally located. Con- 
venient to State Capitol, other public buildings 
and places of interest. 



Free Omnibusses in Attendance at all Trains and Boats. 



H. J. ROCKWELL. Proprietor. F. W. ROCKWELL, Manager. 

243 




-^S^^--- HUNDRED ISLAND HOUSE, 

R. G. BRADLEY & CO., Proprietors. SHELVING ROCK, N. Y. 

Rates, $io to $17.50 per week ; $2.50 to $3 per day. Post Office 
in the house. Particular attention given to invalids. Tele- 
graph office within five minutes' walk. Fresh milk and vege- 
tables from Shelving Rock Farm. 



MANSION HOUSE 



ELIZABETHTOWN, 
NEW YORK. 

Situated at the gateway to the popular summer resorts in the Adiron- 
dacks, seven miles from "Westport, 600 feet above tide water. Finest moun- 
tain scenery, purest air and best water. To malaria, no hay fever. Tables 
unsupassed, appointments modern, sanitary arrangements perfect. Write 
for circular. Open all the year. Rates $2.50 to $3.00 per day; $10.50 to $17..'50 
per week. O. Kellogg's stages meet all trains. Private conveyances can be 
procured at all times by giving notice in advance by mail or telegraph. 

Mrs. S. J. LAMSON & CO., Proprietors. 



€CA]VIP 



Twelve Photo-Gravures of Camp and Hunting Scenes in the 
Adirondacks, by S. R. STODDARD, size 10x12 inches. Price, 
$2.00, postpaid. 

Address S. R. STODDARD, Glens Falls, N. Y. 
244 



THE A^ARION HeasE, 

12AKE GEeRSE, N. Y. 

Located on the west shore of the lake, about six miles north 
of Caldwell ; stands on a slight eminence, a little removed 
from the water ; commands a view of the broadest portion 
of the lake. 

Elevator, Electric Lights, Gas, Electric Bells, Telegraph in the house. 
Four daily mails ; sanitary conditions perfect ; pure 

spring water. 

Jersey Milk, Cream and Vegetables from the Hotel farm. 

Delightful drives. Good fishing. Every facility for amusement. 

Accomodations for 400 Guests. 

Rates $3.50 per day ; $14 to $25 per week. Send for 

illustrated book. 

D. ^V. SHERMAN, Proprietor. 
H. I.. SHERMAN, .Mana??er. 

Address at Glens Falls until June 10, after that date. 
West Side, Warren Co. 



WEkKL fOINT HOUSE}, 

Lake George, N. Y. 

One of the leading hotels at the Lake. Twelve miles from 
Caldwell, on the east side, in the 

MOST ATTRACTIVE PART OF THE LAKE, 
known as the "Narrows." It has all the requisites for 
pleasure seekers, and its 

FLEET OF SAIL AND ROW BOATS 
is the largest on the lake. 
Capacity, 150. Telegraph in the house. Four daily mails. 
Rates, $3.50 per day : $12 to $21 per week. 

D. W. SHERMAN, Proprietor. 

245 



RURLEIQH HOUSE, 

^■^ fr^ T /— » t-^ TVT T-k T3V •»-» /— k t-^ H. 



'9 

TICONDEROGA, N. Y. 

E. J. WOOD, Proprietor, 

This new and elegant hotel is pleasantly located midway 
ibet^veen Lake Clianiplain and Lake George. 

The building is of brick, 80x40, 4 stories above the base- 
ment. Mansard roof, 100 commodious rooms, newly fur- 
nished and supplied with an abundance of L.ake George 
water, heated by steam, lighted by electric light, hot 
and cold water baths, complete fire protection on each floor. 
All the appointments are first-class. Burleigh House is within 
three hours ride of Schroon Lake. Shortest and most direct 
way to the Adirondacks. 

Attractions include many points of historic interest within 
short range of this hotel, among which are the extensive forti- 
fications of FORT TICONDEROGA, built by the French in 
1755, and surrendered to Col. Ethan Allen, May 10th, 1775. who 
demanded it "in the name of the Great Jehovah and the Con- 
tinental Congress " 

Mount Hope, where heavy redoubts and fortifications were 
made upon which to erect batteries to bear upon the Fort. 

Mount Defiance, which rises 750 foot above Lake Cham- 
plain. Gen. Burgoyne ascended this mountain from the north, 
July 4, 1777, erected a battery of heavy guns upon its summit, 
completely commanding the Fort and dislodged the Americans. 

Lake George, (the "Como"of America.) with its many 
delightful resorts and thousand enchanting views. 

Lord Howe's Monument, erected near where he was 
wound d by a French scout. 

Fort Frederick, built by the French 1731, much of which 
remains in a state of good preservation. And many other 
localities of interest. 

FIRST-CLASS LIVERY connected with the house. GOOD 
BOATING within a few minutes walk on either lake. Fine 
opportunity for fishing, where tons of trout and bass are 
annually taken. Hunting grounds between Lake Pharaoh and 
George, abound with deer und small game. Telegraph and ex- 
press office in the house. Rates of board $10 to $20 per week. 
Transient, $2.50 per day. 

I^AKE CMAMPI^AIN 
LAKE HOUSE, CROWN POINT. N. Y. 

M. GILLIGAN, Proprietor. 

Rates, $2.00 per day ; $8 to $12 per week. Splendid boating 
and fishing, riding and driving. Free carriage to boats and 
rains. 

246 



Tlie WBSTPOE^T INN. 

Westport on Lake Champlain, N. Y. 

Mrs. 0. 0. DANIELL, Maaajjer. Mrs. H NRT 0. LYON, Asst. 

A thoroughly, well appointed house, with good table, mountain spring 
water and excellent drainage, wide piazzas, with a superb view of the 
Lake and .VIountains. 

Capacity 150. Rates, S3 to $4 per day, $10.00 to S21.00 per week. 

Good boating, fishing and fine di-ives. Livery stable near the house. 

It is within two minutes walk of the Lake Champlain Transportation 
Company's wharf, two minutes from the Library and Post Office, and ten 
minutes drive from the Telegraph Office and Depot of the D. & H. R. R. 

Stages to and from interior points in the Adirondacks twice daily 

TH^ RICHARDS HOUSl, 

WESTPORT, ESSEX CO., N. Y. 

This well-known house is located at the head of one of the 
most beautiful hays on the continent, and commands an ex- 
tensive view of Lake Champlain and the Green Mountains 
of Vermont. 

Its a'^ vantages for fishing are unexcelled, and will be 
appreciated by those who are fond of the sport. Boats 
furnished guests on application. 

There is no Malaria here. The air is bracing and the 
water pure and good. i v 

There are charming drives in the vicinity ; a good livery 
connected with the house. Those who wish to ride can be 
furnished with good saddle horses. 

Free coaches to all trains and boats. Telegraph 
office in house. 

Rates for board, -t3 per day ; $8 to H2 per week. 

M. A. CLARK, Prop., Westport, Essex Co., N. Y. 

CUMBERLAND HOUSE, 

PLATTSBURGH, N. Y. 

Located on Trinity Square. Richly Furnished. Every convenience. Table 

unsurpassed. Free i-arriage to all boats and trains. Rates $2.00 

per day. Special for extended stay. 

CHA-I?,XjE!S if. IBECBZ, nS^anzLageT. 

Late of the " F'orida House," St. Augustine, Fla., and " Hotel Windsor," 

Rouse's I'oiut. 

247 





Saratoga, 

Lal^e George, 

Lal^e Ctiairfplair], 

Ausable Chasm. 

If you visit any, 

do not miss the latter. 

DIRECT RAILROAD CONNECTIONS WITH 

D. & H. R. R. AND LAKE CHAMPLAIN 

STEAMERS. 

STOP-OVER PRIVILEGES ALLOWED. 

© © © 

Lal^e View Ffodse 

UNDER SAME MANAGEMENT. 

W. H. TRACY, Proprietor. 

248 



"The Hotel Champlain" 

{LAKE CHAMPLAIN.) 

On the line of the Delaware & Hudson R. R., 
Three fliles South of Plattsburgh, N. Y. 



THe SUPORB 

SUnnER HOTEL 

of the North. 

The northern tour is not complete 
without a visit to the " Cham- 
plain," the most desirable and 
convenient stopping place 
en-route. 

Strictly First Class. 



0. D. SEAVEY, Manager 



249 



■^*^^* 11*^ CHATEAUCAY LAKE. 

Open Jun e I 5th to October. 

Rates $3 per day ; $12.50 to $17.50 per week. Special 
Rates for Families. 



Cocoanut Grove House, 

Palm Beach, Florida. 



WiniEI ECSOE 

MATES, $3 to $4 per day. 
J. W. HUTTON, = Proprietor. 

THE MERRILL HOUSE, 'ZZZcT^ 

Refitted and refurnished throughout. Gives a magnificent 
view of the entire lake and twenty surrounding peaks. 2000 ft. 
above the sea ! The most healthful of summer resorts. Post 
office and Telegraph office in the house. Good Livery. Boats. 
guides and camp outfits furnished. Open Summer and Winter 
Rates of Board, *2 ,5U per day, $10 to $14 per week. Open May 1st 
to November 1st, address OLIVER YOUNG, Prop. 

P. O. Merrill, N.JY^ 

UPPER 

CHATEATJGAY 

LAKE. 

One of the Most Attractive Resorts in the Adirondacks for 
Families and Tourists. Fine Fishing and Hunting Grounds 
in the immediate vicinity. Board. $1,50 per day, $8 to $10 per 
week. Guides and Boats at Kcasoualjle Rates. Special at- 
tention to Sportsmen. CorrespuiuU-nce Solicited. 

R. IVI. SHUTTS» Merrill, Clinton Co., N. Y. 

t?) _ r^ ON THE LOWER 

I3anr)ei® j^oa^e chateaugaylake. 

Especially suited for families and those who wish a quiet and 
restful vacation. Rates, $1.50 to $2 per day, $10 to $14 per week. 
Open June 1 to Sept. 15. Address for particulars, 

J.S. KIRBY, Chateaugay Lake, N. Y. 

250 



InJi?i.n Point Hou5e, 



=|]@TiL » i^TE^LAl?^!^^-^ 



p. MERRILL, Prop'r. 




The New Grand Hotel of 

stands on high ground at 
the north end of upper 
Chateaugay Lake, com- 
manding a magnificent 
view of the entire lake. 
LAKE AND RIVER 
FISHING. All requisites 
supplied. DEER AND 
DUCK HUNTING in 
their season. GUIDES 
AND SUPPLIES on ap- 
plication. PRICE OP 
BOARD per day *2.50. By 
the week $10 to 114. Spe- 
cial for the season. Open 
May 1 to November 1. 
Write for particulars. 
W. P. MERRILL, Prop'r, 
Merrill. N.Y. 



raTnbow inn, 



ADIRONDACKS. 

J M. WABDNEB, Prop. P. O. Rainbow, N. Y. 

oInT foDnTONl AND IMPKOVEMENTS. . House new 
LTcLtSSS,l° Post omce.nd telegraph offl^,.e m ,h^^^^^^ 

ground for deer. 

251 



The New 

Hotel Ampersand 

AND CeiTASES, 

ON LOWER SARANAC LAKE, 
ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS. 

Telegraph and Post Office Address, 

Ampersand, Franklin Co., N, Y. 

THE AMPERSAND is fitted up with the most comfortable 
and modern conveniences, elevator, bath rooms, steam heat, 
open fire places in all public rooms and most of the bed- 
rooms, gas, electric bells, etc. Fresh Jersey milk and vege- 
tables from the Hotel farm. It is the starting point for all 
resorts and camping spots in the woods. One can leave here 
in the morning by boat or carriage, spend the day at any of 
the principal resorts or points of interest in the region, and 
return in the evening. The Ampersand offers special ad- 
vantages for the a^fiusement of young people— music, tennis 
court, base ball fields, boating, riding, etc. Tally-Ho Coaches 
meet all trains at Saranac Lake, distanv^e 1 mile. Sleeping 
and parlor cars on all trains. 

Transients 14 per day and upwards. Diagram of rooms and 
Illustrated book free on application, other information cheer- 
fully given. Post Office and General Store in the Hotel. Boats, 
Guides, Fishing Tackle, Guns, Camp Outfits and Supplies 
furnished, Time Tables, Ecc. Address, 

EATON & YOUNG, Managers. 

252 



UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT SINCE 1891. 

ON THE SHORES OF LOWER SARANAC LAKE. 



ROOMS LARGE AND WELL VENTILATED. 

Sinele or in suits of from two to six communicating. Elec- 
■ric bells and all modern improvements Large open fire- 
Dlaces in office, parlors and dining-room Nearly surrounded 
by a broad piazz^a. i,ooo feet of promenade Accommodations 
for X guests. The Sanitary condition of the house has been 
mnrovld and every precaution taken to attain perfection. 
K?e spring water. Connected with the house is a superior 
vegetable laTden and dairy farm which supplies the tables. 
Troia and venison in their season. 

THE LOCATION AND CLIMATE * 

Is highly recommended by eminent physicians for those suf- 
fering from lung and pulmonary diseases. Malaria and Hay 
Fever are unknown. 

SUPERIOR HUNTING AND FISHING. 
Deer, trout, wild duck and other game in the inimediate 
neighborhood. Trout are abundant in tins lake and the brooks 
S>/7^;^/° V/. Lake trout trolling and fishing is the best m 
ffay ahd June. Flv fishing in July and August. Deer shoot- 
ing in August, September and October. Partridge and duck 
shooting during the fall months. 

AMUSEMENTS. 
Boating, shooting,fishing,hunting,driving,croquet,bowling, 
billiards, lawn tennis, etc. 

A FIRST-CLASS LIVERY AND A GENERAL STORE 
Connected with the house. Parties can be supplied with all 
the necessaries for camping, including guns, fishing tackle, 

^ TelSrkpS'post-office and daily mail. (New York daily pa- 
pers delivered the day of their publication and Sunday papers 

^^Te°rms per day, $3 to $4. $'4 to $21 per week. Special rates 
^°DmgraSfs^of hSuse and city references furnished on appli- 
cation. MILO B. MILLER, Proprietor, 
H. H. TOUSLEY, Manager. Saranac Lake, N. Y. 



SARANAG INN 

UPPER SARANAC LAKE. 

Post Office Address, SARANAC INN, Franklin Co., N. Y. 

The Country of Fish and Game and Health= 
ful Recreation. 

TERMS AT THE INN, $4 per day. 

Sppcial Rates by the Week. 
Trout Fishing from May 1st to September 15tli. 
Deer Hunting from August 15tli to November 1st. 
Boats, Guides, Fishing Tackle, Supplies and Camp outfits 
furnished at the house. Correspondence solicited. Circulars 
and Maps sent on application. • 

D W. RIDDLE, Manager. 



BERKELEY HOUSE 



ADIRONDACKS 

SARANAC 
LAKE 
— ^^N. Y. 

STREETER & DENISON, Managrers. 

A First-Class House. Open Fire-places, Steam Heat, Electric 

Bells, Baths, Billiard Parlor, Etc. 

Fresh "Vegetables from the Berkeley Farm. 

Free Carriage to all Trains. Open all the Year. 

RATES : *3 to 14 per day : *15 to $21 per week. 
Address, STREETER & DENISON, Saranac Lake, N. Y. 



-LADD'S 



99 IN THE ADIRONDACKS, 

Sixteen miles south of Malone, 
N. Y., eight miles from Moun- 
tain View on the A. & St. L. R. R. 
Carriages supplied when wanted. 

The house was rebuilt in 1891, is modern, pleasant and com- 
fortable : several of the rooms are communicating and are 
thus desirable for families ; capacity for about 25 guests. 

The surrounding country furnishes fine hunting and 
fishing. Guides supplied as desired. RATES, 11.50 to *2 50 
per day: $7 to $12 per week. Noted for its freedom from 
fogs and flies. For further particulars apply to 

R. A. L.ADD, Duane, Franklin Co., N. Y. 

254 



Chrldwold ® Park ® House, 

AND COTTAGES. 

LAKE MASSAWEPIE, CHILDWOLD PARK. 

Reached by the new Adirondack and St. Lawrence Line. 
Through vestibuled trains direct to Childwold Station with- 
out change from Grand Central Depot, New York. 

Is an exceedingly attractive Game and Fish Preserve, 
charmingly located in the Wilderness of the Adirondacks. 

The Park consists of upwards of five thousand acres, em- 
bracing Lake Massawepie and a group of fine, charming, 
mountain lakelets. 

THE CHILDWOLD PARK HOUSE was erected in 1889 by 
the owners of the Childwold Estate. It is located in a fine grove 
of majestic forest trees, between two of the Park Lakes and 
commands an uninterrupted view of Lake Massawepie. The 
House is thoroughly constructed, pleasantly and conven- 
iently arranged, and admirably adapted to promote the com- 
forts and health of its guests. The table will be supplied with 
the best the New York and Boston markets afi:ord. 

The hunting and fishing are excellent. Canoes and experi- 
enced guides can be procured at the Hotel. 

The soil is of a gravelly nature and readily absorbs moist- 
ure. The lakes are peculiarly free from fogs. Malaria and 
Hay Fever aie unknown. 

A city physician occupies a cottage in the vicinity of the 
hotel, and may be summoned at any time should his services 
be required. 

CHILDWOLD PARK HOUSE is reached from Boston, via 
Central Vermont R. R. From Plattsburgh, via Chateaugay R. R. and 
Saranac Lakes. 

TERMS, $3 per day : $15 to $28 per week. Accommodations 
for 300 guests. Modern conveniences. Open fire places. Daily 
Mail and Telegraph at Hotel. Send for illustrated book. 
WM. F. INGOLD, Manager, CliUdwold, N. Y. 

REDSIDE -CAMP, 

eA$T ^IDG TUPPGK LAKG. 

Hunting and fishing resort. RATES, $1.50 Per Day : $10 to 

$12 per Week. Steamer daily to Tupper Lake Station, 

Through trains to New York, $12.70. Postoffice in the house. 

Address, MARTIN MOODY, PROPRIETOR. 

Moody, Franklin Co., N Y. 



POND vmw Houas, 

G}-.A.I_.E, D^T- "ST. 

The Hotel will be abundantly supplied from the adjoining 
farm with milk, cream, fresh eggs, berries, and vegetables 
and game in their season. 

Every effort will be made to insure the comfort and welfare 
of guests. 

The Hunting and Fishing are the very best. Catamount 
Pond is directly opposite the house. Boats and competent 
guides can be had at all times. Livery in connection with 
the hotel. Accommodations for loo guests. 

Terms, $2 per Day; $8 to $12 per Week. 

SPECIAL RATES FOR THE SEASON. 

Address, E. P.'GALE, Proprietor, GALE, N. Y. 
Railroad Facilities. The Pond View House is six miles by 
stage from Childwold Park Station, on the A. & St. L. Rail- 
road. Pullman Cars Boston to Childwold. Wagner Cars 
New York to Childwold. 

FJENTON HOUSE 

Beaver Lake, Lewis County. 

More Deer and Trout than in any other part of the Adiron- 
dacks. Cottages and ample play grounds make it a most 
desirable place for families during the summer. As a health 
resort it is conceded to be at the head. Daily mail. 

Board, $2 per Day ; $9 to $10 per Week. 

Address, CHARLES FENTON, NumDer Four, Lewis Co., N. Y. 

MOOSE RitfER riOfEL. rd?ro^nd%S^T?n^h^%va1 
to the Fulton Chain of Lakes. Accommodations for 30 guests. 
BOARD, $2 per dav ; $7 to $10 per week. Four Miles from the 
A. & St. L. Railroad at McKeever. C. M. BARRETT, Prop'r. 
Address for Special Conveyance into the woods. 

TDr^lVIRI FR'^ KaQUGTTe RiVGH, south 

1 r\l^l^l DLLLL O, end of Sweeney Carry. 
Daily Mail and Express to Saranac Lake. Splendid River 
Fishing. BOARD, $10 per week ; $2 per dav. OPEN MAY ist 
to NOVEMBER ist. Eight Miles from Tupper Lake Station, 
A. & St. L. R R. P. O. Address, 

OLIVER TROMBLEE, Wawbeek, N. Y. 

256 



ADIRONDACKS 

LAKE PLACID, N. Y. 

/^eeo/nmodatioQS for 400 Quests. 

^ALL IMPROVEMENTS. t> 

Electric Lig:ht, Steam Heat, 
Elevator, Tennis, Bowling, 
Billiards, Band, pj^^ Orchestra. 

Rates, $3 to $4 per day; $17.50 to 
$28 per week. 

^5 T^DDReSS 9 



C. E. MARTIN, Manager, 



25: 



Lake Placid, 



£KAN» YBW lOUSI, Essex CO., N.V. 

'CI o ENLARGED FOR 1893.^ ° T* 

overlooks Lake Placid and Mirror Lake. Large ^fn^- ^oteYstlle's 
^h^^S^r^&rSh^^ tSs Si^^y : SU t. S17.50 per 

week. HENRY ALLEN, Proprietor. 

Telegraph address. Lake Placid, N. Y. 

Kuisseaumont.Lake naciQ. __^ 

;; ^ mZrZ Formerly " The West- 

Itc pace Im.fii^j^^^^;'!'''^!': 



THE ADIRONDACK CO., Owners. 

Capacity loo. RATES, $3 per day. $18 per week. 
Open June 15 to November. 

Mrs. M. S. ELMENDORF, Late of the Lake Placid House, Man'gr. 
Post Office Address, WHITE FACE, N, Y. 

"iJ^j^i^^CLlFF^ LAKE PLACID. 

^f o r.hv«ir1an enlarged bv additional cottages for 
The private camp of a phjsicmn^enlaige^ ^ ^^^ ^ ^^^^.^j ^.^^^^^ 

families and single parties a geneiai^^^^^^^^^^ ^.^ ^^ ^^ no se..se a 
hall, for those seeking the benents o ^^^^ -^ carefully .avoided Ac- 

sanitarium, and every appearance 01 _ ^^^^ sanative benefits of 

commodations for 50 guests, lie axucic. carefully served table: 

comfortable canip-life with * ;;'\"^Pf -f^^e scenerv ; wild woods, boating 
quiet and rest in surpassmg moun^a n la^e^jl^Xres, telegraph and post 
^Sil^f t^?o^ur Ses Zeros' tile like, accessible by steam and row boat. 

JDJEI. CS^S. 33. ^LTOISr, 

Until July 1st, HARTFORD, CONN. After July 1st, LAKE PLACID, N. Y. 

258 



Ra^ P>rool^ Hoa^e, 

Telegraph and Pest Office, RAY BROOK, N. Y. 

DUNCAN CAMERON. PROPRIETOR. 

Midway between Saranac Lake and Lake Placid. Fish and 
Game a Specialty of the table. Trout Fishing in Ray Brook 
Preserve belonging to the house. Free Carriage to Ray Brook 
Station. Address for terms, 

DUNCAN CAMERON, Ray Brook, Essex Co., n. y. 

and the Great Peaks from the North. 
RATES, $2 per day ; $8 to $12 per week. Open all the year. 
Address for particulars, 
MRS. M. S. AMES <£ SON, cascadeville, n. y. 

Ca$Gad(? I^K^ HOUS^, Casckde^LaLes, 

The Wildest Mountain Pass in the Adirondacks Accessable 

by Carriage. Guides, Boats, Hunting and Fishing Material 

Furnished. RATES, S3 per dav ; $12 to $17.50 per week. Open 

June 15 to October i Post and Telegraph Office in House. 

Address, E. M. WESTON, Cascadeville, N. Y. 

fUKnisHEDcnnn-toimQE 

Cottage and Camp Sites at 

LAKE PLACID, ADIRONDACKS. 

CLARENCE M. NOBLE, 100 Broadway, N. Y. 

-A-i:>iE,ojsr3D.A-C3s:s 

In connection with all Hotels and Sanitarium. Carriages 
meet parties at Depot" on arrival of all trains. Orders by 
Telegraph or Telephone promptly attended to. 

W. S. FOWLER, Proprietor. 

259 



nDiKononcK lodge, 

(LEAR LAKE, NORTH ELBa. 

The Largest and Handsomest LOG Building in the United States. 

And the most comfortable house /"the^di^Wack Region^ 

Tastefully built, in rustic style throughout, it is 

thoroughly comfortable and fitted with 

Every Modern Improvement. 

Located in the midst of various attractions of the 
Adirondack Mountains. 

^pQiU ^a5iQtc fpom the ^c5ge 

DIRECTLY TO THE FOLLOWING POINTS : 



I 



THE INDIAJ^ PASS, 

AVALiAl^CHE PASS, 

IWOOflT IVIH-RCY, ^ ^, 

JflOUNT JVlGinTlRE, 
^O_o JWOUflT UO (or "The Bear"). 

(fo jflouriT com^Efi, 

SOOTH IWEADOW BflSlN. 



g^^sf^^^esS?^^^?^ a--f ^tS^JJ'^m^S^ 
^ Tleiolge"i"^h'e\eadquarters for mountain climbing in 
the Adirondacks. For particulars address, 

HENRY VAN HOEVENBERGH, 

PROPRIETOR ADIRONDACK L.ODGE, 

NORTH ELBA, ESSEX CO., N. Y. 

Or. n. V. flgeney, Room 23, 44 Broadway, flem York. 



260 



THE NEW ADIRONDACK HOUSE. 

Situated on an elevation west of the village of Keene Valley 
in one of the most beautiful sections in the HEART OF THE 
ADIRONDACKS. Modern improvements. Bath rooms, and hot 
and cold water on every floor. Electric bells in every room. 
Open fireplaces in public rooms and in 20 sleeping rooms. 
Walls finished with Adamant Wall Plaster— always dry and 
healthy. Rooms well lighted and ventilated, Mountain Spring 
water on every floor. Studio for the accommodation of 
artists, and a telegraph office in the house. 

Our own dairy. Butter, cream and milk always fresh and 
delicious. The table supplied with vegetables from our own 
garden, fresh every day. Horses, carriages and spring buck- 
boards. Good riding horses, Tennis Courts, Ball Grounds, etc. 

Stages (morning and afternoon) for AuSable Lakes, through 
one of the most wonderful and picturesque sections of the 
Adirondacks. HUNTING and FISHING in season. CAMP- 
ING PARTIES supplied with reliable guides, camping outfits, 
etc. Five doctors own summer cottages near the house. 

Buy Tickets to Westport, where guests w^ill be met with com- 
fortable carriages on receipt of telegram or letter 24 hours be- 
fore arrival. (State number of persons and quantity of bag- 
gage.) TERMS : Per week. *10 to *15. Per day, $2.50. Single 
meal, 7.5 cents. Special rates for the season on application. 
SOLOMON KELLEY, Prop., Keene Valley, ESSEX COUNTY, N. Y. 

New -r7TMTTAAZ\7<=^ WO\75=;^. 

KEENE VALLEY. NEW YORK. 

The best of beds, the best of fare. Telegraph office at post 
ofhce, close by. RATES, $2 per day ; $8 to $16 per week. Open 
June 1st to October Inth. Dining room enlarged. New Cot- 
tage connected with the house. Five Cottages to Let. Ac- 
commodations for 75 guests. Agent for rent or sale of Brook 
Knoll. 

GEO. ECCLEFIELD, PROPRIETOR. 

MARTIN BAHLER, A.M., PROP., 

Keene Valley, Essex Co., N. Y. 

Rates, $8 and 110 per week : $2 per day : full price for 
children over 5 years. No Infants. No Hebrews. Will re- 
ceive about 35 guests. Open latter part of .Tune. Conveyance 
sent to Westport upon request. Send for circular written by 
guests. Address, until June 16, Summit, N. J. 

261 



ADIRONDACKS. 

St. Huberts Inn, 

IN THE MOUNTAINS. 

AT THE HEAD OF ... . 

Beautiful Keene Valley. 

BEEDE & HOUGHTON, Proprietors, 

Beede's, Essex County, N. Y. 



Opens Jt^ily ist to October ist. 



Mail, Telephone, Livery and convenient Stage Service. 
Spacious rooms, open fire-places, steam heat, pure water and 
perfect drainage are all provided for. 



Wildwood Paths to Streams and "Waterfalls. Trails 

to the tops of Marcy, Skylight, Gothics, 

Colvin, Dix, Noonmark and 

the Giant. 



St. Huberts Cottage, 

OPENS UNDER SAME MANAGEMENT, JUNE 1. 



FOR PARTICULARS ADDRESS 

BEEDE & HOUGHTON, 

Beede's, Essex Co., N. Y. 

262 



I 



THE mwmi HOTEL 

A quiet hotel of the best class. Late dinners 
Music. White servants exclusively. Will remain 
open until October ist. Send for illustrated pamoh- 
let to i^ y 

WILLIARD LESTER, 
Manager. 



DR. S. E. STRONG'S MTIrIUM; 

AND SELECT FAMILY HOTEL, 

SARATOGA SPRINGS, N. Y. 

A popular summer resort. Open all the year Table and 

Niw m'VS,"''l^''^-'^;- ^'U^l ^^^* reme'dia? appHance" 
pfrw .^H S ^^^eption Hall, Hydraulic Elevator, Sun 
rarlor and Promenade on the roof. Illustrated circulars free 
on application. Address DJV S E STRONG 



* WAYSIDE Inn* 

AND COTTAGES, 
LAKEbdZERNE, N. Y. 

Saratoga on the Adirondack Railroad. Western Union Tele- 
graph in the house. The best of accomodations ; cuisine un- 

E. C. KING, Manager. 

26q 



lelaud house and (OTTACES, 

SCHROON LAKE, IS^. Y. 

THIS POPULAR HOUSE which contains first-class ac- 
comodations for 200 guests, open June 15 to October 1 Hotel 
^" grounds extend to the Lake on two sides, 

and are ornamented with trees, shrub- 
bery, summer houses, etc., Delightful 
location, Fine Scenery, High Elevation 
and Pure Water. Finest Boating, Bath- 
ing, Driving, Fishing and Hunting, in 
the Adirondacks. Carriage, Boat, Ex- 
press and Telegraph Office in the Hotel. 
Good Stables. 

The pleasure of rural and forest life 
are here combined with modern con- 
veniences and social privileges in a 
greater degree than in any other place 
in Northern New York. Terms, tran- 
sient per day, $3, $3 50 ; by the week, 
$12.50 to f25. Special arrangements for 
prolonged stay. 
Send for circulars and diagram. 
t, &, E. D. LOCKE, Proprietors. 

mrWTT: nniMT UHTT'sP' is delightfully situated on an elevated 
GROVE rUlJN 1 rlUUoL point washed on three sides by the 
waters of Plcturesflue Sehroon Lake, one-half mile south of Schroon Village, 
^nmmflndinff an extensive view of Lake and Mountains. The Steamer 
Fffi^Lham torches It the Hotel Wharf 6 times daily. Guests of the House 
hfvlthe nrwS of Hding to and from the village free. The rooms are good 
^7e wetl ventufted and furnished in antique oak. The beds have hair 
?;^att^slUai\ci woven wire springs . A broad piazza affording promenade 

^¥»Hf% K5.' !S!Tst.^fen^rS-?--U- Beau,o« Co. 
Fx-ogmore P. O., South Caroli na. 

aBTrondacks, 

AND 15 COTTAGES located on Schroon 




fft/LOR HOUSE 



L\KE, among the pines. Capacity 175 Guests. 
Electric Lights. Pure Spring VVater, all Saiii- 



tarv Arrangements complete. Amusements, Music tor Parlor Hops, Bd- 
liaVd Parlor, Bowling Alley, Lawn Tennis and Croquet grounds. Rates, 
rfso to $3 per day ; $U to tn per week. For full particulars and illus- 
trated circular, address 

C. F. TAYLOR «fc SON, Prop's. 

■* P. 0. TAYLORS-on-SCHROON, Warren Co., N. Y. 

264 



WnicH Rock Hotel 

HMD COTTHCeS, 

ON 3CMR00N LAI<in. 



Opens June 15. Closes October 1. 
GEO. CECIL, Owner and Proprietor. 

Adirondack, Warren Co., N. Y. 

POTTERSVILLE HOTEL 

FOOT OF SCHROON LAKE. 

Hunting and Fishing Resort. Dining place for Schroon Lake 

passengers. Rates tZ per day ; $7 to 110 per week. 

Special for the season. 

JOHN B.WELLS, - Proprietor. 

p. 0. ADDRESS, POTTERSVILLE, N. Y. 

CH^sra Hou$^. "a-v.downs, 

CHESTERTOWN, N. Y. 

OPEN ALL THE YEAR. High dry land. Pure air. Mountain 
Spring Water. Fine Drives and best bass fishing in the 
Adii'ondacks. A First-class Livery connected. TERMS, $- to 
12.50 per day ; $10 to 112 per week. 

265 



AHERICAN HOTEL, "^S^f^^^o^^^^fv. 

'**' JOHN IVIcINERNEY, Proprietor. 

Main Street, three minutes' walk from Adirondack Company's Depot. 
Refitted and furnished throughout in flrst-class style. 

BOARD $6 to $10 per week; meals 50c. Trout & Game in season. 

N. B.— A First Class Livery attached to the House. 

Parties wishing private conveyances to the wilderness, at reasonable 

prices, can be accommodated. 

Address, JOHN McINERNEY, North Creek, N.Y. 

NORTH RIVER HOTEL 

is on the Hudson River, 5 miles from the terminus of the Adirondack 
Railroad, at North Creek on the 

Direct Road to Blue flountain Lake, and is the regular 
dining place for passengers 

poing and coming. TELEGRAPH connection with the Western Union. 
Stages and patent Canopy-top Buckboards Carry guehts to and from all 
trains. 

KATES: Meals 75 cts ; $2.50 per day ; $10 to $15 per week. 

Buckboards run to this house on arrival of afternoon trains at North Creek 

and can be had for Blue Mountain Lake next morning. 

W. H. BOBLEK, Prop., P. 0. North River, Warren Co., N. T. 

BlUe IV|0lJNTAil4 LAKE HOaSE, 

JOHN G. HOI^I^AND Proprietor. 
BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE, HAMILTON CO., N. Y. 

Blue Moun ain Lake, the Gem of the Adirondack 
Lakes, is located in the heart of the Great "Wilderness, 
1,800 feet above tide. 

The New Blue Mountain Lake House is a large, durable 
structure, located on a dry sandy elevation 50 feet above the 
Lake, and with its outlying cottages, furnishes ample ac- 
commodations for four hundred guests. 

Everything new, cleanly, comfortable and home-like. 

Pure Mountain Spring Water, Perfect Drainage, Absolute 
freedom from malaria. Positively proof against all forms of 
Hay Fever. 

The surrounding scenery is a poem of beauty, and the pure, 
dry, invigorating atmosphere is Nature's Life-giving tonic. 
Table first-class in every respect. Vegetables and milk fresh 
from the hotel farm. 

OPEN PROM APRIL TO NOVEMBER. 
RATES, $3.00 Per Day. Per Week, According to Location of Rooms. 

Daily Mails. Telegraph office in the Hotel. Large Fire- 
places in Parlor and Office. Steamers leave Blue Mountain 
Lake House dock daily for all points. 

266 



BLUE t nOUNTflIN t H0U5E. 

TYLER M. MERWIN, PROPRIETOR. 

Is situated at the head of Blue Mountain Lake, on an ele- 
vation of 2oof''et above its surface and 140 rods distant. 

The view of the surrounding lakes and mountains from 
this point is unequalled in this section. TERMS, $10 to $15 
per week ; $2 to $2.50 per day. 

Open all the year. All communications should be ad- 
dressed to 

TYLER M. MERWIN, Blue Mountain Lake, Hamilton Co., N. Y. 

^~Be careful and address Blue Mountain House, instead 
of Blue Mountain Lake House. Telegraph in house. * 

" The /IKf leRS " ias" TriE HenilockS." 

SEASON OK 1893. 

Under the Management of C. H. BENNETT. 
The Antlers Opens Hay 1. The Hemlocks July 1. 

''The Antlers" is centrally located on one of the finest 
points on the Lake, and commands beautiful Mountain Views 
of the Surrounding Country. It is built on the colonization 
plan, having in connection several Cottages that can be rented 
entire or at the usual room rates. The table is the best that 
can be found in the woods. Boats and Guides in connection 
with the House. Wines served at table only. BOARD, $17.50 
to $2^ per week. For further information address, 

C. H. BENNETT, Raquette Lake, Hamilton Co., N. Y. 

"The Hemlocks" is situated on Long Point centrally 
between the South and East Bays of the Lake. The Hotel is 
on a bluff and commands one of the most picturesque views 
of the Lake. It has been newly furnished throughout in the 
best possible manner. Telegraph and Post Office within two 
minutes of Hotel. There are also several Cottages in connec- 
tion with the House that can be rented for the season. 
Boats and Guides in connection with the House. Wines 
served at table only. For further information address, 

C. H. BENNETT, Raquette Lake, Hamilton Co., N. Y. 

BRiCrif SIDE ON RAQaErrE,''^r?o?fo^;^^=' 

J. O. A. BRYERE, Proprietor. 

This house which has been enlnrged will be open in May. 
Terms, $12 to $18 per week ; $2 to $2.50 per day. The house "is 
built on the South Shore of Indian Point and commands a 
fine view of the surrounding Mountain Scenery. 

267 



' ^^ LONG LAKE. >,,^ 

(Replacing the house destroyed by fire in 1889.) 

Long Lake, Franklin Co., N. Y. 



ACGDMManATiaNS FDR 25D 
G-USSTS. n D D D 
oj!o<o DPEN ALL THE ^'EAR. d 

_ ^^ TELEGRAPH AND DAILY 

^^ MAILS, D D n D 

E. BUTLER, Proprietor. 



"THE NEW SAGAMORE," 

^ LONG LAKE. ^ 

268 



GROVE HOUSE, 



LOXG LAKE- 

N. 1. 

Located in a pine grove at junction of Blue Mt. and Raquette Lake h'oads, 
1 m. from South Pond, 3 12 nis. from Owl's Head Pond and Mountain. 
Good trail the conimgr season. Owl's Head Pond is best ti out fishing in the 
Adirondacks. Buttermilk Falls, two miles, good bass fishing. Pieiity of 
pickerel are here. Good deer, partiidge and duck shooting in season. 
Guides, boats, and carringes to and from trains at Noith C'l eek on applica- 
tion. Post office (Grove) in the house. Mails twice daily. BOARD, per day, 
$2.50: per $10 to $14 ; Dinner, 75 cents ; Supper or Breakfast, 50 cents. Open 
the entire year. 

DAVID G. HELMS, Proprietor. 



ADIRONDACK FORESTRY. 

A tract of nealy Um acres of 
unliniken forest on 

LONGLAKE 

THE HEART OF THE ADIRON- 
DACKS, with miles of beautiful 
shores, sandy beaches, bold 
points, sheltered coves and the 
magnificent forest Choice 
Camp and Villa Sites in 10 acre 
lots for sale, including Game 
and Forest privilege of the en- 
tire tract, at $500 a lot; a few of 
the best held at $1,000. 

Any of these lots may be 
leased for three or five years at 
$25 or S50 and taxes per year, 
with privilege of purchasing at 
at above prices at any time 
during lease. 

FORKED PINK CAMP to let for 

season. Roomy, rustic lodge, 

with big fire-place. Kitchen 

and dining - room separate. 

Landing, Beach, Spring — everything complete. Apply to Trustees, 

HAZARD STEVENS, 85 Devonshire Street, Boston, Mass. : OSCAR B. 

RELAND, Springrteld,Mass. ; GEORGE E. TERRY, Waterbury, Conn.; or 

M. R. SUTTON, Agent, Long Lake, Hamilton Co., N. Y. 




F. A. KIRK & CO., Photographers, 

And Publishers of ADIRONDACK AND AU SABLE CHASM VIEWS, Keeseville, N.Y. 

Portraits in all the popular styles and sizes made with greatest care. All 
Field Work, Views and Interiors promptly executed. 

Will be in Keene Valley, from July loth to August 1st. Beede's, from 
August 1st to August 10th. Lake Placid, from AugustlOthto September 10th. 

All orders proniptly filled and work done in any part of Adirondack re- 
gion. Correspondence solicited. CRAYOX WORK A SPECIALTY. 



269 



1893- THE 1893- 

Chateaugay Railroad 

BETWEEN 

Plattsburgh and Saranac Lake, 

The Short All-Rail Line to tlie 

Adirondack Mountains, 

IN CONNECTION WITH THE 

Dela^svare and Hudson R. R. 



THE ONLY LINE TO 

CHAZY, CHATEAUGAY AND SARANAC 
LAKES AND LAKE PLACID 

Which takes the traveler for nearly one hundred miles along 
the beautiful shores of Lake Champlain. 

Drawing Room Cars on all Trains. 

Wagner Palace Sleeping Cars on all Night Trains, and Wagner 
Drawing Room Cars on all Day Trains between 

NEW YORK AND PLATTSBURGH. 



Tickets, Sleeping and Drawing Room Car Accom- 

modations, and Baggage Cliecked from 

the Prominent Hotels. 



On and after July 15th trains of this line will be run through 
to Lake Placid without change over the new Saranac and 
Lake Placid Railroad. 



A. L. INMAN, M. L. FRENCH, Supt., 

Gen'l Manager. Plattsburgh, N. Y. 

270 




Xhe 

Delaware 
,9 & Hudson 
Raiload. 

The Leading Tourist Line of America. 
The SHORTEST and MOST PICTURESQUE route 

BETWEEN 

New Yoi'^ and MonfsriBal. 

THE ONLY DIRECT ROUTE TO 
Saratoga, Lake George^ Lake Cliantplain, 
Hotel Chamjjlautf Adirondack Moun- 
tains, Au Sable Chasm, Hound Lake, 
Hoive's Cave, Sharon Springs, 

Cooperstoivn, 
and the unique Gravity R, M, 

LOW PRICE EXCURSION TICKETS 

TO ALL THE FAMOUS LAKE AND MOUNTAIN RESORTS 

are on sale at the Company's offices in Albany, Troy 

and Saratoga during the season of pleasure travel. 

H.G.YOUNG, J. W. BURDICK, 

2d VIce-Prest., Albany, N. Y. General Passenger Agent. 

2-1 



PASSENGER RATES FROM NEW YORK 

VIA 

New York Central 

& 

Hudson River Railroad 

AND CONNECTING LINES. 

NOTE.— Through tickets to the following points are on sale 
at all New York Offices of the New York Central and Hudson 
River Railroad. Excursion tickets are issued at prices given 
in the column of figures under " And Return." 

For further information apply to George H. Daniels, 
General Passenger Agent, Grand Central Station, New 



York. 

And 
TO Return 

Albany $3.10 $6.00 

Au Sable Chasm. . 7.85 14.50 

Rogers' Station 8.60 15.85 

Blue Mountain Lake 8.95 17.00 

tBaldwin 6 70 12.65 

*Caldwell 5.55 10.30 

De Kalb Junction.. 8.61 

Elizabethtown 7.80 14.50 

Forked Lake 10.70 20.50 

Fort Ticonderoga.. 5.95 

Glens Falls. 4.80 8.80 

Gouveneur 8.21 

Lake Placid 9.80 17.75 

*Lake George 5.55 10.30 

Through and return 

via Ticonderoga.. 12.65 

Loon Lake 8.80 10.00 

Lake Luzerne (Had- 

ley) 4.86 8.80 



And 
TO Return 

Malone $9.60 

Montreal 10.00 17.50 

Via Lake George.11.50 19.00 

North Creek 5.94 11.00 

Northvilie 4.83 

Paul Smith's 9.P5 17.25 

Plattsburgh 8.00 14.75 

Port Kent 7.60 14.00 

Potsdam 9.21 

Raquette Lake 10.20 19 50 

Riverside 5.70 10.50 

Rome 5.30 

Rouse's Point 8 70 15.35 

Saratoga 4.20 .7.50 

Saranac Inn 9 05 16.75 

Saranac Lake 

(lower) 8.80 16 00 

Schroon Lake 7.45 14.00 

Troy 3.15 6.10 

Westport 6.81 12 45 



*During the season a Special Excursion Ticket i3 issued for 
$8.50, good on Saturday to Caldwell, and return folkDwing 
night. 

tDuring the season a Special Excursion Ticket is issued for 
■■$10, good for four days from date of purchase. 

272 



SUMMER HOMES 

Among the Green Hills of Vermont, and Along 
the Shores of Lake Champlain. 

AN ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF 148 PAGES, 

Prepared from a Canvass of the State bij a Sptcial Agent of the 

Central Vermont Railroad. 

Containing: tlie names, post office address, and prices per week, from Four 
to Ten Dollars, for the entertainment of summer boarders in a selected 
number of the best family homes in the above most favored locality of the 
north, for those seeking recreation, health and out-door amusements. AJso 
list of the best hotels, and number they can accommodate, with their rates; 
with 75 pages descriptive of tlie scenic attractions and natural beauties of 
the State, and a short sketch of each town along the line of the road. Also 
a list of Special Summer Excursion Rates to Vermont Points and Return. 
Copy sent free on application to 

T. H. H4NLEV, N. E. P. A., 260 Was>iin^ton St., Boston. 

Or to S. W. GUMMING!^, G. P. A.. C. V. R. R.. St. Albans, Vt. 




HAMFL AND Are you fond of 
unifii-i-niwi stones, pictures 
and items about birds, dogs, fishes, trees 
and Howers, rods and guns, landscapes, 
woodcraft, camp life, rural retreats and 
genera) natural history subjects? If 
so, subsciibe for Gameland, the gentle 
sportsman's magazine of shooting and 
fishing. It reaches 60,000 refined men 
and women, and is read by the house- 
hold. Yearly, one dollar ; postage free; 
no free copies. Address: 



GAMELAND, 1267 Broadway, New York. 

" DREW " or " DEAN RICHMOND," 

—OF THE— 

PEOPLE'S EVENING LINE, 

You will pnjoy all the comforts of ^roocl living. Tables sup- 
plied witli the best the markets afford. The excellence of the 
cuisine is a feature of this line. This is the tourisfs and 
pleasure seeker's route as well as the business man"s. A 
steamer leaves Albany for New York (every week day) 8 p. M. 
Leaves New York for Albanv (every week day) from Pier 41, 
N. R., foot Canal Street, 6 P. M. FARE. *1.50. ROUND 
TRIP, $2.50. 

M. B. WATERS, C. P. A. 



Through B lue Mountain, 
Eagle and Utowana Lakes, 



the Marion River and Ra= 



quette Lake. The most 

picturesque ro ute and best 
equipped line in the Adi= 
rondacks. : : : : : 



J. G. Thompson, shpt. 

inOBNTAlN I2AKE. 



274 



Lake Champlain Steamers 

SUMMER ARRANGEMENT. 

SEASON OF 1893. 

"VERMONT," Capt. B. J. Holt, 

will leave Plattsburgh at 7.00 A. m. ; Bluff Point (Catholic Sum 
mer School), 7.15 A. M.; Port Kent, 7.35 A. M. ; Burlington. 8.40 
A. m; Westport, 10.10 A. m. ; arriving at Fort Ticonderoga, 
12.15 p. M., connecting with trains for the South and Lake 
George ; returning, leave Fort Ticonderoga on arrival of 
trains from the South and Lake George, 1.30 p. m ; Westport, 
3.30 p. M. ; for Burlington, Port Kent, Bluff Point and Platts- 
burgh. BREAKFAST, DINNER AND SUPPER SERVED 
ON BOARD. 

" CHATEAUGAY," Capt. Baldwin, 

will leave Westport at 7.00 A. m., touching at Essex, Burling- 
ton, Port Kent, Bluff Point (Catholic Summer School), Platts- 
burgh, Gordon's and Adams', reaching North Hero 12.20 P. M.; 
returning, leave North Hero 12.20 p. M., touching as above, 
arrive at Westport 6.45 p. m 

MEAUS SERVED ON BOARD. 



Lake George Steamers. 

" HORICON," Capt. R. Arbuckle, 

will leave Caldwell on arrival of train from Saratoga and the 
South, 9.40 A. M., for way landings and Baldwin, connecting 
with train for Lake Champlain ; returning leave Baldwin 1.00 
p. M. for Caldwell and the South. 

"TICONDEROGA," Capt. E. S. Harris, 

leave Baldwin 7.30 A. m., for way landings and Caldwell, con- 
necting with train for Saratoga, Albany and New York ; 
leaves Caldwell on arrival of train 4.30 p. m. for Baldwin. 

MEALS SERVED ON BOARD. 

GEORGE RUSHLOW, General Manager. 
General Office : Burlington, Vt. 

275 



LEAVITT^STAGE LINE. ^fEtSi^Efi^l^-^^r''"^'' 



Proprietor, 




Leaves liivt-iside < n anival of all trains from the south. Returning leaves 
SchrOon Lalce to t'oniieot witli trains for Saratoera, Fare 81. New four and 
six-horse Concord coaches alTord a delightful ride through a picturesque 
region. 

Invalids or pnrtipn wishing easy carriasres or Special rigs of any kind, ean secure 
•ueii on reasonable terms by addressing at Pottersville. 



ADIRONDACK STAGE COMPANY, Limited. 

Stage and Buckboard Line Between 
North Creek and Blue Mountain Lake. 



Through R. R. Tickets are sold to and from Bine Mountain Lake and all 
principal R. R. Offices, and baggage checked through, and the Stage Go's. 
Agent boards all arriving trains in season to re-check baggage direct to 
hotels . 

Direct Express Service is Maintained to and from all Points in Con- 
nection WITH THE Adirondack and National Express Companies. 

Coach fares are as follows ; From North Creek to North River, 50c. ; to In- 
dian Lake (P. O.) .f 1.80; toCedar River Hotel, $2: to Blue Mountain Lake,$3. 
Applications for Buckhoard Carnages, time cards, etc., should be made by 
mail or telegraph to the Supt. Adirondack Stage Co. Line, at North Creek. 

The six and four-horse coaches are supplemented by a large number of 
very elegant Canopy Top Buckboarri Carriages, seating parties of 3 and 5 
which can be engaged at a reasonable additional charge. 



WALTER V. V. MARSH, Supt. 

276 



INSURANCE 

That Insures! 

A Policy absolutely without Restrictions ; 

A Policy with but One Condition, namely, the payment of 
premiums ; 

A Policy with a Month's Grace in premium payments and 
pard m full in case of death during the month of grace ; 

A Policy providing for Reinstatement within six months 
after lapse, if the insured is in good health ; 

A Policy automatically non-forfeiting after three annual 
premiums have been paid ; 

A Policy with Privilege of Cash Loans at 5 per cent, 
interest, five years after issue ; 

A Policy with Six Options in settlement at the end of 10, 
15 or 20 years ; 

A policy incontestable from any cause One 
Year after Issue ; — 

^ CHART'S THK 

ACCUMUILATIO:^ POILICY 

OF THE 

MM-WV XOKK ILIJFK 

INSUEANOE COMPANY. 

JOHN A. 3ICCALI., President. 

D. H. AYERS, 

AGENCY DIR&CTOR, 

TROY BRANCH OFFICE, 

Rooms 12 and 13 Union Bank Building, 

TROY, N. Y. 

277 



/^ 



I "Why, John, I never 



iJ 
J 
I 
J 
1 
I 
1 
J 
I 
I 
1 



knew that ' FOREST and STREAM ' 

was like this ! I had a notion it was a ' sporting' 
paper we wouldn't care anything about, and 
here I've read this 'Sportsman Tourist' page 
right through and marked half a dozen things 
to read when I get time." 

That is precisely what our friend's wife said 
when she had been looking at a copy of the 
"Forest and Stream" he had bought at the 
news-stand. 

If we could show 100,000 people this ver}- 
week just what " Forest and Stream" actually 
is, its army of regular readers would jump up 
by just that number. 

It is a clean, wholesome, bright, right-think- 
ing journal for clean, wholesome, bright, right- ^ 
thinking men — who find pleasure in shooting, 
fishing, woods-life and sailing. Its subjects are 
travel and adventure with rod and gun and 
canoe and pack-train ; field and forest shooting ; 
game fish and fishing ; natural history ; care of 
field and pet dogs ; canoe building and cruising ; 
3^acht designing and sailing. These are so broad 
and full of interest that it has no room for base 
ball, athletics or the turf. 

Ask your dealer for this week's copy, or send 
us 10 cents for it, or $4 for a year's subscription. 

Forest and Stream Publishing Co., 
318 Broadway, New York. 

278 



ilOTEL WnWDEEK 

AND eOTTAGES. 

(Upper Saranac Lake.) 

) 

'ost Office Address WawW, Fraiitljn Co , N. T, 
Season 1893, 

' JUNE 15th to OCTOBER 1st. 



Most attractive Hotel in the 
Adirondaeks. 

STBICTLY FIRST-CLASS. 

""*'^» ■ $4.00 per day. 

Harlow h. (hai^dler, 

nianacer. 

For description see page 87. 



■19 



Kodak Cameras 




"Kodak." r^^mpra The operation of making 

Bv the aid of the " Kodak a compieLe ^^^^^ 

?lkr.SSS?era?fSS*STn°tLestii scenes . 

be readily Obtained. _^ ^^ 

PRICES, $6.00 to $75.00. 

EASTMAN KODAK CO., 

ROCHESTER, N. Y. 

„ , Send for Catalo 

For sale by all Photo. Stock Dealers. 

280 



LBAblb 



r 



